Ah, the year flies by. As always, Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan/webChronos, has selected a watch that will symbolize the year 2025. While there are many memorable new watches, the one he chose from among them was the Grand Seiko UFA. It's true that the ultra-high-precision movement is impressive. But the packaging, including the case and bracelet—in other words, the exterior—is also meticulously thought out.
Text by Masayuki Hirota(Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 19, 2025]
I was asked to name the "best" of 2025.
As part of the year-end theme, Ohashi was once again asked to choose the best watch of 2025. Last year, he chose the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Combining an independently adjustable hour hand and an instantaneous date display, this watch, with a case size of just 39mm, was truly a masterpiece.
There are plenty of options this year, too. The Audemars Piguet RD#5, Breguet's Classique Subscription 2025, Casio's Sa Watch, the 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815, and the Grand Seiko UFA are all outstanding watches, but as of December 2025, the one I want is the Grand Seiko. It's a good watch, and I like it, so much so that it's surprising it didn't win a category at the Geneva Watch Grand Prix.
Ultra-high precision despite being spring-driven. Comfortable to wear.
We've talked extensively about Grand Seiko's UFA in this magazine and on webChronos, so there's no need to say much more here. Despite being a spring-driven watch, it achieves an annual accuracy of ±20 seconds, and its temperature compensation function ensures its accuracy remains consistent even in extreme cold or heat.
What's more, thanks to the lightweight bright titanium case, it's extremely comfortable to wear. If you're looking for a high-quality, high-performance watch, this is the one to buy. It's good enough. You can't take it into a hot spring, though.
Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9RB2). 34 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (37mm diameter, 11.4mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,518,000 yen (tax included).
Excellent packaging: lightness, balance, and a bracelet
What I felt about this watch was how well packaged it was. The watch is light, has a low center of gravity, and the balance between the watch part (head) and the bracelet part (tail) is good. In addition, this model finally has an extension on the bracelet buckle that can be easily adjusted.
I've always liked Grand Seiko's sturdy bracelets with just the right amount of play, but I can't deny that the buckle was too conservative. For this model, Seiko updated the buckle, finally bringing the bracelet up to world-class standards. The buckle, with no play and just the right amount of smoothness, is at least as good as an IWC.
Excessive taper can ruin the fit
The trick is the way the bracelet tapers. Over the past decade, Swiss watchmakers have all started to taper their bracelets. Specifically, they make the case wider and the buckle thinner.
It's true that tapering the bracelet or strap toward the buckle makes the watch look dressier, and since 2016, it's clear that attention has been focused on tapering to add a sense of luxury to bracelet watches.
Moreover, coupled with the improved quality of bracelets, the so-called "lug sports" watches from 2016 onwards have become even more "lug-like". However, some models are clearly too tapered. While they look cool, this is like putting thin tires on a large car body, and they clearly don't fit well on the wrist. This is why I don't unconditionally praise the latest Rolexes.
The UFA exterior achieves exquisite balance
But that's a bit of a digression. Seiko, on the other hand, has consistently made its bracelets thicker. This made Grand Seiko watches look heavy, but from the perspective of comfort, it wasn't bad at all. One of the reasons why the high-waisted cases of the past felt comfortable on the wrist is clearly this bracelet.
Seiko decided to taper the bracelet of the UFA, but kept it at 20mm on the case and 18mm on the buckle, a standard and now considered reasonable measure. If they had chosen something like 20mm on the case and 15mm on the buckle, I would not have appreciated it at all, even if it had an incredibly high-performance movement.
It's not just precision. A watch that shows the maturity of its craftsmanship.
The UFA's accuracy of within ±20 seconds per year is undeniably impressive. However, I also commend Seiko for evolving the packaging. No matter how excellent a watch is, it's pointless if it's difficult to use. This flawless watch, with its flawless design in every way, reflects Grand Seiko's maturity. I sincerely hope that bracelets like this will become the standard for Grand Seiko in the future.
