Writer Shinichi Sato, who participated in a photoshoot for the new releases held at Seiko Watch Headquarters, introduces the Grand Seiko "Elegance Collection" Ref. SBGM255. As the collection name suggests, the white dial is elegant, making this a watch that matches both formal and casual occasions. The intricate embossed geometric pattern is also noteworthy.
Automatic movement (Cal. 9S66). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39.5 mm, thickness 14.1 mm). Water resistant for everyday use. Price: 957,000 yen (tax included).
Text and Photographs by Shin-ichi Sato
[Article published on January 19, 2025]
A new white dial watch with the theme of "snowdrops," a seasonal word for early spring
At a new product photo shoot held at Seiko Watch headquarters, the Grand Seiko "Elegance Collection" Ref. SBGM255 caught the attention of attendees with its elegant charm.
This model features a round case and the Cal. 9S66 automatic movement with a GMT display. While many Grand Seiko watches in recent years have adopted a design that integrates the case sides and lugs, this model has a classic silhouette with a clear boundary between the round case and lugs. It is complemented by edgy indexes, hour, minute, and second hands, and an arrow-shaped GMT hand.
The highlight of this model is its white dial. The theme is "snowdrops," a seasonal word for early spring. The design is based on the motif of snow and dew sparkling in the spring light, and is characterized by a clear white with a slight bluish tint. The dial also features a spiral pattern with diamond-like patterns that become finer towards the center. The blue GMT hand, reminiscent of Grand Seiko's signature color, is also bold.
Grand Seiko's signature embossing technique creates geometric patterns
Grand Seiko's embossed dials in recent years have become synonymous with a high level of perfection. What makes them appealing, unlike any other brand, is that they reflect Grand Seiko's philosophy of "THE NATURE OF TIME," and express Japanese nature and the changing of the seasons. Because the motif is natural scenery, many of the dials feature organic, random patterns, as exemplified by the "birch" dial of the "Evolution 9 Collection" Ref. SLGH005.
In contrast, this model features a very delicate and intricate geometric pattern that is evenly applied. The details are well-organized and the finish is crisp, which is a plus. This pattern echoes the sharp, linear indices and hands, as well as the circular 24-hour display, creating a geometric design for the entire dial. The pattern gets smaller towards the center of the dial, creating a sense of depth that evokes modern architecture, making this a distinctive piece among Grand Seiko products.
Although this design is different from the traditional Grand Seiko style, I found it interesting that when I saw this piece, I predicted that the white would have a slight bluish tinge, perhaps reflecting the blue sky in a snowy landscape. While this is likely due in large part to the designer's "meta-reading" of the Grand Seiko design concept, it is likely due to the skillful use of color and the inspiration for snowflakes that was felt in the pattern.
A movement that gives you the satisfaction of owning a good mechanical watch
The automatic movement, Cal. 9S66, is equipped with a GMT display function that allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently. Let's briefly review how to adjust it. After winding the mainspring to put it into operation, pull the crown out two notches and set the GMT and minute hands to GMT time (or more accurately, UTC time). From there, pull the crown out one notch and rotate only the hour hand to set the date and the time in the current time zone.
This is an operation method common to many movements with a GMT display function, and is comfortable once you get used to it. While I was unable to operate it this time because it was a sample for photography, I can speak from past experience: the operation feels good and the hand moves smoothly. Furthermore, on its website explaining how to use the Cal. 9S66, Grand Seiko suggests using the GMT hand as a 24-hour display. This may be more useful for users who do not often travel abroad.
The case back allows you to enjoy the neat striped pattern, the Grand Seiko logo engraving, and the perlage finish, giving you the satisfaction of owning a fine mechanical watch.
It's on sale now, so check it out in store!
This model was released on December 5th, along with the navy blue Ref. SBGM257, which is themed around the autumn seasonal word "moondrop." When light hits the dial, the intricate pattern casts subtle shadows, creating a changing look that can only be truly appreciated by seeing it in person. We encourage you to visit a store and take a look at this model in person.
