The editorial team of Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the watch industry's new product exhibition. This article, originally published in our magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we will be looking at Panerai's new watch, an updated version of their signature collection, the Luminor Marina.
Based on the new Luminor Marina, the case is made of grade 5 titanium. Titanium is approximately 40% lighter than stainless steel, and is also corrosion-resistant and highly durable. Despite its 44mm case size, it is easy to handle on the wrist. This is our top recommended new model of the year, combining a design that is full of Panerai's signature style with high practicality. Automatic winding (Cal. P.980). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Ti case (diameter 44mm, thickness 13.7mm). Water resistant to 500m.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Yukiya Suzuki (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Panerai Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025
In recent years, Panerai has expanded its Luminor Due line to attract new customers, including women and young people, and has achieved some success. In 2025, the brand made a complete turnaround by announcing the Luminor Tre Giorni, raising expectations that the brand would return to its roots. However, what they have actually achieved is true evolution.
The new Luminor Marina returns to its roots while achieving improved specs
As Panerai states, "Our strategy is one of evolution, not change," the company is reaffirming its brand DNA while pursuing "evolution" to ensure further development. Looking at the new models announced at W&WG 2025 from that perspective, it certainly makes sense.
The highlight of Panerai this year is undoubtedly the update of the brand's iconic model, the Luminor Marina. While strictly adhering to the design codes of the Luminor Marina, such as the iconic case shape and lever-lock crown protector, thick lugs and pencil-shaped hands, and the sandwich dial, the dial has been simplified to only print the brand logo and model name.
Panerai's iconic Luminor Marina has been updated with the new Cal. P.980 movement, which has a power reserve of approximately three days. Water resistance has also been improved to 500m. The new stainless steel bracelet features a design that tapers from the case to the buckle, making it even lighter to wear. Automatic winding (Cal. P.980). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44mm, thickness 13.7mm). Water resistance to 500m.
This new model was unveiled at the Milan Salone International Furniture Fair, held after W&WG. It features a 44mm black ceramic case with a combination of polished and sandblasted finishes. The case back is made of titanium with a smoked sapphire crystal. Automatic winding (Cal. P.9012). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 44mm, thickness 14.67mm). Water resistant to 300m.
As a result, the sun-brushed finish on the base of the color dial is more effectively highlighted. The familiar sandwich dial with perforated hour markers is also the first in the Luminor collection to use Super-LumiNova X2, improving visibility in dark places.
It is worth noting that while maintaining the iconic design codes, the sapphire crystal caseback has been revived and the watch now has 500m water resistance, the highest water resistance in the history of the Luminor Marina. Additionally, the movement has been updated to the new Cal.P.980, based on the Cal.P.900, and the case proportions have been reconsidered accordingly. The thickness has been reduced by 12% and the weight by 15%, achieving the long-awaited compactness.
This is a perfect example of true evolution in terms of practicality while maintaining the brand's DNA.
The new Luminor Marina is the first Panerai watch to use Super-LumiNova X2 as a luminous paint. This is 10% brighter than previous models. Automatic winding (Cal. P. 980). 23 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44 mm, thickness 13.7 mm). Water resistant to 500 m.
The new Luminor Marina comes in five models, including one bracelet and four straps. The white dials have a less tool-like feel and a more urban feel. Automatic movement (Cal. P.980). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (44mm diameter, 13.7mm thick). Water resistant to 500m.
