The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the trade fair for new watch releases. This article, originally published in our magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This article looks back at the new watches launched by Bulgari, which participated in the trade fair for the first time. It also includes an interview with Jean-Christophe Babin, who was appointed head of LVMH's watch division this year.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura, Ryotaro Horiuchi
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
The 10th ultra-thin model celebrates the trade fair's arrival
This flying tourbillon, with its tungsten alloy case back/baseplate, has set the world's 10th record for thinness. The bracelet is just 1.5mm thick. Not only is it skeletonized, but the hour and minute hands are also combined to enhance its practicality as a watch. Manual winding (Cal. BVF 900). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Ti and tungsten carbide case (40mm diameter, 1.85mm thick). Limited to 20 pieces worldwide.
Bvlgari made its long-awaited appearance at Watches & Wonders. Furthermore, just before the show, CEO Jean-Christophe Babin was appointed head of the LVMH watch division, creating a festive atmosphere at the Bvlgari booth. Perhaps not to celebrate the appointment, Bvlgari released the world's thinnest tourbillon, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Its case is a whopping 1.85mm thick. What's more, it boasts an openworked movement, making it an ambitious design. Typically, with such ultra-thin watches, parts are removed as little as possible to maintain rigidity. The company's bold move reflects its pioneering spirit.
The Finissimo has been completely restored to its original solid state. Note how the edges are sharp despite the entire watch being completely blasted. It's a simple finish, but one that no other manufacturer could match. Automatic movement (Cal. BVL138). 31 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 18K yellow gold case (diameter 40mm, thickness 6.4mm). Water resistant to 100m.
The Eight Days features a skeletonized movement. However, the weight has been reduced and the indexes and hands have been changed to a gold finish to improve legibility. It's a typical Bulgari attempt to combine thinness with practicality. Manual winding (Cal. BVL199SK). 33 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 192 hours. Ti + DLC case (40mm diameter, 5.95mm thick). Water resistant to 30m.
Additionally, the hour and minute hands, which were separate on the Octo Finissimo Ultra, have been combined into one. This increases the thickness, but Bulgari has also improved the watch's level of perfection. I would also like to mention other models. The Octo Finissimo, which even has a gold bracelet, and the Serpenti, for example, have an exterior that is more polished than ever before. Bulgari tends to have a more masculine image, but it is impressive that they have improved the perfection of their jewelry.
This is a model released in 2023, but with different materials. As the name "Three Golds" suggests, the entire watch is adorned with 18KRG, YG, and WG. Like the previous model, the bracelet features 172 jewels, the case 44, and the dial 262. The case is polished to a high standard, as shown in the photos. The bracelet, which also features a built-in spring, also has a comfortable feel. Quartz movement. 35mm diameter. 9.3mm thick. 30m water resistance.
Bvlgari's current strengths lie in mirror-finishing, and this piece highlights that. The simple design, reminiscent of a bracelet, is combined with a folding buckle. The extremely tapered elements are a testament to the brand's confidence in the finish. The extraordinary finish is as shown in the photo. Quartz movement. 18KPG case (wrist size S: 145mm, L: 155mm).
Interview with Jean-Christophe Babin
Jean-Christophe Babin turned 66 this year. In the personnel changes prior to Watches & Wonders, he was appointed CEO of Bulgari and now oversees the entire watch division of the LVMH Group. Babin frankly admits that this was a bit of a surprise, but honestly, there's no one better suited to oversee the watch division of the group, which is full of unique CEOs. Furthermore, the small women's automatic watch that will be featured in the Serpenti this year will be supplied to other LVMH companies in the future.
There are no limits to elegance or finissimo
Born in France in 1959, he earned an MBA from business school and worked at P&G and a consulting firm before becoming CEO of TAG Heuer, where he grew the company's business. In 2013, he became CEO of the Bulgari Group, where he significantly increased Bulgari's presence in the world of watches and jewelry by improving the quality of its interiors and exteriors and launching iconic models. In recognition of his exceptional skills, he has also served as head of the LVMH Watch Division since April 2025.
"The Serpenti was originally inspired by the Victorian era concept of jewelry that gives time. Some women may want quartz in steel case models, but our goal is to make more women's watches mechanical. Competing brands also use mechanical movements for women, and considering the price range and presence of Serpenti, it should be mechanical rather than quartz." This was made possible by the know-how gained from more than 10 years of developing thin and small movements.
"Our experience is alive in this movement, so it's not just that the diameter is small, but we've also reduced the overall volume, including the thickness, to the absolute minimum. It's the same as the Finissimo." However, it seems that the company, which has added practicality to thin watches, didn't just create a small movement.
"The movement's power reserve of approximately 50 hours is a major advantage. Modern women multitask every day, juggling both work and home. For them, it is extremely important that their watch never stops. Also, with a mechanical watch, even if the mainspring unwinds and the watch stops, it can be restarted immediately, and if it is adjusted regularly, it is very reliable."
For this reason, he says, he deliberately adopted a conservative design this time.
"The important thing about a movement is not its thickness but its volume. If this is kept to a minimum, it can be made to look thinner and fit into a smaller diameter." As proof of this, the automatic winding mechanism is a simple one-sided winding mechanism, and the rotor is relatively flat.
He showed us his 10th world record, the Octo Finissimo. Just when we thought he'd given up on the slimmest competition, he returned this year with the ultimate in slimness.
"Octo Finissimo is an attempt to allow men to experience the elegance that we have offered to women through a watch. In other words, in terms of conquering elegance, there is no limit to how thin the Finissimo can be. And for us, Ultra is a collection within a collection. So there are no limits."
Bvlgari, a world-renowned high jeweler, continues to release astonishing mechanical watches. As long as elegance exists, Bvlgari's "conquest" will never cease.
