Despite being at the mercy of turbulent times, one watch brand has stood firm and overcome the challenges with determination: Glashütte Original, located in Glashütte, Saxony, Germany. We trace its history and explore the brand's appeal today. The hope born in an abandoned mining town continues to shine even after 180 years.
This year marks the 180th anniversary of the birth of the watch industry in Glashütte, Saxony, Germany, and this new model has been released in a limited edition of 180 pieces worldwide. Its alluring aventurine glass dial is a testament to its charm. Automatic (Cal. 92-14). 39 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 100 hours. Pt case (diameter 40mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 180 pieces worldwide. Price: 5,522,000 yen (tax included).
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 19, 2025]
Is there a watch industry in Germany? The history of Glashütte
The watch industry once flourished in various regions, including France, the United Kingdom, the United States, Switzerland, and Japan. Each country's watch industry developed or declined in its own way, reflecting the national character of the country. Among them, the German watch industry was at the mercy of the turbulent times of World War II and the subsequent division of the country into East and West, but continued to resist these with strong will.
Today, Germany is home to many unique brands that produce everything from simple, sturdy tool watches to elegant dress watches, as well as models that exude functional beauty and incorporate Bauhaus design, but the road to getting there was by no means smooth.
The German clock industry developed in two parts, the east and the west. The western Black Forest region has a longer history. This region is covered with forests, and people made a living by making clocks from the wood. Even today, German mechanical clocks are known as a traditional craft that represents the Black Forest.
In contrast, the town of Glashütte in the Erzgebirge to the east developed thanks to the advent of portable watches. Glashütte was once a thriving silver mining town, but the depletion of silver caused the people to lose their livelihood. This is where Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange came into the picture. Originally crafting precision tools for silver mining, watchmaking, which requires dexterity, was likely suited to the people of Glashütte. On December 7, 1845, FA Lange opened his own watch workshop and devoted himself to watchmaking. Together with his apprentice Julius Assmann, his friend Moritz Grossmann, and his colleague Adolf Schneider, he developed watchmaking into a major industry in Glashütte.
In order to go beyond simply establishing a workshop and develop it into an industry, FA Lange undertook various initiatives. One of these was the introduction of the metric system. By designing and manufacturing watches using meters instead of the traditional unit of length, Lange was able to reduce tolerances (Editor's note: the range of allowable error from a standard size) and produce more precise watches. This precision was furthered by his invention of a special measuring device, the cann micrometer, which boasts an accuracy of 1/100 of a millimeter.
The German Watchmaking School Glashütte opened in 1878. It was a place where more specialized knowledge could be systematically learned through practical training, and helped to further solidify the watchmaking industry in Glashütte.
A good example of this solidity is the emergence of Alfred Helwig, known as the developer of the flying tourbillon. Until then, tourbillons had bridges on both the dial and movement sides to support the carriage. However, in 1920, he succeeded in holding it only on the dial side. It can be said that thanks to him, the tourbillon evolved into an even more aesthetically pleasing complication.
An event that dramatically changed their fate was Germany's defeat in World War II in 1945. Germany was divided into East and West, and the Glashütte watch industry was ordered to be dismantled by the Soviet occupying forces. However, craftsmen resumed watchmaking independently, relying on the few remaining molds and documents. This was tolerated by the Soviet occupying forces, and in 1951 Glashütte's watchmakers were consolidated and nationalized as VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetribe (GUB), paving the way for their continued existence.
As the economy of the German Democratic Republic worsened after the division of East and West, the craftsmen of Glashütte used their determination, imagination, and tenacity to develop the iconic GUB watch, the "Spezimatic," in 1964, thus succeeding in connecting the brand's history to the future. As the world's watches entered a period of transition from mechanical to quartz, GUB continued to produce mechanical watches alongside quartz watches, preserving the know-how of mechanical watches in the German Democratic Republic.
The 40-year period of decline came to an end with the fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9, 1989. However, this also meant that the GDR's industry was exposed to global competition. The company, which changed its name from VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe to Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe GmbH and registered its name in the commercial register in 1990, also found itself in a difficult position, being forced to sell real estate and brand rights and reduce employment.
As part of a restructuring effort, the company decided to preserve the traditions of the Glashütte watch industry and began using the brand name Glashütte Original in 1994. This name comes from the "Original Glashütte" quality mark established by the company in the 1920s.
Utilizing the watchmaking know-how passed down since the days of the German Democratic Republic, Glashütte Original developed watches featuring unique decorations and complex mechanisms, showcasing its inherent technical capabilities and culture to the world. However, this remarkable growth also highlighted the company's lack of craftsmen and weaknesses in its distribution channels. Nicolas G. Hayek, founder of the Swatch Group, stepped in to help. In 2000, Glashütte Original joined the Swatch Group, and began to attract attention from enthusiasts around the world.
