We will introduce five new complication watches released in 2025. This year, various companies have released new models packed with astonishingly exquisite craftsmanship. Let's take a look at the fruits of the efforts of craftsmen who continue to hone their skills and push the limits.
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 9, 2025]
The evolution of timepieces continues with these masterpieces that showcase exceptional craftsmanship
New wristwatches are released every year. Among them are models with completely new designs, models with cases made from new materials, and color variations on existing models, but the ones that attract the most attention are mechanical complication watches. Using the unwinding force of the mainspring, gears and levers are used to create unexpected movements. Complication watches, which bring together the wisdom of engineers, are a genre that piques the intellectual curiosity of watch enthusiasts.
What's particularly interesting is that new developments appear almost every year. It's not uncommon for a mechanism that was thought to have been pushed to its limits to be further improved a few years later. With basic technology now mature, even entry-level watches have sufficient basic specifications such as shock resistance, magnetic resistance, and water resistance. It's no exaggeration to say that wristwatches have almost reached their peak as practical items. This is why complication watches offer the thrill of experiencing the constant evolution of watches. They may not be easily within reach, but they are filled with dreams and romance.
Audemars Piguet "Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar" Ref. 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01
This model is equipped with a newly developed perpetual calendar movement, which can be operated entirely with the crown. The exterior coloring is unified in sand gold. Automatic winding (Cal. 7138). 41 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18K sand gold case (diameter 41mm, thickness 9.5mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price inquiries required. (Inquiries) Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000
To celebrate its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has unveiled a groundbreaking perpetual calendar watch equipped with a newly developed movement. Its distinctive feature is that all calendar adjustments can be completed with a single crown. Many perpetual calendar watches have pushers or correctors on the side of the case, which are used in conjunction with the crown to adjust the calendar. However, this can lead to concerns, such as a loss of aesthetic appeal to the case and the need for a pin to depress the corrector. This model successfully overcomes these issues with a crown with four positions.
The case and bracelet are crafted from 18K sand gold, featuring a soft, brushed and polished finish. The dial, in the same color, features the Royal Oak's signature Grande Tapisserie pattern. The calendar is highly legible, with black indices and hands indicating each display. A realistic moon phase display shines at the 6 o'clock position.
Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5308G-001
This Grand Complication watch is now available as a regular model. The split-second chronograph features two unique patents. Automatic (Cal. R CHR 27 PS QI). 67 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 18K White Gold case (42mm diameter, 17.71mm thick). Not waterproof. Price: 198,230,000 yen (tax included). For inquiries, please contact the Patek Philippe Japan Information Center at 03-3255-8109.
This grand complication watch features a minute repeater, split-second chronograph, and a jumping perpetual calendar with a small aperture display. The split-second chronograph incorporates a patented clutch system using the LIGA process and electroforming, as well as a split-second hand lever isolation mechanism that contributes to stable operation of the movement.
The chronograph is a one-push mechanism. The button at 2 o'clock can be used to start, stop, and reset the time. The button at 4 o'clock is used for the split-seconds function. Pressing it while the chronograph is running stops the split-seconds hand, and pressing it again allows it to catch up with the leading chronograph hand. The slide button at 9 o'clock can be used to start the minute repeater.
The dial is an ice blue with a soleil finish, a refined and cool color that harmonizes with the 18K white gold case. The case back is available in either a see-through style with a sapphire crystal or a solid case back, and can be interchanged.
Blancpain Grand Double Sonnerie
The most complicated watch in Blancpain's history. It can play two melodies using four gongs. Manual winding (Cal. 15GSQ). 67 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. 18KRG or 18KWG case (diameter 47.0mm, thickness 14.5mm). Water resistant to 10m. Two watches per year. (Inquiries) Blancpain Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7233
Equipped with a grand sonnerie, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, and retrograde perpetual calendar, this is Blancpain's most complicated wristwatch to date. It features four gongs that can play four notes (Mi, So, Fa, Si) and reproduce the chimes of Westminster and the song "Blancpain," written by Eric Singer, drummer for the rock band KISS.
To enhance the acoustic effect, this watch is equipped with two unique mechanisms: one is a magnetic silent regulator that eliminates noise and ensures stable operation, and the other is a bezel incorporating a gold acoustic membrane.
The movement of each complication can be seen through the openwork dial and see-through back. The case, which features Blancpain's signature double-step bezel, is made of 18K gold. The side of the case is equipped with a push button and a slider for switching the melody played.
Van Cleef & Arpels "Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automata Watch" Ref. VCARPERV00
A new model equipped with a romantic automaton mechanism. Set in Paris, France, late at night, you can enjoy a scene of a man and woman softly kissing. Automatic winding. Power reserve of approximately 36 hours. 18K white gold case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m. 2772 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Van Cleef & Arpels Le Desk Tel. 0120-10-1906
Automata Watch is a sequel to "Pont des Amoureux," which was released in 2010. The animation begins at midnight and midnight, with the man and woman in the center pulling their bodies together and gently kissing.
The backgrounds, which utilize techniques such as grisaille enamel, are also packed with craftsmanship, including fantastical clouds, Guinguettes, a riverside cafe where people could enjoy dancing that was popular in Paris in the 19th century, and cobblestones. Animations can also be activated on demand with the push of a button.
The time is displayed on a double retrograde dial: the hours are displayed from 10 to 12 o'clock, and the minutes are displayed from 12 to 2 o'clock, and can be read by the position of the stars.
The case is crafted from 18K white gold. The bezel, lugs, and crown are set with diamonds. The case back is engraved with a dancing man and woman and a Parisian streetscape, allowing you to enjoy the three-dimensional finish.
The watch is fitted with a shiny blue alligator strap and an 18K white gold pin buckle.
Otsuka Lowtec "No. 9"
A complication watch equipped with a jumping hour, rewinding minute, tourbillon, hour-striking, and power reserve indicator. The design motif is an electric meter. Manual winding (Cal. SSGT). 30 jewels + 5 ball bearings. 18,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel case (48mm long x 30mm wide, 13mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. 17.6 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Otsuka Low-Tech https://otsuka-lotec.com
Otsuka Low-Tech, a Japanese micro-brand that continues to make rapid progress, has released its new "No. 9" watch, a complication model based on an electricity meter. The tightly packed case is equipped with various mechanisms.
The time is displayed by a jumping hour and a rewinding minute indicator, which rotates on a transparent disc and returns to zero retrograde. The tourbillon's axis of rotation is offset from the axis supported by the bridge, allowing you to enjoy its dynamic movement.
The power reserve indicator located next to it has a unique feature that shows the remaining power of the mainspring by expanding and contracting a rod.In addition, it is equipped with an hour-striking mechanism that sounds every hour on the hour using gongs and hammers arranged in a wavy pattern inside the case.
This product uses a 2.5mm outer diameter ruby ball bearing developed by MinebeaMitsumi and the world's smallest ball bearing with an outer diameter of 1.5mm, which contributes to precise movement and accurate operation.
