As soon as they released their first product in 2019, the independent microbrand "NAOYA HIDA & Co." quickly became the envy of watch enthusiasts. Their watchmaking has been highly praised overseas, and their popularity continues to grow. So how has NAOYA HIDA & Co. been able to establish such a unique production system? And what direction will they take from here? We delve into the core of this question.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Nabata Politics: Interview and text
Text by Masaharu Nabata
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
A mechanical watch that no one has ever seen before, combining classic elements with modern technology
In 1990, when luxury mechanical watches were showing signs of a full-scale revival, Naoya Hida, the founder of NAOYA HIDA & Co., decided to make his dream come true by switching careers to the watch industry. He has worked in a wide range of roles, from PR to marketing and new product development, at import agencies and local Japanese subsidiaries of famous Swiss watch manufacturers.
The motif is a mechanical watch from the 1930s to 60s, known as the "Golden Age of Wristwatches." However, these are not simple reproductions or replicas; they inherit classic mechanisms and designs while combining the sharp shapes achieved with cutting-edge micromachining machines that are only possible today with the handwork of skilled craftsmen to create a new form of luxury mechanical watch that "no one has ever seen before." So, what process goes into creating these watches? We asked Chief Watchmaker Kosuke Fujita.
"We meet once a month to exchange ideas about what to make next. Of course, since we are a company that makes the watches that Naoya Tobita wants to make, his wishes are important, but the first step is for each staff member to exchange their opinions. For example, our first rectangular model, the NH TYPE 5A, which will be released in 2024, originated from a proposal to create a square model, which was released in 2022. First, I create the basic layout of the movement on my computer, and then I ask Tobita about his wishes regarding the design of the bridges and the position of the small seconds. We then exchange opinions on any areas that need adjustment, and with Tobita's final judgment, we begin working on the prototype," says Fujita.
It's interesting that it's not something that Tobita decides on his own, but rather starts with a consensus. This is surely why models that capture the hearts of watch enthusiasts are born.
"It's precisely because we're so close that we can exchange opinions like this. After all, we've been working together for 14 years, so Tobita, Kano (Keisuke), and I all pretty much understand what each of us is thinking," says Fujita.
Once the basic design is complete, the next step is to create a mockup using a 3D printer. Previously, this was outsourced and took about a month, but now, using an in-house printer, a mockup can be completed in 10 to 20 minutes.
"The shape is rough, but by creating the movement, we can get a sense of the size. Once that's done, the next step is the exterior. Tobita's hand-drawn sketch is refined in detail on the computer, and a mockup is also created using a 3D printer," says Fujita.
Currently, two young watchmakers work under Fujita. One of them was inspired to pursue watchmaking as his main career after making a mechanical watch for a school festival during his student days. He currently mainly works on assembly, but is also involved in blue steel finishing of the hands and designing new products.
"I've known for a while that he wanted to design watches, so I've entrusted him with the new designs for next season and he's getting to experience making a watch together with Tobita," says Fujita.
It was quite bold to entrust the design to a young staff member who had only been with the company for a few years, but the person in question also seemed to find the task rewarding, saying, "The design for next season's new product is 7% complete. We have already confirmed that it works, but there are still many areas that need to be worked out."
Although it is precisely because it is a small manufacturer, the way the founding members and younger employees work together to develop new products seems ideal for a watch manufacturer.
NAOYA HIDA & Co. expands its production system
In Naoya Tobita's watchmaking, the dial and the engraving on it are just as important as the movement. This is because none of NAOYA HIDA & Co.'s dials are printed, and all are hand-engraved by a master engraver using a micro-machining machine.
The chief engraver in charge of this is Keisuke Kano. His job involves outsourcing the process of carving the dial base, which is then sandblasted in-house and then engraved with a laser. The indexes are then hand-engraved, and cashew paint is poured in to highlight the logo, indexes, and scale, ensuring high visibility.
A young engraver is currently training under Kano. He previously learned Japanese engraving, which involves hammering a chisel, at a jewelry school, but now, under Kano's guidance, he is practicing engraving the alphabet.
"I have them imitate my style and practice Western carving. That's the first step," says Kano.
Just like the watchmaker, plans are being made for this young engraver to also be able to take part in production from next season.
NAOYA HIDA & Co. has now grown to a production staff of five, and is steadily receiving orders for new works.
"We created a roadmap when we first founded the company, but in reality, many things have been realized ahead of schedule. In fact, when we first showed prototypes to people in the watch industry, they said that a selling price of 70 yen would be impossible, and even 40 yen would be difficult, but once we released it, it was well received. Furthermore, at first we were just hoping to sell overseas, but now overseas is by far the largest market. Just as Grand Seiko is popular overseas, a trend has emerged in the global market that high-end watches made in Japan are good. If this had happened 10 years ago, it would have been completely different," says Tobita.
NAOYA HIDA & Co. is planning to relocate its office in 2026.
"Simply put, it's because we've become too cramped. Currently, our company rents two floors of a building, with one floor used as a design and assembly workshop and the other for customer service and a reference room. We also have machine tools located in a separate location, but we're thinking of consolidating these into one building to improve work efficiency and smoother communication between staff. The location is Asakusabashi, which has excellent transportation access and is close to our current company, so it will be easy for customers to visit. In our next building, we'll have machine tools on the first floor, the manufacturing department on the second floor, and administration on the third floor, establishing a system where all operations can be carried out in one place. This will enable us to manufacture prototype parts in-house, which we previously outsourced, and dramatically speed up development. Of course, we'll remain a microbrand, but we want to make the things we want to make while we still have the chance," says Tobita.
To date, NAOYA HIDA & Co. has released six models, excluding variations, starting with the "NH TYPE 1B" in 2019 and ending with the "NH TYPE 6A" in 2025. In fact, Mr. Tobita has over 70 models in mind that he wants to create, so he urgently needs to establish a production system to make them a reality as soon as possible. Their watchmaking will no doubt continue to delight us watch enthusiasts.