What is Glashütte Original?
Glashütte and its watch industry have faced many hardships, starting with the depletion of silver, the order to dismantle the industry, the sudden nationalization, and the fierce competition that followed German reunification and privatization. However, the fact that many watch brands and craftsmen still exist in this small town today is likely due to their indomitable spirit, which has enabled them to overcome turbulent times. From here, we will take a closer look at Glashütte Original today, focusing on its manufacture, variations, and pricing.
マニュファクチュール
A manufacture is a manufacturer capable of integrated production, from individual components to the watch itself. Its counterpart is an établisseur, a horizontal division of labor that purchases parts and ébauche movements from component manufacturers or movement manufacturers that handle specific components, and then assembles them. Manufactures offer advantages in terms of freedom of design and function, as well as quality control, including precision in processing and assembly, but there are only a limited number of them worldwide. This is because a watch is a small precision machine, made up of hundreds of parts, and the manufacturing of each one requires advanced expertise and technology. When it comes to luxury watches, every part must be produced to an extremely high standard, and maintaining that standard is no easy task.
One of these manufacturers is Glashütte Original, which currently produces approximately 95% of its components in-house. During the time of FA Lange, horizontal division of labor was prominent, partly from the perspective of job creation and the development of local industries, but the integration into VEB Glashütte Uhrenbetribe coincidentally served as the catalyst for building the foundations for a manufacture.
The first thing that stands out is the movement, the heart of the watch. Everything from the design to the cutting and plating of the components, and even the hardening process to increase hardness, is done entirely in-house. What is most noteworthy is the finishing touches that incorporate the Glashütte style. The delicate striped decoration and chamfering on the three-quarter plate, the circular graining on the main plate, the gold chatons and blued screws, the intricately engraved balance cock, and the gracefully curved swan-neck regulator placed above it—all of these elements create an aesthetic that captivates the hearts of watch enthusiasts.
With today's advances in machining precision, gold chatons have little practical meaning, and the three-quarter plate would likely reduce assembly efficiency. However, these are important points that visually demonstrate that a tradition dating back to the days of FA Lange is still being carried on today. It is precisely because of this respect for the past that watchmakers are able to take such pains to approach watchmaking.
Of all the components of a watch, the dial is the one that is most often seen by the public. Glashütte Original manufactures its own dials, and is focusing on this area to the extent that it plans to open a new dial manufactory in the town of Glashütte in June 2025. The process consists of several steps.
First, a blank is cut out. The company uses materials such as German silver, bronze, brass, sterling silver, and solid gold, selecting the most suitable material for the model's characteristics and color. Then, using multiple machines, it undergoes milling, drilling, and surface treatment to create the holes for the hands and indices, as well as windows or recesses for the date display and subdials.
At this stage, the general shape is complete, but the finishing touches are added with galvanic processing and lacquering, which are carried out in a clean room. These processes add rich colors, and multiple pad printing processes are used to create a three-dimensional effect. For models that use applied indexes, each one is carefully attached to the dial by hand. A typical dial from the company goes through up to 75 steps to complete, with numerous inspections, including in between, ensuring the highest quality in the world.
Variations to reach a wide range of customers
The advantages of being a manufacture also contribute to Glashütte Original's creativity. Because they handle everything from design to manufacturing in-house, they are not bound by the convenience of suppliers and can realize designs that are full of their intentions down to the smallest detail. As a result, Glashütte Original currently offers five collections with a wide variety of styles: Senator, Pano, Specialist, Vintage, and Ladies'.
The Senator, known for its simple design, belongs to the category of classic, elegant watches. While based on standard three-hand models, the lineup also includes many models equipped with complex mechanisms such as panorama date, moon phase, chronograph, and regulator. While it is a practical watch that emphasizes visibility and readability, it also has artistic models such as the Senator Meissen, a collaboration with the German porcelain brand Meissen, which are attracting attention.
The Pano, with its imaginative dial and layout based on the golden ratio, could be called the face of Glashütte Original. The asymmetric dial features a power reserve indicator, panorama date, moon phase, and other displays in the margins, creating a poetic design. One of these, the PanoMatic Inverse, is a model born from a truly inverted concept, in which the movement is turned upside down and the three-quarter plate and engraved balance cock are sublimated into the dial design.
Meanwhile, Glashütte Original's depth of spirit can also be felt in its authentic specialist watches. The "SeaQ," launched in 2019, has its roots in the "Spezimatic RP TS200," one of the first German-made diver's watches, released by the brand in 1969 under the name GUB. While it's a genuine diver's watch featuring a dial with luminous Arabic numerals and bar indexes and a unidirectional rotating bezel that can measure dive time, the collection exudes elegance and a retro feel, highlighting the brand's signature chic.
