This is an annual end-of-year project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2025. This time, we will introduce the five watches that watch writer and editor Yutaka Fukuda, also known as Rock Fukuda, carefully selected after much deliberation. The first to be named as the winner is the Classique Subscription 2025, which commemorates the 250th anniversary of Breguet's founding.
Winner: Breguet "Classique Subscription 2025"
This is the first piece to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the company's founding. Its appeal lies in the fact that it is packed with Breguet history, including Breguet hands, Breguet numerals, Grand Feu enamel, and a parachute. Other highlights include the blued hands and secret pantograph signatures, created by the skilled craftsmen of the restoration workshop.
Manual winding (Cal. VS00). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. 18K Breguet gold case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.8mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 7,579,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
2nd place: Zenith "GFJ"
To commemorate the 160th anniversary of the company's founding, the classic movement "Cal. 135" has been reissued. The large balance wheel rotates slowly at a low beat (5 vibrations), making it a delight to watch. This limited edition sold out immediately. We look forward to the release of the regular model (at a slightly more affordable price) next year.
Manual winding (Cal. 135). 18,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.15 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 6,952,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
3rd Place: Audemars Piguet "Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar"
The "all-in-one" crown mechanism, which took five years to develop, allows the month, date, day of the week, moon phase, etc. to be individually adjusted using the four positions of the crown. This is truly the world's most user-friendly, innovative perpetual calendar model.
Automatic movement (Cal. 7138). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18K sand gold case (diameter 41mm, thickness 9.5mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price inquiries required. (Inquiries) Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000
4th place: NAOYA HIDA & Co. "NH TYPE 6A"
The perpetual calendar that Tobita had been planning since the brand was founded has finally been realized. The excellent legibility brought about by Kano's engraving is a highlight. The story of how the search for the use of a Dubois-Dépraz module led to the creation of the Hubring II is also fascinating. This is a masterpiece.
Manual winding (Cal. 3025PC). 19 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 37mm, thickness 11.5mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Sold out. (Inquiries) NH WATCH https://naoyahidawatch.com/
5. Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA SLGB003"
This is a masterpiece that achieves extraordinary accuracy of ±20 seconds per year, far exceeding daily and monthly accuracy. The name, which is reminiscent of the old "VFA," is also a big attraction for enthusiasts. The fact that "UFA" stands for "Accuracy" as opposed to "Adjusted" in "VFA" is also appealing.
Spring Drive automatic movement (Cal. 9RB2). 34 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 37.0 mm, thickness 11.4 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,518,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617
General comment
The biggest event in 2025 is undoubtedly Breguet's 250th anniversary. The "Classique Subscription 2025," which symbolizes this, is also the model that represents 2025, and is an undisputed winner! I think it will be a masterpiece that will be talked about for 10, 20, and 30 years to come. Breguet also released a series of commemorative models, and there are many other models that I would like to include in the top five. Audemars Piguet also released several ambitious works to celebrate its 150th anniversary, and there are also other models that I would like to include.
I did not include the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller because I did not have direct contact with the actual watch, but it will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of the year.
Other items include the 34mm model of A. Lange & Söhne's "1815," the Cartier "Tank Française Skeleton Watch," the Chopard "Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum," the Girard-Perregaux "Laureato Fifty," the IWC "Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41," the Jaeger-LeCoultre "Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Second" with a Milanese bracelet, the Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar," and the Otsuka Low-Tec "No. 5 Modified." There are many other attractive new models that I personally would like to own. It was quite difficult to choose.
Selector Profile
福田豊
Writer and editor. Originally an architect, he moved into publishing through a series of unexpected events. After working in advertising sales and the editorial department of Esquire Japan, he is now in his current position. He writes about men's lifestyles in general, including fashion, watches, cars, and travel, for magazines such as LEON, ENGINE, GQ, and Chronos Japan, as well as on the web. He is in charge of watches for the web magazine FORZA STYLE. He is currently appearing in the video series "Rock Fukuda's Watch Spirit!"https://www.instagram.com/fukuda1959/?hl=ja
