Rolex is quietly working to "reinvent the classics." The Perpetual 1908 with the Settimo bracelet, unveiled at the 2025 Watches & Wonders event, is a symbolic step in this direction. Crafted from solid yellow gold and featuring a newly designed seven-link bracelet, it replaces the Cellini bracelet and demonstrates that Rolex has once again added the word "elegance" to its lexicon. Daniela Push, Editor-in-Chief of WatchTime Germany, explains:
Text by Daniela Pusch
[Article published on January 6, 2025]
The next step towards Rolex's "classic elegance"
As expected, the new Land-Dweller collection took center stage at the 2025 Watches & Wonders event. But behind the scenes, Rolex quietly prepared another "surprise" that will live on in the memory for a long time.
In addition to this white dial model, the lineup also includes a model with a black dial and a Settimo bracelet. Automatic movement (Cal. 7140). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 66 hours. 18K yellow gold case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 5,273,400 yen (tax included).
This is the new variation of the Perpetual 1908 that was added to the collection in 2023. For the first time, it is now available with a solid yellow gold bracelet.
This isn't just a cosmetic change, but a quiet yet substantial shift that signals the next step in Rolex's expressiveness in materials and design. The name of this intricate bracelet is Settimo.
A spirit rooted in classics
The Perpetual 1908 was born as the unofficial successor to the discontinued Cellini collection, and in its short lifespan has established itself as Rolex's sensitive response to classic watchmaking.
A simple aesthetic
Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, thin line indexes, and a small seconds at 6 o'clock evoke the early Oyster Perpetual models of the 1930s, while also seeming to be a bridge to the future.
The words "Superlative Chronometer" arched above the small seconds dial shine as a subtle mark of quality, while the Breguet hour hand and sword minute hand, which change appearance depending on the angle of the light, give the impression of dancing lightly above the delicate minute scale.
Settimo upgrade
But what really takes this watch to the next level is the new bracelet: the Settimo, developed exclusively for this model, with seven slightly curved, offset links per row.
All links are mirror-finished, showcasing the precision of Rolex's craftsmanship. Its supple structure is reminiscent of a classic jewelry bracelet, yet exudes a modern flair.
It is worth noting that a slight gap has been intentionally left between the case and bracelet. This "non-integrated" design clearly indicates the direction of this watch as a classic dress watch, and sets it apart from the integrated designs of recent sports models.
The clasp also displays the thorough ingenuity that is characteristic of Rolex. The hidden crown clasp is designed to blend into the flow of the bracelet, with only the crown logo visible from the outside. The inside is polished to a high shine, giving it a jewel-like finish.
Ratios and Techniques
The case diameter is 39mm, and the basic design remains the same as the previous model. The 9.5mm thickness, the delicately engraved fluted bezel, and the short, slightly sloping lugs are perfectly balanced, making the watch surprisingly comfortable to wear.
The white lacquered dial is deliberately understated, providing a quiet stage for the rhythm of light created by the movement of the faceted hands.
The movement is the in-house automatic Cal. 7140. It beautifully combines cutting-edge technology with traditional finishing, including Côtes de Genève decoration, a yellow gold skeleton rotor, a Chronergy escapement, and a Syloxi hairspring. Its power reserve is approximately 66 hours. Its internal structure is the very definition of functional beauty.
For an exceptional experience
Of course, this sophistication comes at a price: the leather strap version is priced at 3,718,000 yen (including tax), while the Settimo bracelet version (Ref. 52508) is priced at 5,273,400 yen (including tax), a difference of nearly 2 million yen.
However, this price difference is not simply a matter of the weight of the gold. The appearance, the feel, and the overall finish of the watch all contribute to a truly exceptional experience. This watch is not just a variation of the leather-wrapped model, but a model with its own independent identity.
