A breath of ancient Rome in a modern design. The Bvlgari Bronzo expresses Bvlgari's tradition and innovation.

Bvlgari's signature collection, "Bvlgari Aluminum," has gained fans of all ages thanks to its unconventional use of aluminum and rubber and its solid, modern design. Five years after its major mechanical renewal, in 2025, two new models with bronze cases have been released: the "Bvlgari Bronzo GMT" and the "Bvlgari Bronzo Chronograph." I'd like to introduce the changes made to the new materials, comparing them with the "Bvlgari Aluminum Chronograph" that I own.

A contrast between modern design and the traditional Bulgari style, created by the aging of materials

　The Bvlgari Aluminium, which features a design based on perfect circles and straight lines combined with a rubber bezel engraved with the brand logo, first appeared in 1998. However, its design roots date back to the 1960s.

　Riding the wave of the post-World War II economic boom, Bulgari was gaining global recognition for its high jewelry, which utilized vibrant colors and delicate craftsmanship. In 1966, under the direction of Nicola Bulgari, one of the three brothers who took over the family business as the third generation of the Bulgari family and an avid coin collector, Bulgari released its first coin jewelry, "Monete."

　The innovative Monete, which combined contemporary jewelry design with antique coins, immediately created a sensation upon its release and quickly became a staple of Bulgari's collection. Its main motif is an ancient Roman coin, engraved with Latin inscriptions around the periphery, revealing the name of the emperor and his achievements. In 1977, Gianni Bulgari also took inspiration from ancient Roman coins to release the Bulgari Bulgari watch, featuring the brand name engraved on the bezel. Its distinctive bezel and dial design, featuring Arabic numerals only at 12 and 6 o'clock, have since become the basic design codes for Bulgari watches, and are still carried over to the latest Bulgari Aluminium.

　As such, the Monete Collection, which symbolizes Bulgari's traditional sources of inspiration, has often used coins that are prone to aging, such as silver and bronze coins. As a result, the unique texture of the pieces, which evokes the passage of time from ancient times due to sulfidation and patina, creates a contrast with the polished gold frames, making them popular with jewelry lovers around the world. The launch of the Bulgari Bronzo in 2025 into the Bulgari Aluminum Collection, which has a lineage based on the Monete, may be seen as a natural consequence of respecting Bulgari's tradition of "luxury that changes over time."

The design and finish are based on the Bulgari Aluminium design, with some minor adjustments.

　The Bvlgari Bronzo retains the same basic design features as the Bvlgari Aluminum, including a cylindrical middle case and straight lugs molded into one piece, a rubber bezel engraved with the brand logo, and a rubber bracelet with cylindrical metal links. The dimensions of both models remain the same as the previous models. However, the color scheme has been unified: the case is matte bronze, the bezel is black rubber, the dial and date disc are matte black with white print, and the hands are all matte pink gold. The limited number of colors has given the watch a more elegant impression, despite its modern and casual design.

　Additionally, the various small hands on the chronograph model have been changed to thicker baton hands coated with Super-LumiNova®, and the concentric record grooves found in the in-dial of previous models have been eliminated. Furthermore, the addition of a tachymeter to the outer edge of the dial creates an even more condensed layout. These arrangements give the watch the same image as the "Bvlgari Aluminium Gran Turismo Limited Edition" model I own, as a tool for professionals seeking precision and speed.

　At first glance, the finish on the case, bracelet links, and buckle appears to be the same as the previous model, but when compared to the Bulgari aluminum I own, it's clear that the sandblasted matte finish has become much rougher. This is particularly noticeable on the sides of the case, where the hairlines that were originally faintly visible have been completely eliminated in this model. This is purely speculation, but perhaps they decided that a modern surface finish would not be suitable for this model, which aims to express the passage of time through materials that change over time.

　The hands of the Bvlgari Bronzo are also sandblasted and then plated in pink gold, giving the hands a unified texture with the bronze case. This, combined with the subtle shading of the color due to oxidation of the bronze case, gives the watch a unique atmosphere reminiscent of ancient ruins, a unique feature of this watch.

The hook-and-loop fastening system improves weight distribution and each part feels smooth to operate.

　The rubber bracelet with bronze links has the same hinge structure as before up to the second link at both 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, but the ends have been replaced with a long strap with hook-and-loop material and a pinless buckle. This not only makes it easier to put on and take off, but also improves the balance between the watch body and the bracelet, so it holds the watch very well despite the significant weight increase due to the use of bronze material.

　Both the GMT and chronograph models are equipped with movements that are uniquely adapted from a general-purpose ébauche. However, the hands are set very smoothly with a consistent weight, and there is almost no unpleasant noise or vibration. The chronograph model's pushers are also very smooth and free of any unpleasant rubbing, giving them the feel of a high-end watch. The new chronograph module introduced with the Cal. B381 is a well-thought-out design.

A collection with a completely new concept, carefully adjusting what should be retained and what should be changed

　The design and construction of a watch is extremely difficult, as the elements of the dial, hands, bezel, case, lugs, bracelet, etc. all influence each other to determine the overall impression. Therefore, the more highly integrated a piece is, the more likely it is that even a slight change in the local design or color scheme will throw off the balance of the entire watch.

　Bvlgari Aluminum has a long history spanning over 20 years, and is a collection that has established itself through the synergy of material and design. So when I saw the announcement of the Bvlgari Bronzo, I honestly wondered whether the use of bronze was the best solution for a collection that has attracted a younger fan base with the modern and casual image of aluminum. However, as you'd expect from Bvlgari, the new Bvlgari Bronzo from this jeweler, born in Greece and Italy, two art powerhouses with a history dating back to the BC era, expresses a completely new concept while harmonizing the whole with the company's unique use of color and meticulous craftsmanship.

　As a result, the original lightness of the Bvlgari Aluminium has been toned down a bit, transforming the collection into one that exudes elegance and sexiness. This should be a very user-friendly watch, especially for watch enthusiasts like me who enjoy gold jewelry. Even if you've felt that previous Bvlgari Aluminium watches were too casual, I highly recommend giving this one a try.