This is an annual end-of-year project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2025. Watch journalist Shigeru Sugawara selected five "simple yet sophisticated" watches from the diverse range of watches released in 2025, making it impossible to talk about the trends. His picks include Parmigiani Fleurier's "Trick Perpetual Calendar," which incorporates a complex mechanism into a minimalist design, and Hermès' "Arceaux Teintspondue," which was revived this year.
1th place: Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar"
This model is the epitome of "simple yet sophisticated." The complex mechanism of the perpetual calendar is incorporated into a minimalist design, resulting in an elegant and sophisticated look. It is the perfect example of "quiet luxury."
Manual winding (Cal. PF733). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 10.9mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. 92,000 Swiss francs.
2nd place: Hermès "Arceaux Tenchspondue"
I remember writing about this beloved masterpiece frequently since its launch in 2011, and it's back. Hermès has turned the impossible into the possible, with the ability to stop and restart the time display. The even more refined design is also great.
Automatic winding (Cal. H1837). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 42mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Estimated price: 5,761,800 yen (tax included).
3st Place: Breguet Classique 7225
Among the 250th anniversary models, this masterpiece stands out for its logical storyline. It beautifully combines the historical design of the 1802 tourbillon with Breguet's modern technology, including a magnetic pivot and a high frequency of 10Hz (72,000 vph).
Manual-winding (Cal. 74SC). 54 jewels. 72,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18K Breguet gold case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.7mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 12,617,000 yen (tax included).
4th place: Daniel Roth "Tourbillon Platinum"
La Fabric du Temps, a model revived by Louis Vuitton in 2023, is now available in a chic platinum finish. It features a reconstructed tourbillon movement, the same case size as the original, and meticulous, high-quality finishing.
Manual winding (Cal. DR001). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 80 hours. Pt case (38.6mm x 35.5mm, 9.2mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Please inquire about domestic pricing.
5th place: Laurent Ferrier "Classic Origin Beige"
This year marks the 15th anniversary of the company's founding, and the company has released the manual-winding "Classic Origin," which combines a 5N red gold case with a new beige dial. Its elegance is even more refined than its predecessor, captivating watch enthusiasts.
Manual winding (Cal. LF 116.01). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 80 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.7mm). Water resistant to 30m. Pin buckle model: 8,514,000 yen, folding buckle model: 9,108,000 yen (all prices include tax).
General comment
The year 2025 will be filled with a plethora of watches, from complicated to simple, making it difficult to pinpoint the trends. While the seemingly endless stream of sophisticated or unusual complicated watches is intriguing, the over-specced watches give the impression of being dead-ends, which can be a bit stressful. On the other hand, what I personally like is the "simple yet sophisticated" design, a watch that hides superior technology within a simple design. This model shines with a similar flair to the Chronos and Kairos.
Examples include Parmigiani Fleurier, which has given the perpetual calendar, which can often be cluttered, a minimalist design, and Hermès' new watch, which allows the owner to decide whether or not to display the time. This can also be seen in Breguet, which has adopted the design of the historic tourbillon but attempted to reinterpret its meaning without using a tourbillon. The art of "simple yet clever" also lies in the finishing touches in addition to the design and mechanism.
Luxury watch enthusiasts are now much more discerning than ever before, and the handiwork of artisans in the finishing of the exterior and movement has become a point of appreciation. To pick just two watches that I thought were outstanding after actually holding them in my hands, I would say Daniel Roth and Laurent Ferrier. I was reminded that these are truly works of art in the form of timepieces.
Shigeru Sugawara's profile
Born in 1954. Watch journalist. In the 1980s, he covered France and Italy for fashion and jewelry magazines. Since the 1990s, he has focused on watches, covering the annual watch fair held in Switzerland for over 25 years. He has written and published numerous articles in watch magazines such as "Chronos Japan" and general magazines. He also translates books on watches.
