What stood out was the "watch that speaks to the brand's identity." University professor and watch journalist selects the top 5 new watches for 2025

This is an annual end-of-year project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2025. This time, watch journalist and university professor Koichi Namiki chose a wide range of watches, from luxury brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin to Bulova. The key to the selection was whether the brand's stance on "redefining its own position" was reflected.

Patek Philippe "Calatrava" Ref. 6196P

This classic Calatrava is reminiscent of the classic 96 series, but rebuilt with modern perfection. The tension created by the platinum case and manual-winding movement clearly demonstrates the ideal dress watch for 2025.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Extra-Thin Perpetual Calendar

The technical skill required to create a perpetual calendar that is as thin as possible and elegant is astounding. The soft look of the pink gold and the traditional design are in harmony, achieving a level of perfection that makes you forget that it is ultra-thin.

Breguet "Classic Subscription 2025"

The original single-hand display has been accurately reconstructed using modern technology. Its expressive power makes us reconsider the act of telling time itself, making it a significant piece that accurately conveys the philosophy of founder Breguet to the modern era.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold & Burgundy

The practicality of a professional diver is combined with the elegance of materials and colors. The unique bronze gold alloy and burgundy bezel have certainly expanded the realm of expression for luxury sports watches.

Bulova "Accutron Tuning Fork Space View 314"

I was drawn to the fact that this unorthodox technology, the tuning fork, was presented in a contemporary manner rather than as a nostalgic nod. The flowing second hand and visible mechanism suggest a different way of perceiving time in an age when mechanical timepieces are in their heyday.

General comment

　Looking at the new watches for 2025, what stood out wasn't flashy evolution or technological competition, but each brand's commitment to redefining their position. The more established the maisons, the more carefully and sincerely they approached this question. Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin reexamined the essence of the dress watch, demonstrating universal values ​​such as thinness and symmetry at the highest level. Breguet reexamined the concept of time through its display format, reaffirming the depth of watch culture. Meanwhile, Omega expanded the emotional realm of sports watches through its expression of materials, and Bulova's Accutron connected a non-mainstream technological history to the present. 2025 was a year that once again demonstrated that watches are not simply new products, but a medium for communicating ideas and attitudes. I believe that all five of the watches I selected are aware of this role.

Selector Profile

Koichi Namiki

Watch journalist and professor at Toin University of Yokohama. Specializes in media theory, cultural representation theory, Japanese language education, administrative scrivener law, and travel agency law. Has been covering luxury watches both in Japan and overseas since the 1990s. His publications include "I Can't Buy a Rolex" (CCC Media House) and "A Watch for Life" (Kobunsha Shinsho).