The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the watch industry's trade fair for new releases. This article, originally published in the magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we're introducing Tudor, a brand that bucks the trend with its new, chunky, and high-spec watches.
This new model boasts a rare 43mm diameter, which is rare these days. Tudor's iconic colors are also used on the dial. Although the case size has increased, fine tuning ensures a comfortable fit. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5601-U). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (43mm diameter, 13.6mm thick). Water resistant to 200m.
Photographs by Ryotaro Horiuchi
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Tudor Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025
Tudor has earned a reputation for its high-quality tool watches. However, the company also has a penchant for creating provocative products that shake up the market. The two watches that caught our eye in 2025 were the Pelagos Ultra, a high-spec diver's watch that's rare these days, and the Black Bay 68, a diver's watch with a massive case.
This is a high-spec diver's watch suitable for everyday use. It's not just a thicker case; the dial, hands, and dial openings are also different from existing models. The regular model is blue, with the minute hand being green. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5612-U). 28,800 vph. Approximately 65 hours of power reserve. Ti case (43mm diameter, 14.5mm thick). Water resistant to 1000m.
The former, Tudor's first 1000m diver's watch, uses grade 5 and grade 2 titanium for the exterior and keeps the case thickness to just 14.5mm, making it suitable for everyday use. That said, it's typical of Tudor to enlarge the indices and hands for professional use and add two-tone luminous paint. The latter, on the other hand, is a deliberate attempt to enlarge the case. Described as "a bold, large model typical of Tudor," it's a challenge to the watch industry's trend toward dress watches and small diameters. However, the watch's fine details, such as the 1mm wider bracelet compared to the standard Black Bay, are still noticeable.
This is a new colorway of the classic Black Bay 58. The glossy burgundy dial and matching bezel are elements of the classic Ref. 79190. Incidentally, it meets Master Chronometer standards. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400-U). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter, 11.7mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 633,600 yen (tax included).
This is a model with a five-link bracelet. It's thin, easy to use, and highly functional, making it a perfect high-quality tool watch. However, with the addition of the "68" this year, it's hard to deny the impression that there are too many models. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400-U). 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter, 11.7mm thick). Water resistant to 200m.
All of the new models pictured, except for the Black Bay Pro, are Master Chronometer models with 15,000 gauss magnetic resistance. Provocative yet thorough, this is typical of Tudor.
The classic "Pro" model has also been given a visual upgrade with an opaline dial. The indices are particularly noteworthy. By filling the black ceramic frame with luminous paint, visibility is ensured even in bright environments, even with a white dial. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5652). 28,800 vph. Approximately 70 hours of power reserve. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter). 200m water resistance.
