A look back at Hermès' unique new 2025 models, including the "Watch That Makes You Forget Time"

The editorial team of Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the watch industry's new product exhibition. This article, originally published in our magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. In this article, we take a look back at the Hermès 2025 models, which Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota describes as "refinedly unwavering."

The lightness of the Maison, which exudes presence while remaining true to its "identity"

　2025 will be a difficult year for all companies, and many of the new products reflect this market situation. However, as always, Hermès remains unwaveringly unwavering. This year, the company launched the "Tenchouspondieu," a watch that moves the hour and minute hands to 12 o'clock when you press the button at 9 o'clock, and also hides the date hand. Although it may be a coincidence, it is very much like Hermès to revive a "watch that makes you forget time" at a time like this. Three models of the "Arceaux" and three models of the "Cut" are available. However, reflecting Hermès' maturity, the watches have evolved into something completely different.

　A good example would be the dial. The dial has a slightly roughened lacquer finish and incorporates a lightly tinted sapphire to show off the movement. What's more, the minute indices every five minutes are actually separate parts. Hermès' approach to color is also typical. Since its founding, the company has developed 75,000 unique colors, and they have used them on the Teint Supondeux. This year's trade fair was filled with serious models, but Hermès' presence, which distinguished itself with a lighthearted mechanism and color, stood out in the crowd.

Interview with Laurent Dordet

　Last year, Hermès surprised watch enthusiasts with its high-beat central tourbillon. This year, they've made a complete turn and introduced the "Tenchouspondieu." This is a watch that makes you lose track of time, hiding the time and date displays when you press the push button at 9 o'clock. It goes without saying that it's a masterpiece, but why did Hermès release this model this year? Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger, explains the reason.

The Tanchspondu is a model that embodies Hermès' philosophy of time.

"I joined the watch department at Hermès 10 years ago. At the time, I thought this was the embodiment of Hermès' philosophy of time, which is to express time for yourself and time to share with the important people in front of you. However, I felt it was a shame that such a wonderful watch was not being promoted enough," he said. He spoke with creative director Philippe Dellotal about creating this model again, and this year, he finally released a reinterpreted version. The biggest difference is the movement.

"The movement of the first model was somewhat industrial, so I thought it would be better to reinterpret it with a more authentic movement. However, even if we used a manufacture movement, it would be the same as the first model, and there would be no point in just releasing a different size. After that, we were able to complete the complications and we were ready to make a fresh start." Indeed, the Teintespondieu watches look the same, but the finish is very different.

"The dial has also changed considerably. The center is skeletonized, and the brown coloring and sandblasting process give it a more visually spectacular look than the previous classic white dial. As with the 'Cut,' we've also reflected the Hermès style in the details, such as adjusting the position of the crown and push buttons to match the new case shape. The watch is clearly more refined than before, but I believe the understated, unobtrusive quality remains the same as ever."

　But what's interesting is Hermes' stance on watchmaking: the maison has no compulsion to create new products every year.

"There are customers who want jewelry watches with a new approach, like this year's Maillon Libre watch, so I think it's necessary to make new proposals for them. However, there's not much pressure to release a new product every year. Over the next few years, it would be nice to be able to propose one or two new products every year." Hermès has skillfully balanced unique creativity with management. This unhurried stance could also be said to be characteristic of the company.

"We believe that we must never lose our lightness and surprise." As Hermès matures and expands its business, it is returning to its true essence. This year, too, its bold stance of launching the "Tenchouspondue" is refreshingly clean.