This is an annual end-of-year project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2025. This time, we will introduce the watches selected by Norio Takagi, one of the watch industry's leading theorists. The top pick is the new Audemars Piguet Chronograph, which Takagi even said has changed the conventional wisdom about chronographs. Other watches he mentioned include the A. Lange & Söhne 1815, which has attracted attention for its smaller diameter, and the Otsuka Low-Tec No. 5 Kai.
1st Place: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (RD#5) "150th Anniversary"
When was the last time a chronograph mechanism was revolutionized on such a large scale? The application of the rack and pinion was an eye-opener. I was ashamed of myself for never questioning the mechanism of the reset mechanism, which involves hitting the heart cam with a hammer.
Automatic winding (Cal. 8100). 44 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Titanium and BMG case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 2 bar. Limited to 150 pieces worldwide. Price inquiries required. (Inquiries) Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000
2nd place: A. Lange & Söhne "1815"
This watch epitomizes this year's trends: classic, thin, small diameter, and blue. The new Cal. L152.1 movement, which fits into a case measuring 34mm in diameter and 6.4mm thick, still manages to run for approximately 72 hours, which is impressive. I also like the blue hue.
Manual winding (Cal. L152.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 34.0 mm, thickness 6.4 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
3rd place: Audemars Piguet "New Perpetual Calendars in General"
When selecting a watch for a ranking like this, I have made it a rule to choose one watch per brand, but along with the aforementioned "RD#5," I just couldn't leave this one out. It's a triumph of design, with the crown-operated perpetual calendar being the first to be revolutionized in 40 years.
Automatic movement (Cal. 7138). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18K sand gold case (diameter 41mm, thickness 9.5mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price inquiries required. (Inquiries) Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000
4. Breguet "Classique 5177" Ref. 55177BR/2N/9V602
This watch ushered in a reevaluation of the classic black dial watch. The texture of the Grand Feu enamel and the depth of the black are impeccable. The decision to remove the date display was also a bold one. It brought a noble elegance to the gold and black watch.
Automatic movement (Cal. 7775). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 38mm, thickness 8.8mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 4,224,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
5th place: Otsuka Lowtec "No. 5 Kai"
I had been interested in this watch ever since I saw the prototype when I visited the workshop, and as soon as the release was announced, I bought it immediately. The mechanism and design are extremely unique, and it's a real joy to wear. The satisfaction I get from it far outweighs the price.
Automatic winding (Cal. MIYOTA90S5 + in-house satellite hour module). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. SS case (diameter 40.5 mm, thickness 7.6 mm). Water resistant for everyday use. 748,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Otsuka Lotec https://otsukalotec.base.shop/
General comment
I had a really hard time narrowing it down to five watches. This year's new releases were truly masterpieces. As previously reported, trends such as a return to classic styles, smaller diameters, thinner designs, and blue are all trending. In the latter half of the year, a new trend has emerged: the rise of black dials on classic watches, which had previously been rare.
In terms of mechanisms, there seemed to be more perpetual calendars than usual. While I chose Audemars Piguet for its innovativeness, Parmigiani Fleurier's "Trick Perpetual Calendar" and NAOYA HIDA & Co.'s "NH TYPE 6A" were also perfectly suited to my personal tastes. This year, disc displays, such as those found on Cartier's "Tank à Guichet" and Louis Vuitton's "Tambour Convergence," also drew renewed attention. Among these, the most unique was Otsuka Low-Tech's "No. 5 Kai," the first Japanese-made watch to feature satellite hours.
As these examples symbolize, the creations of non-specialized watch brands and micro-maisons are becoming increasingly sophisticated and attracting attention. Japanese manufacturers also produced impressive pieces, such as Grand Seiko's "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA," which achieves ultra-high precision of ±20 seconds per year, and Credor's "Gold Feather Tourbillon GBCF999," which combines an ultra-thin tourbillon with the aesthetics of artisanship. After much deliberation, our top pick is Audemars Piguet's "Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (RD#5) "150th Anniversary." This watch revolutionizes the chronograph's reset mechanism and operability, making it worthy of being called an outstanding masterpiece in recent years.
Selector Profile
Norio Takagi
A watch journalist, he is one of the industry's leading theorists, and his articles are captivating, backed by the knowledge he gained in the Faculty of Engineering and his overwhelming experience in reporting. His extensive knowledge and sharp perspectives are used to write articles for watch magazines, as well as watch features in general magazines and beginner-friendly articles in newspapers. He has published two introductory books on mechanical watches, "How Wristwatches Work" and "The World's Easiest Guide to How Wristwatches Work [Complex Watches Edition]," both published by Sekai Bunka Publishing.
