This is an annual end-of-year project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2025. This time, watch journalist Tetsuo Shinoda will take a closer look at his top five selections. As many brands celebrated anniversaries this year, these brands and collections released some impressive models. Among these, particularly iconic models such as Breguet's "Classique Subscription 2025" and Hublot's "Big Bang 20th Anniversary" were selected.
Breguet "Classic Subscription 2025"
This is a beautiful and elegant one-hand model. The level of perfection, including the movement, is astonishing, but what's even more interesting is that it's made to order, just like the subscription models of the past. However, the fact that the full amount must be paid in advance is a modern change.
Manual winding (Cal. VS00). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. 18K Breguet gold case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.8mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 7,579,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (RD#5) "150th Anniversary"
The combination of a chronograph and a tourbillon is not unusual, but it's interesting to see it housed in the same size as the original model, 39mm in diameter and 8.1mm thick. And yet, the push buttons are surprisingly similar to a smartphone.
Automatic winding (Cal. 8100). 44 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Titanium and BMG case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 2 bar. Limited to 150 pieces worldwide. Price inquiries required. (Inquiries) Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000
Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary
Since the concept has always been "fusion," the strategy of fusing the original with the modern era for the 20th anniversary is brilliant. What's more, it's also great that they released five models that have the style that symbolizes the current Big Bang. My personal favorite is the King Gold model.
Automatic movement (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K King Gold and black ceramic case (43mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. 5,423,000 yen. (Inquiries) LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Hublot Tel. 03-5635-7055
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première
This extraordinary watch, developed over eight years, incorporates 41 complex mechanisms and 13 patented technologies, yet is just 14.99mm thick and 45mm in diameter. Its practicality is a testament to its seriousness.
Automatic movement (Cal. 3655). 204 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K white gold case (diameter 45mm, thickness 14.99mm). Unique piece. (Inquiries) Vacheron Constantin Tel. 0120-63-1755
Zenith "GFJ"
This modern update of the famous "Caliber 135," which achieved excellent results in the Observatory Chronometer Competition, offers ultra-high accuracy despite its low beat. It will likely become the centerpiece of dress watches in the future, and we can't wait.
Manual winding (Cal. 135). 18,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.15 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 6,952,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
General comment
Many talented brands were celebrating their anniversaries in 2025. Special models are released to mark such milestones, and it seemed that some of these masterpieces stood out. Anniversary models are important because they connect the brand's past and present, so it seems that a lot of effort was put into them.
Breguet was the center of attention this year. With its long history of 250 years and the beautiful numerals, the anniversary celebrations were a big hit, and not only the watches but also the unique 18K Breguet gold material were a hot topic.
Audemars Piguet, celebrating its 150th anniversary, is no exception when it comes to good-looking numbers. This year, the brand's "RD Series," which aims to create a vision of the future of watches, reached its final chapter, and the brand is celebrating its 150th anniversary with a special exhibition, "House of Wonders," which will run until April 30, 2026, in Ginza.
However, I personally recommend the Hublot Big Bang, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary. It was a wonderful experience to follow the footsteps of a watch that has generated such a huge amount of enthusiasm, and to interview its CEO and developers. It feels like a relative to watch that I have watched grow over and over again, as it turns 20.
Of course, Vacheron Constantin's ultra-high complication models, which have been continuously exploring watchmaking technology for 270 years, and Zenith's strategy of once again focusing on dress watches to mark the 160th anniversary of its founding, each have their own story that can only be told on anniversaries, and it is difficult to choose between them.
Selector Profile
Tetsuo Shinoda
Born in 1975, he worked in the editorial department of Kodansha's Hot Dog Press before going independent. He writes a wide range of watch articles, from serious to casual, for a variety of publications, including watch magazines, fashion magazines, business magazines, newspapers, and the web. In addition to his work, he is also attending the Watch Course (Career School Watchmaker Course) at Hiko Mizuno Jewelry College, a watchmaking school, where he is learning about watch theory, structure, and disassembly and assembly techniques. He is a regular judge for the Top 10 Rankings published by Chronos Japan. In 2020, he published "Choosing a Watch as a Cultural Education" (Kobunsha Shinsho).
