The 43mm Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is a model released in the fall of 2021. Not only does it take its design inspiration from the pocket watches produced by Hamilton during World War II, but it also uses the Unitas (Cal. ETA 6498-1) movement, which has attracted a lot of interest from core enthusiasts. The new model we reviewed here uses bronze for the case, further enhancing its vintage feel.
Photographs & Text by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published on January 4, 2025]
New additions to the collection featuring vintage-inspired designs
The first scheduled airmail service in the United States began in 1918, between Washington and New York. Hamilton was chosen as the official watch of that service, and in the 1930s it became the official watch of four major American commercial airlines, and was later selected as the official timekeeper for transcontinental flights between New York and San Francisco. The Khaki Aviation collection of aviation watches demonstrates the brand's deep connection to aviation today.
Among the diverse models in this collection, the Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is a series that pays homage to Hamilton's history of aviation. All models in the lineup feature vintage-like designs, and the first 43mm model featured here was released in the fall of 2021. The second model, this bronze-cased model, was released in October 2025.
Manual-winding (Cal. ETA 6498-1). 17 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Bronze (diameter 43mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 239,800 yen (tax included).
The watch is equipped with a Unitas watch that will make any watch fan cry.
In fact, the day I was asked to write this impression was the first time I actually held the 43mm model in my hands. Coincidentally, I was wearing a 36mm Khaki Aviation that day, so the size difference was significant, but even so, the moment I laid eyes on it, I couldn't help but exclaim, "It's huge!" Its presence was so overwhelming. And no wonder, this model is equipped with the hand-wound Caliber ETA 6498-1. As my editor puts it, this is a Unitas that "all watch lovers will love!"
The Unitas movement was originally designed for pocket watches and first put into practical use in the 1960s. With a diameter of 36.6 mm, it is a little large for a wristwatch, but the reason this movement is still in use today, more than 50 years after its creation, is likely due to its high reliability, including its accuracy and durability.
The movement can be seen through the see-through case back. The bridge design, composed of straight lines, gives it a solid appearance, and the large balance wheel swings gently, which is also beautiful. When winding the crown, you can hear the sound of the mainspring winding up, and you can feel the sensation of touching an old watch, which is one of the great pleasures of this watch equipped with a Unitas movement.
A minimalist, high-quality dial that emphasizes legibility
As mentioned above, the inspiration for the design of this watch came from the Model 23 pocket watch, which Hamilton manufactured during World War II. This watch was a one-push chronograph primarily used by the U.S. military's air force at the time, and although its configuration differs slightly from this watch, with the hour and minute hands plus a small second at 6 o'clock, elements such as the index font, cathedral hands, and railway minute track are based on the Model 23, achieving the high visibility befitting an aviation watch.
Additionally, aviation watches typically have black dials that are less susceptible to sunlight. However, this model features a white dial, but it has a beige-like hue and a grained finish that combines fine irregularities with a matte texture on the surface, making it possible to read the time reliably even in sunlight. In fact, the slightly larger size and simple dial design without any unnecessary elements make it highly legible.
The 43mm case may seem large when viewed on its own, but when actually worn, it doesn't feel that large, even for someone with a thin wrist like me. In fact, this case size seems like it would be easy to balance with tops in the fall and winter seasons, when heavy clothing is more common, and conversely, it would add an accent to the wrist in the spring and summer, when lighter clothing is more common. This case size seems like it could be used regardless of the season.
Another element that makes this watch so appealing is the use of bronze for the case material. The subdued color blends well with skin tones and exudes just the right amount of elegance. Furthermore, bronze is a material known for its ability to change over time. Unfortunately, this impression only lasted about two weeks, so I wasn't able to see the changes over time, but it will be intriguing to see how this vintage-like watch will develop over time with continued use.
The vintage-like design is enhanced by a patina-finish calf leather strap that has a patinaed appearance that looks like it has aged over time. The watch I tried was in like-new condition, so the strap was still stiff, but I expect it will soften and develop a patina with use, enhancing the vintage look.
The appeal is Hamilton's signature vintage design
Khaki Aviation's designs, which are an adaptation of timepieces from the past, are exquisite, including this model, a 36mm military watch inspired by the "6BB" used by the Royal Air Force in the 1970s, and a hand-wound chronograph model. Moreover, this model is equipped with a Unitas movement, giving it the feel of a vintage watch, so it's no wonder it has been well-received by die-hard fans.
To be honest, I hadn't paid much attention to this model, and was more drawn to the hand-wound chronographs in the collection, but I'm leaning towards this 43mm Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer because of its vintage design and the feel of a mechanical watch. The 43mm Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is packed with elements that will captivate any watch lover.
