This is a hands-on review of the Mühle-Glashütte Sportivo Active Chronograph. This sports chronograph is water resistant to 30 bar and features a blue and orange color scheme and an intricately patterned dial.
Photographs & Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 15, 2025]
What is the German brand Mühle-Glashütte?
This time, I'll be reviewing the Sportivo Active Chronograph from Mühle-Glashütte, a watch brand from Glashütte, Germany. As of 2025, Mühle-Glashütte has only nine physical stores in Japan that stock its watches, which is quite limited. I suspect that many people have never seen the actual watch.
Mühle-Glashütte is a brand founded in 1869 that not only produces watches but also high-precision measuring instruments such as speedometers. After World War II, the company was ordered to be dismantled and confiscated, temporarily halting its history, but it made a comeback as a watchmaker in 1994 and now produces the simple, sturdy, practical watches that are characteristic of the Glashütte brand.
One of the lineups is the "Sportivo" sports watch collection. This review will focus on a chronograph watch with a vibrant blue and orange color scheme from this collection, which features a solid case with a crown guard, a rotating bezel, and excellent water resistance.
A sports chronograph with a striking blue and orange color scheme. Water resistant to 30 bar. Automatic winding. 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 62 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42.5 mm, thickness 15.5 mm). Water resistant to 30 bar. Price: 698,500 yen (tax included).
Gradient blue dial reminiscent of the deep sea
The dial is undoubtedly the most eye-catching feature. It features a random pattern reminiscent of the rippling surface of water, and you can enjoy the way its appearance changes slightly depending on the angle you look at it from. The blue gradation, which is light in the center and darkens towards the periphery, creates a mysterious atmosphere reminiscent of the deep sea. If it had been just blue, it would have given a stretched impression, but by using orange minute markers, the overall look is tightened, giving the dial a sense of concentration.
The dial layout is a two-counter design with a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a date display at 6 o'clock, and a small second at 9 o'clock. The symmetrical design gives it a well-balanced appearance. The sub-dial is slightly larger, which not only improves visibility but also enhances the instrument's chronograph-like feel. The sub-dial has a stepped design and a record-like groove in the center, which adds a visual accent.
The trapezoidal, three-dimensional indexes and dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands are coated with luminous paint to ensure visibility at night. The luminous paint itself is a distinct white, making it highly visible during the day. The chronograph second hand and 30-minute counter hand are unified in orange to prevent confusion with the time display hands. The date window feels a little small, but the bold font makes it easy to read.
Massive design stainless steel case
The case is made of stainless steel. With a diameter of 43mm and a thickness of 15.5mm, it appears voluminous, but as mentioned above, the compact feel of the dial itself helps prevent the diameter from feeling too large. The lug-to-lug measurement is approximately 50mm, which is by no means small, but not so large that it would be unsuitable for all wearers. Considering that it is an automatic chronograph and is water resistant to 30 bar, the thickness is within the standard range.
The bezel rotates with 120 clicks, making for a clicking sound. The non-slip coin-edge grooves on the outer periphery allow for effortless operation with minimal effort. Because it can be rotated in both directions, even if you accidentally pass the intended stop, you can simply turn it back a little. The white markers and numerals on the bezel are coated with luminous paint, and like the indexes and hands, they glow in the dark.
Furthermore, a bidirectionally rotating outer bezel without a locking mechanism is not permitted for a diver's watch as defined by ISO 6425. The same is true for the lack of indexes at 3 and 9 o'clock. While this watch may look like a diver's chronograph watch, it does not actually fit the definition of a diver's watch; it is more of a "sports chronograph watch with high water resistance." If you are looking for a diver's watch to use for actual diving, be careful.
The official website also states that the watch is "suitable for intensive interval workouts and 1km training sessions during Hyrox events," and many of the images posted feature forests and sandy landscapes. Personally, I think a bidirectional rotating bezel would be more convenient, and the indices, which are overwhelmed by the subdials and date display, give the impression of being tacked on. In that respect, the free-flowing design of this watch is very appealing.
The case is mainly hairline-finished, with polished lug chamfers and chronograph pushers. It exudes a sense of luxury while also being scratch-resistant, making it a suitable finish for a luxury sports watch. The case back is screw-down and transparent.
The strap has a casual design, combining navy blue canvas and orange rubber. The rubber on the back has a recess to prevent sweat and water from accumulating. Wearing a rubber strap for extended periods, especially in the summer, can cause sweat to accumulate and become uncomfortable. A rubber strap like this one will significantly reduce this discomfort. The strap is fitted with a pin buckle featuring the brand logo.
Focus on the woodpecker neck speed regulator mechanism
This is merely a guess based on appearance, but the movement appears to be based on Sellita's automatic chronograph SW500. Since the basic design is inherited from the Cal. 7750, it should be quite reliable.
The appearance of a general-purpose movement changes dramatically depending on the level of work the brand puts into it. This timepiece has been meticulously crafted down to the last detail, resulting in a movement that is a joy to look at, with details like the finely grained bridges, the perlage on the balance cock, and the blued screws. The rotor, with its six openings, moves the center of gravity outward to improve winding efficiency. The most eye-catching feature is the woodpecker neck regulator, a symbol of Mühle-Glashütte. This regulator, which uses a spring shaped like a woodpecker and an adjustment screw, maintains high precision over the long term and can be easily adjusted during maintenance.
A sports chronograph that brightens up your leisure time
When I actually wore it, I found that wearing the rubber strap a little tighter put the head close to my wrist, making it less noticeable. Even when I moved my arm, I didn't feel like the watch was swinging around, and this fit was comfortable for short periods of wear.
On the other hand, wearing it too tightly for long periods of time can gradually cause stress due to the feeling of being restricted to the wrist. Loosening it one notch solves the problem, but then the center of gravity moves away from the wrist, and you suddenly feel the weight. When wearing it for long periods of time, it's a good idea to determine how to wear it best for you. Furthermore, if you swing your arm widely while wearing it, you can hear the sound of the rotor spinning. This model uses a unidirectional automatic winding mechanism, and if you don't wind it, it will spin vigorously. This is the same for the Cal. 7750, a movement of the same type.
Visibility is excellent. The gradient dial and the chronograph display provide ample visibility despite the large amount of information, likely due to the bright white luminous paint. Another attractive feature is the large subdial, which allows you to instantly check the measured time while using the chronograph.
The chronograph pushers have a firm feel to them, typical of a sports watch. Considering the need to prevent malfunctions and improve water resistance, it makes sense that they have a slightly firmer feel.
The crown is screw-in. It can be unscrewed and left in that position to wind the mainspring, pulled out one notch to set the date, and pulled out two notches to set the time. When adjusting the time, I noticed a slightly rough feel and the hands were a little wobbly, but these were not a major inconvenience in practical use.
Personally, I had never paid any attention to the Mühle-Glashütte "Sportivo" collection. Its distinctive color scheme and thickness make it a model that is undeniably suited to certain occasions and outfits. However, on the flip side, it's a recommended model for those looking for a unique sports watch.
