The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the watch industry's new product exhibition. This article, originally published in the magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we're looking at Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose new models, from the Hybris to the Monoface, are all in the Reverso color scheme.
This is a modern version of the Reverso Geographic, released in 1998. The world time display on the second dial is a complete departure from the original design, now featuring an easily readable 24-hour disc. At the strong request of the design department, the globe-shaped medallion is made from the same material as the case. Lacquer is poured into 141 concave surfaces and then polished. The large date display added to the first dial utilizes the interlocking of two discs to reduce torque, with the disc in the ones digit moving the tens digit. Manual winding (Cal. 834). 18 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (49.4mm x 29.9mm, 11.14mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura, Ryotaro Horiuchi
Hiroyuki Suzuki and Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and text
Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki, Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
What are Jaeger-LeCoultre's new watches for 2025?
Jaeger-LeCoultre boldly exhibited all of their new models, including the hybrid series, as "Reverso." The common theme was a tribute to the 1990s, when they first began using inverted cases as a second display space. With Jérôme Lambert back as CEO, it seems the brand has become more ambitious in its R&D efforts, but even without those circumstances, this year's new lineup is a collection of excellent pieces that have been carefully crafted down to the smallest detail.
A tribute to the 1990s, when the "second dial" was born
Jaeger-LeCoultre began using the reverse of the Reverso's inverted case as a second dial with the Duoface, released in 1994. The widespread use of sapphire crystal meant that the original purpose of the inverted case, protecting the crystal, became less necessary. This year, new Reverso models that paid tribute to this era were a hit at the W&WG venue.
This duoface watch combines the same stainless steel case and black dial as the original Reverso from 1931. It's a surprising new piece that makes you wonder why it hasn't been seen before. The second dial is silver. It comes with a black leather strap designed by Casa Fagliano, as well as a bi-material leather and canvas strap. Manual-winding (Cal. 854). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (47mm x 28.3mm, 10.34mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
First up is the original Reverso Tribute Duo Small Seconds. It was released in two colors, black and blue, with a stainless steel case, but it's actually been quite a while since Jaeger-LeCoultre released a Reverso with a stainless steel and black dial. It's not widely known, but the second dial of the Duo has a split structure with a separate outer periphery, which allows access to the balance wheel when adjusting the movement without removing the hands on the second dial.
Although it may not stand out at first glance, the new Reverso Tribute Geographic features a rather complex case structure. The mechanism on the second dial side is a world timer, and a medallion depicting a globe is set in the center in lacquer champlevé. The 24-hour world time display is visible through the thin sapphire crystal, but this sapphire crystal is quite a complex piece. This part is not a ring-shaped part, and the back is also carefully crafted to ensure strength. However, since the Reverso case has a gentle curve on both sides, the sapphire crystal has a curved surface to follow this. Furthermore, there is a recess in the center to accommodate the medallion, making the shape more complex than it appears from the outside.
This is the only monoface model among this year's new Reverso models. The Milanese bracelet, woven from approximately 16 meters of gold wire, is combined with a crimp-type buckle, making it a one-size-fits-all model. Not only does it have a special attachment for fitting to the case, but the case itself has also been redesigned to make it a special edition. Manual winding (Cal. 822). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. 18KPG case (45.6mm long x 27.4mm wide, 7.56mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar.
The Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, the only new Monoface model, surprised everyone involved with its stunning Milanese bracelet. This bracelet supplier, who has a close relationship with Jaeger-LeCoultre, has long specialized in Milanese bracelets, making this latest release a much-anticipated development. Approximately 16 meters of gold wire is woven into each bracelet. While a standard Milanese bracelet is difficult to secure perfectly to the case, a fitting attachment specifically for the Reverso prevents this Milanese bracelet from shaking. Design changes have also been made to the case, making it even more elaborate than it appears.
