This is an annual end-of-year project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2025. This time, watch writer Masaharu Nabata picks out the models that have caught his eye. His selections, which include the first Porsche Design revival and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with a Milanese bracelet, are truly impressive for a connoisseur.
Zenith "GFJ"
Zenith's Cal. 135 is a masterpiece caliber that watch enthusiasts covet, and it was an unfulfilled dream to one day own one. I never dreamed that it would be reissued, but I am truly happy that it has become a reality. However, due to its price, it remains a dream within a dream...
Manual winding (Cal. 135). 18,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.15 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 6,952,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
As a fan of the 1970s Porsche Design "Military Chronograph," I applaud the decision to create a titanium version that retains the same design. It's amazing how the exterior design remains relevant even after decades.
Porsche Design "Chronograph 1 –1975 Limited Edition"
Automatic movement (Cal. WERK 01.240). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Ti case (diameter 40.8 mm, thickness 14.15 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. (Inquiries) German Watch Tel. 03-6277-4139
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
This watch is an outstanding example of the use of pink gold. The case, dial, indexes, hands, and bracelet are all unified in pink gold, creating a sophisticated look without being overly flashy. The fine mesh Milanese bracelet is particularly beautiful.
Manual winding (Cal. 822). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. 18KPG case (45.6mm x 27.4mm, 7.56mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 6.6 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833
Chopard "LUC Quattro-Mark IV" Ref. 161954-9001
While it may seem like an extremely simple three-hand model with a small second hand, this calendar watch actually features a pointer date display on the same axis as the small second hand at 6 o'clock, which is a clever touch. The pale blue dial, which conveys a delicate texture, is also beautiful.
Manual winding (Cal. LUC 98.09-L). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 216 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.00 mm, thickness 10.40 mm). Water resistant to 30 m. 7,810,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Chopard Japan Press Tel. 03-5524-8922
Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar" Ref. PFH952-2010002-300181
Parmigiani Fleurier's new perpetual calendar consolidates all calendar displays into just two subdials, achieving a perpetual calendar with extremely minimal elements. When you look at this watch, the word "tranquility" naturally comes to mind.
Manual winding (Cal. PF733). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.6 mm, thickness 10.9 mm). Water resistant to 30 m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. (Inquiries) pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
General comment
It seems to me that the nature of luxury watches has been changing in recent years. It's hard to put into words exactly how, but as prices continue to rise, the number of models that ordinary people can afford if they put in a little effort is decreasing, and luxury watches have become something that only a select few wealthy people can acquire as part of their assets or as part of a money game. As someone in a position to introduce watches, I can't help but feel that it's becoming more difficult to interact with them in the same way as before.
This raises a simple question: what role should we, writers and journalists who make a living by reviewing and introducing watches, play? It also leaves me feeling a certain emptiness. That said, the watch world is constantly seeing models that catch my eye, and wonderful models that make me think, "I'd love to own one if I could," so I can't afford to let my guard down. This is what's causing me so much stress.
The five models listed here are the ones that caught my eye or left a strong impression on me among the models announced in 2025. If I think about it more deeply, five models simply aren't enough, but I've chosen five models for the time being, following the constraint of a "best five." I'm sure I'll regret it later, thinking, "I wish I'd introduced that one too!"
Selector Profile
Directed by Yuko Kikuchi
Nahata politics
He is the editor-in-chief of Gressive, a website introducing authorized retailers of brand-name watches, and a leading watch journalist in Japan. He has been covering large-scale Swiss watch exhibitions since 1994, and his insights are unparalleled in the industry. In addition to writing feature articles for the Japanese edition of Chronos, he also serves as a judge for the "Chronos Top 10 Ranking" at the end of the issue. In recent years, he has switched from being a dog lover to a cat lover (though he also loves dogs, of course). He is the co-author of "The Story of Cartier Watches."
