I've picked out five of the new diver's watches for 2025 that I personally feel are particularly outstanding. All of them are new additions to popular collections, and are impressive pieces that incorporate the latest technology from each company.
Text by Shinichi Sato
[Article published on January 4, 2025]
Introducing 5 outstanding watches from the highly competitive "diver's watch" market
Diving watches, with their high water resistance and bezels that measure dive time, have been a popular genre for many years, with many iconic models. Reflecting their popularity, each brand introduces new models incorporating the latest technology every year, creating a truly competitive market. From this competitive market, we bring you a selection of the best new diver watches for 2025.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
First up is Omega's Seamaster Planet Ocean, which was updated to its fourth generation in 2025. It's impossible to leave out any model bearing the name "Seamaster" from this selection of masterpieces. The Seamaster Planet Ocean, which first appeared in 2005, is a high-spec watch with an extremely high water resistance of 600m and an appealing design with a strong stoic tool watch feel.
Automatic winding (Cal. 8912). 39 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. SS x Ti case (diameter 42 mm, thickness 13.79 mm). 600m water resistant. 1,309,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Omega Tel. 0570-000087
What struck me most about this complete overhaul was the shift from the previous model's massive, curved image to a more edgy, firm look. This difference is particularly evident in the bracelet design, where the previous model was rounded and accentuated by its unevenness, but this model has a straight, flat design. Furthermore, a polished section has been added to the center as an accent. The case is also notable for its edgy design, short lugs, and crown guard.
Additionally, the crown-shaped helium escape valve previously located at 10 o'clock has been removed. While the loss of this iconic feature may be met with mixed reactions, it is likely to improve handling.
The 42mm case diameter is the same as the previous model, but the thickness is now 13.79mm, more than 2mm thinner. Combined with the shorter lugs, it may now fit even those who previously found the watch too large. Be sure to pay attention to this when trying it on in the store.
Blancpain "Fifty Fathoms Automatic"
One event not to be forgotten this year is the addition of a smaller 38mm case diameter model to Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms. We selected this model for its buzzworthy nature and high level of perfection. The Fifty Fathoms is popular for its historical background as the ancestor of modern diver's watches, its highly reliable movement, and its aesthetically pleasing case. For a long time, the lineup mainly consisted of 45mm case diameter models, but in 2024 a 42mm case diameter model was introduced, broadening the range of choices.
Automatic winding (Cal. 1150). 28 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 100 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38.2 mm, thickness 12 mm). Water resistant to 30 bar. 2,706,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Blancpain Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7233
A new option has been added: a new 38mm case. The styling maintains the design codes of the previous model, such as the unidirectional rotating bezel covered with sapphire crystal, the rounded case, and the polished finish. For those who were hesitant about the size of the Fifty Fathoms, this 38mm model will be good news.
The only difference from the previous model is the dial finish. While the 45mm model had a combination of different finishes on the center and periphery, the 38mm model has a simpler finish, giving it a more tool watch feel.
The featured watch is a representative piece of the collection, with a stainless steel exterior, black dial, and bracelet. It's also available with sail canvas straps, rubber straps, and NATO straps, making it a popular choice.
Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 40
Another model we'd like to highlight from the perspective of diver's watches available in a variety of case sizes is the Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 40, which was revamped this year. In addition to this 40mm case, three other sizes are available: 44mm and 42mm, allowing you to coordinate it with your wrist size and fashion style.
Automatic winding (Cal. B31). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 78 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40 mm). 200m water resistant. 902,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707
This latest update incorporates the charm of the original model released in 1957. The watch retains the arrow-shaped hour hand, spear-shaped minute hand, and unidirectional rotating bezel from the original Ref. 1004, creating a classic feel. Meanwhile, the dial and case finish, as well as the intricate engravings around the bezel, are modern, harmonizing the classic feel with the high level of refinement that Breitling has achieved in recent years.
