The editorial team of Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, covered the 2025 Watches & Wonders trade fair, a trade fair for new watch releases. This article, originally published in the magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we're looking at Patek Philippe, which has introduced a new watch with a clever package, which editor-in-chief Masamasa Hirota describes as "a sense of stability that is hard to find from other companies."
The Ref. 5370 is one of the models in the Patek Philippe collection that always tries new things with its enamel dials. This time, it features two tones and three layers on a single dial. As you'd expect given the price, the finish is outstanding. Manual winding (Cal. CHR 29-535 PS). 34 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18KG case (41mm diameter, 13.56mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
A Look Back at Patek Philippe's New Watches for 2025
Patek Philippe's current products are not only stable, but also stand out for their cohesive packaging and innovative designs. Their dials, in particular, are different from the so-called Métiers d'Art and aim for new expression. Some have said that their designs are too conventional and uninteresting, but this level of stability is hard to find in other companies.
The power of a long-established company is revealed in the clever packaging
My personal favorite W&WG watch is Patek Philippe's new clock. However, their other products were also impressive. A new addition to the Ref. 5370 is a two-tone enamel dial. The difficult feat of firing two colors of enamel as a single piece, rather than as separate components, was likely undertaken to reduce the thickness of the dial. The Ref. 5370 was originally released with a black enamel dial in 2015. While the case was designed to accommodate an enamel dial, making the subdials separate components would have increased the thickness. Therefore, we can assume that the technique of creating multiple layers on a single dial was adopted. As the photo shows, the surface distortion is extremely minimal, and the color is extremely vibrant. While not an obvious example of Métiers d'Art, this dial is a remarkable achievement.
A dress watch that fits the modern era. While it may seem like a different movement from the 5196, the thickness has been increased from 6.8mm to 9.33mm, adding a three-dimensional feel, and the lugs have been shortened for improved handling. It's an attempt to return to a more traditional dress watch from a thin model. The price is high, but it's understandable when you consider the features. Manual winding (Cal. 30-255PS). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Pt case (diameter 38mm, thickness 9.33mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
The 6196P is the successor to the Calatrava 5196. The case size has been increased by 1mm, and it is equipped with the newly designed caliber 30-255PS. While you might think that the only change is the position of the small seconds, the case has been deliberately thickened, emphasizing a three-dimensional feel in stark contrast to the flatness of the 5196. In addition, the lugs, which had been elongated to emphasize the thinness, have been shortened, making the watch slightly lighter. Personally, I think this is the most desirable Calatrava of the past few years.
The Cal. 28-20/REC 10J PS IRM, released in 2000, remains one of the company's masterpieces. This year, it was unveiled with a round case. It's not cheap, but considering what it offers, it's truly attractive. Automatic movement (Cal. 31505 8J PS IRM CI J). 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 192 hours. 18K white gold case (41mm diameter, 10.52mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
The masterpiece 6159 features a gray metallized sapphire crystal that darkens toward the periphery. This Patek Philippe-esque attempt at new expression combines quality and uniqueness to a high degree. Automatic movement (Cal. 26-330 S QR). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. 18K white gold case (39.5mm diameter, 11.49mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
What was surprising was the revival of the 8-day movement. The manual-winding movement in the 8-day Calatrava 5328 was made by reshaping the plate and bridges of the previous model and refinishing them into a rounded shape. I never expected that such a masterpiece that rivaled Parmigiani Fleurier's 8-day movement would be revived. Moreover, it retains its characteristics, such as the extremely deep chamfering and the delicate winding feel that is rare in current models.
And finally, there's the smaller CUBITUS. With a diameter reduced to 40mm from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, this model has a very well-rounded appearance. The smaller diameter improves the balance between the head and tail, making it feel even better on the wrist. Personally, I think the small CUBITUS is one of the most comfortable bracelet watches available today. Even if you're not a watch enthusiast who's troubled by the "Nautilus loss," this model is well worth having on your wrist. However, as is typical of Patek Philippe, it's not cheap and likely to be difficult to obtain.
A smaller version of this smash hit. It's quite heavy because it's made entirely of solid wood, but the balance between the head and tail is simply superb. Its actual size makes it appear quite compact. Automatic (Cal. 26 330 SC/434). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KRG case (40mm diameter from 10 to 4 o'clock, 8.5mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
This is the 18KWG version. When you put it on your wrist, it feels like a perfect dress watch. The bracelet, with just the right amount of clearance, also boasts a unique feel. Automatic winding (Cal. 26 330 SC /434). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KWG case (40mm diameter from 10 to 4 o'clock, 8.5mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
