The editorial team of Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, covered Watches & Wonders 2025, the watch industry's new product exhibition. This article, originally published in the magazine under the title "New watches that shone in Geneva: The keywords were 'color' and 'small diameter,'" is now republished on webChronos. This time, we look back at Van Cleef & Arpels' new 2025 watches, which use automata to tell a story.
This high jewelry piece joins the Pont des Amoureux collection, featuring on-demand animation. The Clair de Lune, pictured, depicts a moonlit scene with its dark blue hue and starry sky on the dial. Automatic movement (Cal. Valfleurier Q020). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 36 hours. 18K white gold case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Hiroyuki Suzuki and Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and text
Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki, Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
A new scene of lovers expressed in a double retrograde arrangement
Van Cleef & Arpels has earned the respect of even the most discerning watch enthusiasts with its Poetic Complications, which use complex mechanisms to tell poetic stories. The Pont des Amoureux, released in 2010, underwent a full model change in 2019, evolving into an in-house movement with on-demand animation. The double retrograde movement has also been improved, with the time between lovers kissing on the bridge at midnight now being three minutes, and the minute hand now positioned exactly three minutes after the clock strikes zero.
A newly developed automaton mechanism depicts lovers dancing the Guinguette. At midnight, their lips lock as if pulling each other's hands. This is an adaptation of the existing double retro mechanism, but it has been reborn as a completely new complication. Automatic winding. Power reserve of approximately 36 hours. 18K white gold case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m.
This year, the mechanism has been encased in luxurious Métiers d'Art, becoming a high jewelry piece depicting four scenes from the course of a day. The all-new Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automata Watch makes use of the Pont des Amoureux's double retrograde display and on-demand mechanism, while adding an entirely new automaton to the dial. As the stroke of midnight approaches, lovers dancing the Guinguette move "horizontally" as if pulling each other's hands, and then their lips meet. Comparing the mechanism alone, there are only four additional parts, but the movement, which conveys such emotion, is truly magnificent.
Interview with Catherine Régnier
Catherine Rénier, former CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, was appointed President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels in September 2024. Having previously worked with the Maison for 15 years, the new start was a natural fit for her.
Everything has remained the same, but our voices have grown louder.
Born in France, he graduated from IECS in Strasbourg and earned an MBA in the United States. He began his career at Cartier in North America, then worked at Van Cleef & Arpels as commercial director for Asia Pacific before becoming head of the entire Asia Pacific region. In May 2018, he was appointed CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, but in September 2024, he returned to his former position as president and CEO, succeeding Nicolas Boss.
"It felt like returning to a place I had left. The values and inspirations of Van Cleef & Arpels remain the same, and it was reassuring to see that."
True to her words, Rainier values consistency. A symbol of this is L'Ecole, the school of jewellery and decorative arts. She has been involved with the school since its inception in 2012, and it has now grown to five campuses around the world. "Everything has remained the same, but our voice has grown louder and our influence has grown stronger."
Rainier says that "self-understanding" is at the heart of the Maison's creativity. "The inspiration from nature comes from the blooming of spring flowers, colors, and beings with clear identities, such as fairies and ballerinas. This has given the Maison's creativity consistency." Consistency also breeds scalability. This year's Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automata watch is a new work based on a masterpiece. Set in Paris, lovers hold hands and dance on the cobblestones, exchanging kisses at noon and midnight.
This time, it was precisely that image of Paris that she emphasized.
"We wanted to bring in Paris. Paris as the city of love, and Paris as a city that breathes nature. We used wood and metalwork as the stage setting."
What's interesting is the design of this year's booth. The open space, like a stroll through a plaza, gives a sense of Rainier's feelings about Van Cleef & Arpels. "My role is to make the brand more accessible to as many people as possible, without lowering prices and while maintaining the Maison's unique worldview."
One piece that made a lasting impression on her was the Cadena, a timepiece that is both jewelry and a watch, a typical example of the brand, and one that has remained virtually unchanged since the 1930s.
"The fusion of design, beauty as jewelry, and practicality. This rediscovery was the fruit of this year." And indeed, this is a more open-minded watch. I also see potential in men's watches, and Rainier seems positive about this development. "For example, a world timer. It has the elegance that is characteristic of the Maison and a unique approach to complex mechanisms. I think we can continue to develop this in the future, along with the Poetic Complications and astronomical collections."
After 15 years, Catherine Rénier will return to the place where she was raised. Let's look forward to her words on making the company more open from this year onwards.
