The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the trade fair for new watches in the watch industry. This article, originally published in the magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we look back at the new watches from Vacheron Constantin, celebrating its 270th anniversary.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura, Ryotaro Horiuchi
Hiroyuki Suzuki and Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and text
Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki, Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Vacheron Constantin's New Watches for 2025
It features a new movement that pays homage to the Saint-Gervais (with tourbillon and perpetual calendar) released for the 250th anniversary in 2005. Its direct base is the Cal. 2160 (automatic tourbillon with peripheral rotor) released in 2018, on which a perpetual calendar module has been added. Automatic winding (Cal. 2162 QP/270). 30 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 42mm, thickness 11.1mm). Limited to 127 pieces worldwide.
Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 270th anniversary with a unified dial design created by its in-house design team. In addition to the geometric design inspired by the Maltese cross, the anniversary model's movement also incorporates the "Côtes Unique" finish, which was recreated from an old piece. In addition to the technical advantages exemplified by the masterpiece "Les Cabinotiers," the details are also meticulous.
Overwhelming technology and detailed work on display at the 270th anniversary
Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary. On the W&WG stage, the brand proudly unveiled two masterpieces in addition to a number of 270th-anniversary models unified by a special design code based on the Maltese cross. First up was the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première –, which was previewed in the previous issue. Not only is this grand complication combining a tourbillon, a minute repeater with a Westminster carillon, and a split-seconds hand, it's also a celestial watch with four functions related to the sun's orbit and a star chart on the case back. What's new is that the star chart and split-seconds hand are positioned in the same place, making it possible to track the movement of specific stars. While we'll leave the details of the mechanism to another article, this model is this year's technical highlight.
This is one of the "Traditional Open Face" trilogy, combining an openwork dial design with a retrograde mechanism. It features a 170-degree retrograde date on the top of the dial, along with sapphire discs displaying the day, month, and leap year. Automatic winding (Cal. 2460 QPR31/270). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 40 hours. Pt case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.94mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 370 pieces worldwide.
The complete calendar allows you to enjoy the openwork dial even more. The discs for the day and month are offset toward 12 o'clock, creating a larger opening. The area hiding the moon disc is also frosted and transparent. Automatic winding (Cal. 2460 QCL/270). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Pt case (diameter 41mm, thickness 11.05mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 370 pieces worldwide.
The highlight as an art piece, on the other hand, is the trilogy "Homage to the Tour de l'Ile," also released by Les Cabinotiers. Each piece depicts the clock tower that stands on the Quai de l'Ile in Geneva's old town, using miniature engraving, enamel miniature painting, and a combination of figurative guilloché and enamel miniature painting. The case is a hunter back, and the hands are particularly beautifully crafted. While the company prefers to use consciously flat hour and minute hands, the hands in this piece are hand-polished and sensual.
Now, finally, the main focus of this year's collection is the 270th anniversary models. They range from high complications to two-hand models for women, but all feature a special dial shaped like a Maltese cross. The geometric design was created by the in-house team and is finished with intricate straight guilloching.
This 270th anniversary model combines a retrograde pointer date with a moon phase display. The dial features the same design as the other models, but the Patrimony model is embossed. Automatic (Cal. 2460 R 31L/270). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18KPG case (42.5mm diameter, 9.7mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 270 pieces worldwide.
The geometric patterns on the "Patrimony" and "Traditional" models are embossed, but pressing a curved surface is also a difficult technique. The ladies' "Traditional" model features a MOP dial, and adding machine engraving to this is the company's first attempt.
Another attempt at the 270th anniversary model is the unique movement decoration applied to the three "Traditional Open Face" models. Large arc-shaped lines are engraved using wrapping film on the surfaces of several adjacent bridges of equal height (sometimes in two layers). All bridges are handcrafted in two strokes, and the continuity of the adjacent lines is a major attraction. The company calls this "Côte Unique," but it is not a new name; it is a designation that was used in the 1920s.
The Traditional model with a small seconds hand is the best way to enjoy the geometric pattern inspired by the Maltese cross. To celebrate the next 100 years, only 370 pieces have been produced. Manual winding (Cal. 4400 AS/270). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Pt case (diameter 38mm, thickness 7.77mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 370 pieces worldwide.
If you want to enjoy the three-dimensionality of the commemorative dial, the three-hand Patrimony is your best choice. The embossing adds a softer nuance to the shadows, adding to its appeal. Automatic movement (Cal. 2450Q6/270). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18K white gold case (40mm diameter, 8.65mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 370 pieces worldwide.
This is because the technique originated from one that the company's restoration department rediscovered when they reproduced the "American 1921 Unique Piece" in 2021. Like the original intention of the Côtes de Genève, it is thought that this was a method of assembling the ebauche parts of the time, which were not very precise, and then aligning the height by machining the surface (which creates continuity in the machining marks), but for this 270th anniversary model, the bridge itself was decorated before assembly. If this is the case, then the precision of modern processing technology and the skilled hand-finishing are all the more astounding.
Interview with Sandrine Donguay
Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary this year. It is Sandrine Donguay, Director of Product Marketing and Innovation, who has brought exquisite decoration and detail to the classic collection, including the unique Solaria piece.
Born in France, he graduated from the Grenoble Ecole des Managements (GEM) and worked for a perfume manufacturer before joining Baume & Mercier. After serving as Director of Marketing and Communications, he transferred to Vacheron Constantin. He was appointed Director of Product and Marketing, and will oversee these departments as well as the Métiers d'Art department from 2022. Unusually for someone with a marketing background, he also has extensive knowledge of products.
The talent that brought extraordinary design to the 270th anniversary model
"From a design perspective, this time we have based it on tradition, but added a modern touch and a playful spirit. We have incorporated the Maltese cross, which has been the symbol of the Maison since 1880, into the dial. And the Côtes Unique. What is also important is that each model is individually numbered in engraving. This is both traditional and a modern attempt. And the details." What was surprising was the finish of the dial. The dial, which graphically reproduces the Maltese cross, is embossed for the basic model, while the high-end model is hand-guilloched, with different dials used depending on the price. Although embossing is an extremely unusual attempt for the company, the finish is at least comparable to guilloched.
"The embossing on the dial may be a relatively new technique in Switzerland, but we pursued perfection. If there's one thing that sets us apart from other companies in terms of design, it's the exterior. This time, we set ourselves a challenge. We started with a design sketch and gradually built up a series of prototypes to reach the final product," she explains. "The evolution of this was driven by our former CEO. He revised many things, and one of them was to give each model something that stands out." The unique coated finish on the movement bridge is also interesting.
"The technique of applying serrations to the entire surface is a design that I discovered when we reproduced the 36mm model made in 1921. It was a design that existed until the 70s." What is typical of Vacheron Constantin is that all the bridges are not finished as a single piece, but rather as individual components. This increases the level of perfection, but makes it more difficult to achieve a uniform serration pattern.
"It's done by one craftsman. The finish on each bridge needs to be perfectly consistent, so the setting is done for each movement. It took me about 500 hours to master and apply it," she says casually, but this meticulousness is what makes Vacheron Constantin so special. What's more, the movement is not rhodium-plated, but rather nickel-plated, a nostalgic finish. "The reason is that it creates a better contrast in the finish. We tried rhodium, but it didn't have the depth."
However, no matter which model you look at, the quality of the design, which is not influenced by the details, is something quite unique. "The Maison is elegant, but also playful. The design must be timeless while incorporating a modern element. Fortunately, we have artisans and designers working together, which allows for a wide range of creativity."