This is a completely new duo-face minute repeater. The trebuchet hammer and cross-sectional shape of the gong were meticulously calculated to ensure that the gong would fit the square case, resulting in a gong that "resonates even in a square case." It also features a silent cut mechanism that eliminates the interval between quarter strikes before the 15th minute. Manual winding (Cal. 953). 72 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18KPG case (51.1mm x 31mm, 12.6mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 30 pieces worldwide.
One notable high complication is the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. It still uses a trebuchet hammer and crystal gongs, just like previous models, but because it's a square movement, the gongs don't vibrate evenly. The side struck by the hammer and the opposite side vibrate, but the perpendicular part connecting them doesn't vibrate. To address this issue, the shape of the trebuchet hammer has been redesigned to allow for a stronger strike with the same force, and the cross-sectional area has been varied depending on the location to ensure the gongs vibrate evenly.
This year's new releases may seem like a solid lineup, but they are surprisingly detailed and well-crafted.
This is an Artistica version based on the so-called "Gyrotourbillon 4." The basic structure, such as the semicircular balance spring, is the same, but the bridge has been changed to gold to add polished lacquer to the bridge. Manual winding (Cal. 179). 46 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18KWG case (51.1mm long x 31mm wide, 13.63mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 10 pieces worldwide.
This enamel-decorated version of the Nonantième, released in 2021, features a second dial featuring a digital semi-jumping hour display and a disc-type minute display, featuring a night sky scene crafted in Grand Feu champlevé. Manual-winding (Cal. 826). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 18KPG case (49.4mm x 29.9mm, 11.72mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 90 pieces worldwide.
Interview with Jerome Lambert
Jérôme Lambert has returned to the position of CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. As the direct descendant of the late Günter Blümlein, his return to the company will be welcome news for many watch enthusiasts.
Our goal is not to surpass other brands, but to transcend ourselves.
Born in Switzerland in 1969. After graduating from the ESG Management School, he studied at the Swiss Graduate School of Public Administration. After working for a Swiss postal service, he joined Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1996 and became CEO in 2002. He later served as CEO of Montblanc and Chairman of A. Lange & Söhne, before becoming a director of the Richemont Group in 2017. He served as Group CEO from 2018 to 2024. He then became COO of the group, and will return to the role of CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre in January 2025.
"Our goal is not to change the brand, but to nurture it," Lambert says, "or, more precisely, to grande d'ir, or grow it. Jaeger-LeCoultre is a highly creative watchmaking house, and our ambition is to grow it around that creativity and evolution." He has built upon the company's long tradition.
"With 192 years of tradition, we truly stand on the shoulders of giants. In this long history, we were one of the first manufactures, and today we are one of the few that continue to produce watches in-house from A to Z," he adds, pointing out the importance of the codes established by Blümlein. "We have strict rules established by Blümlein. The most important of these is one movement per case. This means that we need to have many dedicated movements available. Ultimately, we must remain a true manufacture."
And Jaeger-LeCoultre is bringing a much more elaborate expression to its products than ever before.
"As information has spread, people's understanding of watches has deepened. This has allowed us to better express the essence of watches in our products. At the same time, I feel that fewer people are coming into contact with in-depth knowledge. Our mission is to convey and share knowledge and to inspire passion for the Maison."
This is probably why he returned to promote Jaeger-LeCoultre. Lambert seems to have absolute confidence in the manufacturing approach of Jaeger-LeCoultre, which he himself has nurtured.
"Our design philosophy is very strict and our standards are high. The important thing is not to surpass other brands, but to surpass ourselves every day. We are always striving for self-transcendence." Lambert also pointed out improvements to the texture of the exterior.
"A watch is an aesthetic entity, but it also changes with the body over time. For example, a lacquered metal case is made possible through technological advances. The evolution of such details allows for a purer expression of creativity in watchmaking."
At the end of the interview, Lambert gave us a sneak peek at some upcoming models, and it's clear that under his leadership, Jaeger-LeCoultre is sure to take things even further.
