Introducing five masterpiece chronographs from the 2025 new watches that represent technology and history!

2025.12.14

We will introduce five masterpieces from the new chronograph watches released in 2025. This year, a series of new models have been released, symbolizing the technology and history of watchmaking from each company. We will introduce masterpieces with many highlights, including additional mechanisms such as split-seconds and flyback, and hand-finished by artisans.

Written by Tsubasa Nojima
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 14, 2025]


A selection of chronograph masterpieces, synonymous with complex mechanisms!

 The chronograph is a function used to measure elapsed time. It is a useful feature that can be used for a wide range of purposes, from timing on the circuit, production management, and checking your heart rate, to everyday use such as jogging and cooking. This time, we will introduce masterpieces equipped with a chronograph from the new watches announced in 2025.

 Chronographs generally have a mechanism whereby power is connected from the time display wheel train to the chronograph wheel train when started, disconnected by stopping, and zeroed by resetting the chronograph hands. While this may sound simple, there are a wide variety of types, including the type of clutch that connects the power, the cam or column wheel that directly affects the operation feel, and additional mechanisms such as a split-seconds hand for measuring lap times and a flyback that allows for instant reset and restart. We would like to take a peek into the world of chronographs, which strongly reflect the brand's stance and individuality.

Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5308G-001

Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5308G-001

Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5308G-001
A grand complication watch equipped with a minute repeater, split-second chronograph, and perpetual calendar. Featuring an elegant ice blue dial. Automatic (Cal. R CHR 27 PS QI). 67 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18K White Gold case (42mm diameter, 17.71mm thick). Not waterproof. Price: 198,230,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109

 This Grand Complication watch is a new addition to the regular model. It is based on the triple complication Ref. 5208, which was released in 2011. Its complex mechanisms include a minute repeater operated by a slide button at 9 o'clock, a split-second chronograph that employs two patents, and a jumping perpetual calendar displayed in a small window between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock.

 The patents used in the split-seconds chronograph include a new horizontal clutch incorporating parts manufactured using the LIGA process and electroforming, and a split-seconds lever isolation mechanism, both of which contribute to reducing torque loss and minimizing the impact on accuracy when the chronograph is in use.

 The 18K white gold case features a distinctive design with a concave bezel and openwork lugs. The case back comes with either a sapphire crystal back or a solid case back. The sunburst ice blue dial adds a refreshing touch.

Breguet "Type XX Chronograph 2075" Ref. 2075BH/99/398

Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075

Breguet "Type XX Chronograph 2075" Ref. 2075BH/99/398
A hand-wound chronograph with a compact case. Crafted from 18K Breguet gold for a glamorous look. Hand-wound (Cal. 7279). 28 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 18K Breguet gold case (diameter 38.3mm, thickness 13.2mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 6,149,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211

 This pilot's chronograph is equipped with a manual-winding chronograph movement. The anodized black aluminum dial features three-dimensional Arabic numerals and the brand logo. A large 15-minute counter is located at the 3 o'clock position, and a small seconds hand is located at the 9 o'clock position, completing the classic design.

 The compact 38.3mm case is crafted from 18K Breguet gold and features a bidirectional rotating bezel. The transparent caseback allows you to admire the hand-engraved details on the movement bridges.

 The manual-winding chronograph movement used in this watch is based on the Caliber 728 series automatic chronograph movement released in 2023, but has been modified for manual winding. It features a flyback mechanism, allowing the watch to be instantly reset and restarted by pressing the push button at 4 o'clock during measurement. It boasts excellent specifications, including a power reserve of approximately 60 hours and a high vibration rate of 10 vibrations per second, which is theoretically resistant to external disturbances.

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary King Gold Ceramic Ref. 431.OM.1338.RX

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary King Gold Ceramic Ref. 431.OM.1338.RX

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary King Gold Ceramic Ref. 431.OM.1338.RX
It features a case made from a combination of 18K King Gold and black ceramic. Designs commemorating the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang are incorporated throughout. Automatic movement (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. 18K King Gold and black ceramic case (43mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. Price: 5,423,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Hublot Tel. 03-5635-7055

This limited edition model was released to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang. The black dial features a carbon-effect die-casting that changes appearance depending on the light. The three-dimensional design, including the luminous indexes and stepped inset dial, is captivating.

 The case is a combination of 18K King Gold and ceramic. King Gold is Hublot's gold alloy that contains platinum and is highly resistant to tarnishing and corrosion. The ceramic bezel features a checkered pattern on the side, giving it a sporty look. The crown top is engraved with a 20th anniversary mark, adding to the special feel. The strap is made of black rubber and features a checkered pattern.

 The in-house automatic chronograph movement, Cal. HUB1280, can be viewed through the see-through case back, allowing visitors to enjoy every detail, including the 20th anniversary openwork rotor shaped like the brand logo, and the intricately moving gears and levers.

Louis Moinet "1816"

Louis Moinet 1816

Louis Moinet "1816"
A manual-winding chronograph inspired by the world's first chronograph, developed by watchmaker Louis Moinet. The unique layout of the dial is reminiscent of the original. Manual winding (Cal. LM1816). 34 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Ti case (diameter 40.6 mm, thickness 14.7 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 6,930,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) GM International Tel. 03-5828-9080

 This new addition to the Mechanical Wonders collection is inspired by the world's first chronograph, the Contour de Thiers, which was completed in 1816. Its sporty design features an integrated bracelet case made of grade 5 titanium.

 The silver dial is micro-bead blasted and satin-finished to give it a matte texture. The layout of the small seconds and 30-minute counter at the top and the 12-hour counter at the bottom faithfully reproduces the design of the Contour de Thiers watch. The hands of the subdial and the chronograph seconds hand are blue, adding an accent.

 This model is the first to feature a bracelet developed by the company. The design, with its wide links, is both powerful and elegant. The shape has been named "Project Bridge."

 The movement is a manual-winding chronograph, jointly developed with Concept Co., Ltd. The see-through case back allows you to admire the gold-finished bridges, bridges, and levers that move with the chronograph.

Angelus "Chronograph Telemeter" Ref.0CHC.SG01A.V010S

Chronograph Telemeter

Angelus "Chronograph Telemeter" Ref.0CHC.SG01A.V010S
A limited edition model that pays homage to Angelus' chronograph manufacturing techniques. The telemeter on the outer periphery of the dial measures distance using the speed of sound. Manual winding (Cal. A5000). 23 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 21,600 vph. Stainless steel case (diameter 37mm, thickness 9.25mm). Limited to 25 pieces worldwide. 3,520,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Arnold & Son Consultation Center Tel. 0570-03-1764

 The "La Fabrique" collection pays homage to the watchmaking techniques of Angelus, a prestigious manufacturer of chronographs. This new model is a one-push chronograph that has been added to the lineup. Its distinctive feature is the telemeter located on the outer edge of the dial, which is also included in the model name. The telemeter measures distance based on the time when an event is visually confirmed and when the sound is heard. It is a tool that can be used to determine the distance to fireworks or lightning.

 The gray dial features a small second and 30-minute counter, and applied indexes create a three-dimensional effect. The box-shaped sapphire crystal gives it a vintage feel.

 The compact 37mm case is made of stainless steel, and the chronograph pushers are integrated coaxially with the crown, giving the case sides a clean look.

 Equipped with a manual-winding chronograph movement, the see-through back allows you to enjoy the gold-colored bridge with striped decoration and the gracefully curved lever.


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