Chopard LUC Limited Collection Reinterprets "Japanese Beauty"

Inspirations from Japan - Artistic Crafts in Time was created based on the relationship between Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Japan that he has built up over 40 years. Each of these limited edition masterpieces reflects the spirituality and worldview of traditional Japanese crafts, performing arts, and bushido. This exhibition unravels the hidden fusion of "Japanese chic" and advanced technology.

Swiss insight into Japanese elegance

　When I talk to people from overseas who have visited Japan, I am often reminded of how ignorant I am about Japanese culture and traditional crafts. For example, while "JAPAN" in capital letters refers to the country of Japan, "japan" in lowercase refers to lacquerware. Apparently, pianos are black because when pianos first began to be made in Japan, the wood-grain finishes that are common in the West could not withstand the strong humidity, so lacquer was used instead. Later, overseas audiences appreciated the beauty of lacquer and its ability to highlight the performer, and "piano = black" became the standard. So, we are ignorant of Japanese culture.

　When I came face to face with the recently announced limited edition Chopard LUC, I was reminded of this. Its origins lie in Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele's deep respect and insight into Japanese culture and spirituality. Scheufele has visited Japan regularly for over 40 years, where he encountered traditional Japanese crafts, and he became fascinated by the Japanese culture and spirituality that elevates everyday items to the level of art.

　For example, three pieces in the "LUC Quattro Spirit" collection feature motifs selected by Scheufele based on symbols of Japanese culture. One of these, "Samurai Last Stand," depicts a torn fan in gold against a background of jet-black Grand Feu enamel fired at high temperatures. The torn fan, which retains its central core even when torn, represents the determination of a samurai who continues to fight despite injuries, and symbolizes the indomitable spirit of facing adversity.

　These three watches are equipped with the manual-wound jumping hour caliber LUC 98.06-L, developed by Chopard Manufacture. While jumping hour mechanisms typically require a lot of energy to instantly rotate the hour disc, Chopard's unique Quattro technology, with four barrels stacked in series, ensures a long power reserve of approximately eight days. Furthermore, because it's a jumping hour mechanism, only the minute hand moves on the dial, providing a wide canvas for movement, creating an outstanding configuration.

　The Japanese sword is a symbol of this Japanese spirituality. The LUC XP Japanese Sword is a homage to the traditional techniques of swordsmithing, and the dial is made of Damascus steel, which is forged by layering different metals, inspired by the blade pattern that originated from the tamahagane steel used in Japanese swords. Crafted by artisans at the Corsel blacksmith workshop in Neuchâtel who have mastered Japanese forging techniques over decades, the sword is forged with 120 to 160 layers of steel that are layered and sharpened to create a pattern reminiscent of the blade pattern and flickering flames.

　However, Scheufele's deep insight into Japanese culture extends beyond bushido. This is exemplified by the LUC XP Sakura by Night. Inspired by the kimono worn by the courtesan Matsuyama Tayu in the 1774 kabuki play "Ninin Wankyu," the piece pays homage to the Japanese scene of admiring cherry blossoms at night, a symbol of fleeting beauty. The background is delicately guilloched and coated with translucent lacquer. Encrusted, three-dimensional mother-of-pearl cherry blossoms and gold openwork cherry blossoms are scattered across the background, with diamonds set in the center to create a sense of depth and volume.

　The unique "LUC Full Strike Spirit of the Warrior" is an incredible piece in terms of three-dimensional design. The dial features a mask modeled after the "menpo" (face covering) worn by samurai warriors, dancing butterflies, the bezel features a design evoking the "odoshi" (power) symbol for protecting the torso, and between the lugs is engraved the figure of an oni (demon) guarding the samurai. This beauty of design is also reflected in the minute repeater LUC 08.01-L, which features engraved wave patterns and lion-dog (guardian dog) designs on the bridge.

　The highlight of this special edition is the "LUC XP Lacquer Ukiyo-e," a maki-e reproduction of "Ejiri Tagonoura Outline Map of the Tokaido," one of Katsushika Hokusai's "Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji." The dial was created by master lacquer craftsman Koizumi Sankyo in collaboration with Yamada Heiando, a long-established lacquerware shop and official supplier to the Imperial Household Agency. The dial beautifully expresses Scheufele's high aesthetic standards and delicate details, emanating from a sincere and profound spirituality. This model is powered by the caliber LUC 96.41-L, a successor to Chopard's first in-house movement, introduced in 1996. A 22K ethical gold micro-rotor efficiently stores power in two barrels, this movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 65 hours despite its slim design, ensuring stable accuracy over long periods of time.

　The strong ties that Mr. Scheufele and Chopard have built with Japan over the years have undoubtedly led to the creation of this magnificent collection, which embodies the essence of watchmaking through the combination of motifs that strongly reflect Japanese spirituality, the traditional craftsmanship that embodies them, and the advanced watchmaking skills of Chopard Manufacture.