The classically designed watch is equipped with the latest generation automatic movement, Cal. B31, which will debut in March 2025. It is based on Breitling's signature automatic chronograph movement, Cal. 01, and its development concept is to focus on time display while improving its basic performance and reliability.
Its basic performance is exemplified by its 78-hour power reserve and COSC certification, both of which meet modern standards. It also comes with a five-year warranty, providing peace of mind for users.
The one we picked out is a green model. Breitling has a lineup of green models in each collection, and adjusts the color tone depending on the collection, making it a great choice for their use of green. This model has a chic feel with subdued saturation and a slight grayish tint, making it a color that can be used in all seasons.
Tudor Pelagos Ultra
Among Tudor's highly acclaimed lineup, the Pelagos collection is filled with highly refined models for professionals. Adding a model with an appealing name like "Ultra" to the collection is a must-have. The Pelagos Ultra lives up to its name with an extremely high water resistance of 1000m.
Automatic winding (Cal. MT5612-U). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Ti case (diameter 43 mm, thickness 14.5 mm). 1000m water resistant. 839,300 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Rolex Japan / Tudor Tel. 0120-929-570
With a case diameter of 43mm and a thickness of 14.5mm, it cannot be called compact, but considering the specs, it should be rated as "quite reasonable." The case is made of a lightweight combination of titanium alloy and pure titanium, and combined with the Pelagos's comfortable format, it is expected to provide an excellent wearing experience. The dial is larger than the previous model, with thicker hands and larger indexes, further improving the already high visibility. The bezel is also wide, making it easy to measure time in combination with the dial.
The titanium bracelet features Tudor's exclusive "T-fit" folding clasp, which allows for tool-free fine-tuning of the fit. Additionally, the clasp features a visual indicator with a luminous marker, allowing you to check the bracelet's setting even in the dark. Tudor's commitment to steadily making small improvements to enhance the watch's wearability and usability is admirable.
Furthermore, this watch is equipped with the Cal. MT5612-U movement, a Master Chronometer certified by METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology). It is inspected before shipping for various criteria, including maintaining accuracy even when exposed to a 15,000 gauss magnetic field and ensuring minimal fluctuations in accuracy due to the remaining power reserve. Its practicality is at the pinnacle of modern standards. This is a masterpiece worthy of the "Ultra" name.
Seiko Prospex "Marinemaster Professional" Ref.SBDX067
Our final selection is from the limited edition models celebrating Seiko Divers' 60th anniversary: the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional Ref. SBDX067. The Marinemaster is positioned as the high-end line of Seiko Prospex, featuring models with high water resistance, reliability, and excellent exterior quality. The Ref. SBDX067 is more than just a commemorative model; it is the new flagship of the Marinemaster line. Its unique features include a one-piece titanium case that is water resistant to 600m for saturation diving, and the newly developed mechanical movement, Cal. 8L45.
Automatic movement (Cal. 8L45). 35 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Ti case (diameter 45.4 mm, thickness 16.0 mm). 600m saturation diving water resistance. Limited to 600 pieces worldwide (200 in Japan). 715,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012
Most saturation diving models feature an escape valve to release helium gas that may enter the case during saturation diving. However, Seiko has traditionally avoided this and instead ensured performance through case structure and seals that prevent helium gas from entering. This model also features a newly designed titanium case based on the same design philosophy, achieving a large yet lightweight feel. The Cal. 8L45 movement has been redesigned, including improvements to the mainspring shape, and through rigorous precision adjustments, it achieves a power reserve of approximately 72 hours and accuracy of +10 to -5 seconds per day.
The blue dial of this special model is inspired by the mysterious world of the deep sea, where time lingers, and features a wave pattern embossed to represent the deep sea world that only professional divers can see.
As a testament to the high level of perfection of this watch, it was awarded the "2025 Good Design Best 100," which recognizes products that are overall excellent within the Good Design Awards. In addition to the special dial design, the silhouette of the titanium case, which does not have a helium escape valve, was highly praised for its aesthetic appeal.
