The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the watch industry's trade fair for new releases. This article, originally published in the magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we're focusing on IWC. We're discussing the new models, focusing on the Ingenieur, and interviewing Stefan Ihnen, head of the brand's R&D department.
This flagship watch is equipped with the Cal. 82110. The new ceramic finishing technique not only emphasizes the tool-like feel, but is also soft against the skin and less prone to showing fingerprints. While I understand the reasoning behind the difficulty in storing the inner case, it's a shame that they omitted the anti-magnetic case. Automatic (Cal. 82110). 22 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Black ceramic case (42mm diameter, 11.5mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar.
Photographs by Ryotaro Horiuchi
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
The 2025 Ingenieur puts "Form & Technique" at the forefront
This year, IWC focused on two pillars. The first was a collaboration with the film "F1." To commemorate IWC's sponsorship of the fictional F1 team, three new "Pilot's Watch Chronograph" models were added, with gold indices and hands. To be honest, there's nothing particularly new about them, but they're suitable for those who want a dressier pilot's watch.
A new 35mm size has been added. It is even lighter and thinner than the existing model, making it feel even more comfortable to wear than the 40mm. It is a very well-made practical watch, but a longer power reserve would be preferable. Automatic winding (Cal. 47110). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 35.1mm, thickness 9.4mm). Water resistant to 10 bar.
This is the 35mm 18KRG model. The bracelet width at the buckle side is only 13mm, but the balance between the head and tail is good, making it very comfortable to wear. The bracelet also has just the right amount of play. Automatic winding (Cal. 47110). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 35.1mm, thickness 9.4mm). Water resistant to 10 bar.
Another change is the full lineup of Ingenieur watches. This year, "Form & Technique" is at the forefront, with new sizes, mechanisms, and materials added. First of all, the ceramic version of the Ingenieur 42 is noteworthy. Given that the company specializes in this material, its adoption makes sense. However, this time, the watch's luminosity is reduced by adding grain and then applying a blasting process. The new perpetual calendar also features careful considerations, such as deliberately omitting a second hand to reduce thickness.
The most interesting technical feature is the "Big Pilot's Watch," which includes a shock absorber. Instead of rubber, BMG glass is used for the shock absorption. This is because it is "resistant to aging and has high dimensional accuracy." The escapement also uses diamond silicide, making this a truly ambitious piece.
A complicated watch with a technically crafted design, typical of IWC. The three subdials have been enlarged to their maximum extent to improve legibility, and the second hand has been deliberately omitted to reduce thickness. Equipped with the highly reliable 82 series movement. Automatic (Cal. 82600). 46 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41.6mm, thickness 13.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 5,625,400 yen (tax included).
This new model features "SPRIN-g Protect," developed in 2021. Thanks to its BMG glass buffer, it boasts magnetic resistance of 10,000 G/ms, twice that of previous models. Automatic winding (Cal. 32101). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Ceratanium case (diameter 44.0 mm, thickness 12.6 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.
Interview with Stefan Ihnen
Born in Switzerland in 1974, he received his training as a watchmaker in Oldenburg, Germany, before studying precision engineering at the University of Offenburg. He joined IWC in 2002 and worked on movement development until 2006. Since September 2006, he has been the head of the R&D department. His main movements include the automatic chronograph movement Cal. 89360. He currently wields his expertise not only in the internal components of the watches, but also in exterior development and the adoption of new materials.
This year, IWC launched the Ingenieur collection. Initially a modest boutique-only collection, this year they added a 35mm diameter model (including an 18K yellow gold model!) and their signature perpetual calendar.
IWC's skillful balance seen in the subtle refinements
At first glance, this may seem like an ordinary extension, but this is IWC, so it's anything but ordinary. Stefan Ihnen, head of development, recommends the Ingenieur 42 with its ceramic case. To avoid the excessive shine that is inherent in ceramics, this model employs a finish that is likely a first in the watch industry: a grained and then blasted finish. "With this finish, even a single grain of dust can be fatal. After several years of prototyping and testing, we've finally arrived at this finish."
Certainly, any dust that gets in will ruin the uniform finish. Additionally, the case structure is different from that of regular models.
"This time, we changed the structure to one where a ring is placed around the movement and it is fixed with screws from above and below." The reason for this is to make the case thinner. To fit the thick 82 series automatic movement, screwing it in would certainly increase the thickness.
"The diameter has been increased to 42mm, but it is well balanced compared to the 40mm stainless steel model." Unfortunately, the soft iron case has been omitted, but the excellent wearing comfort of the Ingenieur has certainly been further emphasized.
"For the Ingenieur's perpetual calendar, we repurposed an existing caliber used in the Portugieser and other models. However, in order to reduce the height by 0.5 mm, we deliberately removed the second hand. The reason for this was to make the case thinner."
Whether it's ceramics or a perpetual calendar, what stands out is the delicate balance.
However, IWC, the "technical company," has not neglected to innovate this year either. The Big Pilot's Watch Shock Absorber XPL "Toto Wolff X MERCEDES-AMG PETRONAS FORMULA ONE™ TEAM" is equipped with shock absorbers made from BMG glass. While some manufacturers use it for exterior parts, IWC is probably the first to use it as a spring.
"It's a material that offers the best protection and damping performance in the smallest volume. Given the extremely interesting elastic modulus and physical properties of this material, I honestly don't see why they wouldn't use BMG glass for the exterior. Moreover, it allows for greater processing precision than rubber, for example." IWC has also revised the O-rings added to the crown tube to further improve shock resistance. The escapement is made of Diamondsil, a diamond-treated silicon. So, does IWC have plans to use silicon balance springs in the future? At least, given the company's philosophy, it's hard to imagine them not adopting them. Ihnen quietly replied, "I think there's a chance. It's a good material, and it would be worth incorporating."
