The editorial team of Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, covered Watches & Wonders 2025, a trade fair for new watches in the watch industry. This article, originally published in the magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we will be focusing on the new models announced at the trade fair by Cartier, which has continued to improve the quality of its watches by in-house production of exterior components.
This year, the legendary Tank à Guiché was added to the Collection Privée. Focusing on the exterior, Cartier has succeeded in restoring the details of this masterpiece. Prioritizing the design, a thin crown was adopted, so it was decided not to make it waterproof. This is the only limited edition. Manual winding (Cal. 9755 MC). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Pt case (37.6mm x 24.8mm, 6mm thick). Not waterproof. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura, Ryotaro Horiuchi
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
A look back at Cartier's Watches & Wonders Geneva
Cartier is one of the most successful manufacturers in the watch industry over the past decade. They have significantly improved the quality of their watches by in-house manufacturing of exterior components, focused on iconic designs, and significantly reduced the defect rate. As a result, Cartier watches are now actively chosen by men as well. 2025 marks the culmination of Cartier's achievements to date.
The culmination of Cartier's 2025 collection
Cartier's in-house production efforts began with watch assembly and module design and manufacturing. Today, the company is one of Switzerland's leading manufacturers, handling not only movements but also cases and bracelets. However, the company did not make blind capital investments. Cartier transformed itself into a "first-class manufacture" with the goal of reducing its defect rate and speeding up product development. As evidenced by this, its product defect rate has fallen by one-third in recent years (according to a source, it's the second lowest in Switzerland), allowing it to effortlessly launch a variety of new products each year. While this has come at the expense of slowing the pace of in-house movement development, Cartier's current success proves that this decision was entirely justified. The new 2025 collection will be a culmination of Cartier's work to date.
The Santos-Dumont features three different dials. The motif is the story of the Santos. This model features a concentrically shaped base inspired by a propeller, with a very thin layer of plating. Manual winding (Cal. 430 MC). 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Pt case (46.6mm x 33.9mm, 7.5mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Limited production.
This watch has different specifications from the existing model. It appears to be a very shallow layer of lacquer on the baseplate, creating a gradation effect. This is likely a first in the watch industry. Hats off to the watch's ability to go beyond mere flashiness. Automatic movement (Cal. 9629 MC). 28,800 vph. Approximately 44-hour power reserve. 18K white gold case (43.5mm x 31.4mm, 8mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Limited to 150 pieces worldwide.
First up is the revival of the iconic Tank à Guiché. This model meticulously recreates the original exterior, and thanks to Cartier's proud production facilities, it boasts a level of perfection never before achieved. Cartier's efforts in color over the past few years have also evolved. Different color versions of the smash hit Santos-Dumont are meticulously crafted by changing the base treatment to match the color. The Santos-Dumont microrotor skeleton watch also employs a new style of application: a gradient lacquer applied not to the case but to the movement (!). Having revived the technique of embedding lacquer in the case, Cartier has now extended this to the movement as well.
The long-awaited Tank Louis Cartier is equipped with an automatic movement. Its sleek case is even sleeker than the must-have automatic, living up to its name. The dial, enhanced by pressing and lacquering, emphasizes its difference from existing models. Automatic movement (Cal. 1899 MC). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 18KPG case (38.1mm long x 27.75mm wide, 8.18mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use.
The first skeletonized version of the Tank Française. The movement is based on the existing Caliber 9611, but the balance wheel has been shifted and a small seconds hand has been added to emphasize the symmetry of the design. A masterpiece that demonstrates Cartier's current capabilities. Manually wound (Caliber 9630MC). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. 18KPG case (36.7mm long x 30.5mm wide, 9.2mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use.
This year, the long-awaited automatic movement was also added to the Tank Louis Cartier. It is powered by the small-diameter caliber 1899MC, which was first used in the Tank Américaine. The decision to first test it and then roll it out to a major model is a testament to the watchmaker's maturity. The stamping and lacquering technique cleverly adds a three-dimensional effect to the dial, in keeping with the slightly thicker case that comes with the automatic movement. Incidentally, Cartier also added an automatic version to the Tank Must in 22. However, the case size, at 41mm x 31mm, is somewhat large for the Tank Louis Cartier. It was wise to keep the size to 38.1mm x 27.75mm by using a smaller movement.