The Vintage Collection is a modern reinterpretation of designs from the 1960s and 1970s, which overlap with the GUB era. The "Sixties," featuring a round case and distinctively elongated Arabic numerals, and the "Seventies," with its eye-catching nostalgic square case reminiscent of a TV screen, are watches that can be enjoyed with a fresh feel in the modern era.
There are also masterpieces in the ladies' collection. The Serenade Luna, with its clean, round case, sparkling dial, and wide range of colors, is a collection that brings a glamorous look to any woman's wrist.
Reasonable pricing
The selling prices of luxury watches have soared at an almost abnormal rate in recent years. There are several factors behind this, including rising labor and material costs and currency fluctuations, but the sense that luxury watches are gradually becoming less real and more like something out of a dream must have been a sad feeling for many enthusiasts.
If you feel this way, we recommend that you take a look at Glashütte Original. There aren't many brands, even in Switzerland, that have such a distinguished history, develop numerous complex mechanisms in-house, possess the technical capabilities to produce them consistently, and offer such a wide range of collections to suit your tastes. And yet, their signature models, such as the Senator Excellence and PanoReserve, are available for purchase starting from around 100 million yen.
What makes such reasonable pricing possible? First of all, it's likely that the company manufactures its movements and dials in-house, keeping unnecessary costs down. Another major factor is the company's membership in the Swatch Group, one of the world's largest watch conglomerates. The company has implemented new technologies backed by extensive R&D investments, improved production facilities and manufacturing methods, and accumulated know-how through the production of numerous watches. It also has suppliers of high-quality exterior parts within the group. These factors allow the company to sell its products at low prices while maintaining high quality. Of course, the worldwide sales network that Glashütte Original sought when it joined the Swatch Group also plays a role.
The price of a Glashütte Original watch is the result of the company's efforts to maintain the traditional craftsmanship while also leveraging the economies of scale of a large group to achieve efficient management.
The PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition shows Glashütte Original's current status
The PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition, a new model limited to 180 pieces worldwide commemorating the 180th anniversary of the company's founding, is a model that serves as a benchmark for understanding the company's current state. The PanoMaticLunar, which served as the base model, features an offset dial, a panorama date, and a moon phase.
The greatest highlight of this anniversary edition is the dial made of aventurine glass. Aventurine glass is said to have been accidentally created by glass artisans on the island of Murano in Venice, Italy in the 17th century. Due to its captivating deep blue color and sparkling particles, it is a highly aesthetic material that is also used for the dials of luxury watches.
There's a reason why this material was chosen for the anniversary edition. The history of watchmaking, and of course the Glashütte watch industry, began with "stargazing." In the past, understanding and observing the stars in the sky was essential to knowing the time and one's location. Eventually, watches with even greater reliability than stargazing were created, perhaps because the stars were the driving force that drove watchmakers to create "higher quality wristwatches." For this anniversary, Glashütte Original has used Aventurine glass, reminiscent of a starry sky, to pay tribute to the "Glashütte watchmakers who challenged themselves to reach the stars."
The dial of this watch is a true representation of the fantastic night sky. The gold indexes that shine like stars and the moon peeking through the moon phase at 2 o'clock will transport the owner's mind to the quiet darkness of the night. In addition to its poetic design, it is also noteworthy that aventurine glass, which is at high risk of cracking or chipping, has been subjected to advanced processing, such as cutting out small windows for the moon phase and panorama date and drilling holes for the hands and indexes. The benefit of in-house production also allows for greater freedom in the use of materials.
The silvery-white case, made of platinum, has a hard texture and matches the deep blue dial. At first glance, it appears to be a simple round shape, but the design, which combines polished and hairline finishes and incorporates sharpness into the curves, combines a sense of dignity and elegance that is typical of Germany. Platinum is harder than gold and is difficult to apply complex finishes to, so it is truly impressive that it can be used to create such a high-quality texture.
The see-through case back allows you to admire the in-house movement, which features Glashütte-style features such as a three-quarter plate and double swan-neck regulator. When it comes to appreciating the movement, manual winding tends to be preferred over automatic winding, where the rotor is completely hidden, but in the case of this watch, the rotor is housed within the three-quarter plate, allowing you to enjoy both the finish and the movement at the same time. While it has a classic look with a striking traditional finish, it also has modern specifications such as a long power reserve of approximately 100 hours and a silicon balance spring with excellent magnetic resistance, making it an attractive piece.
The PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition, which brings together Glashütte Original's technology from the dial to the case and movement, is truly a masterpiece worthy of celebrating 180 years of Glashütte's watchmaking industry.