Cartier's signature Métiers d'Art watch has also become even more delicate. The Ronde Louis Cartier Panthère Métiers d'Art watch uses gold leaf. Layers of extremely thin gold leaves successfully create a three-dimensional effect on the thin dial. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier, which features a day/night indicator, also uses a metal-on-glass (MOP) dial that isn't backed with other materials. To achieve a soft, gradated blue, the colored metal-on-glass was thinly cut and layered. Personally, the Cartier watch that caught my eye the most this year was the women's Traces de Cartier. Its case, reminiscent of a Tank wrapped in a cocoon, is a bold attempt to reinvent a Cartier icon. Cartier, which has been working on reviving masterpieces, has finally achieved this level of boldness.
An unexpected gem. The new small model uses a quartz movement to emphasize its compactness. However, the balance of the design is almost identical to the men's model. While it may seem purely for women, it is actually a model with a wide appeal. Equipped with a quartz movement with an 8-year battery life. Quartz. Stainless steel x 18K yellow gold case (34.5mm x 27mm, 9.38mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use.
A reinterpretation of an icon. Viewed from the side, it appears as a bracelet, but it houses a rectangular watch reminiscent of the Tank. An attempt to combine jewelry and watchmaking. As the photo shows, the spiral motif has an almost perfect mirror finish. Quartz movement. 18K yellow gold case (56.2mm long x 25.7mm wide, 11.5mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use.
This is an attempt to emphasize the three-dimensionality of the dial by layering multiple thin layers of gold leaf. The ability to pull off an attempt that may seem reckless at first glance is typical of Cartier today. This is my favorite model in this year's Métiers d'Art series. Manual winding (Cal. 430 MC). 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 18K yellow gold case (diameter 36mm, thickness 9.2mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
This is the latest addition to the Ballon Bleu line, a day/night display model. The placement of the day/night display at the 10 o'clock position emphasizes the round design of the dial, and the blue mother-of-pearl is used to match the name "Blue Balloon." Automatic winding. Power reserve of approximately 39 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 36mm, thickness 12.11mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
Interview with Pierre Renero
In recent years, Cartier has been promoting shapes. At the same time, the company has maintained consistency in its creations. One of the key players in this is Pierre Renero, who is well versed in Cartier's history. When asked why Cartier has returned to shapes, he replied, "We're not returning to shapes. We've always worked with form. Form is at the heart of our innovation, and all our creations have a philosophy of shape. But because there have been various shapes since ancient times, different results are achieved." Renero speaks of shape as a philosophy.
Born in France in 1958. After earning a degree from the Paris Graduate School of Management, he joined Ogilvy & Mather. In 84, he joined Cartier as Director of Advertising. After serving as Marketing & Communications Director in Italy, he returned to Paris and served as Director of various departments. Since 2003, he has been in charge of Cartier's creative style as Image, Style & Heritage Director.
Cartier's designs are based on philosophy, grammar and vocabulary
"The philosophy is essential. Whether it's a Tank with a leather strap or a model with a bracelet, it's important that it's elegant. What's important is that it fits the wrist, whatever the model. That's elegance." But weren't the latest machine tools essential for reproducing classic masterpieces and creating new designs?
"No, I don't think so, because the machines are used for us. We at Cartier haven't changed at all. Rather, it's the journalists, the experts, the clients, etc. who have changed." So what does that mean?
"For example, in the past there were 'big, thick' watches. I think the word 'elegance' had an insulting meaning in those days. But things have changed now. It's not that Cartier has evolved or changed, but rather that the world has changed." He cited the example of change as men starting to wear mini Tank watches, for example.
"In the past, men were told not to dress in certain ways, but times have changed, and the younger generation in particular has become more free to enjoy their own style," explains Cartier, explaining why the brand offers multiple sizes.
"From the very beginning, we have always considered the beauty of the object rather than which gender it will be worn by. That's why we made the Tank available in a variety of sizes. It's a watch that anyone can wear." So how do you maintain consistency across such diverse designs?
"When designing, there is a philosophy first, then a grammar and a vocabulary. And we use the same grammar for all our models. One example is the wearing comfort. And the vocabulary is what colors to use, what manufacturing methods to choose, etc. But even if you have an idea, it's no good unless it's made with precision." He cited the new "Traceage de Cartier" as an example of philosophy, grammar, and vocabulary.
"It existed as jewelry in the 1930s, but not as a wristwatch. The Traces de Cartier watch announced this year is a new model that draws on the past."
