This is an annual end-of-year project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2025. This time, Hodinkee Japan editor-in-chief Masaru Sekiguchi chose watches that reflect "new trends and more emotional watches." The list includes models that shine with unique perspectives, such as Breguet, which has remained true to its classic style, and Cartier's large Santos de Cartier, which seems to buck the trend.
Cartier "Santos de Cartier" Ref.CRWSSA0089
This modern redesign of the Santos de Cartier watch features titanium with a textured finish and screw design reminiscent of Santos-Dumont's Dumoiselle. While made from Grade 5 ELI, it has a matte finish, creating a striking contrast with the polished finish. Cartier has skillfully captured the unique qualities of titanium, a material not typically used for its functionality.
Automatic winding (Cal. 1847 MC). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Ti case (47.5mm x 39.8mm, 9.38mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. 1,887,600 yen (tax included). Scheduled for release in November 2025. (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00
Hermes "Hermès Cut Tanchouspondieu"
The Tenche Spondieu, revived after 14 years, is a mechanism I love because it is so typical of Hermès. The pusher at 8 o'clock allows you to switch to a time that is completely unrelated to the current time, allowing you to forget about time for a moment. It's like a modern mechanical watch.
Automatic winding (Cal. H1912). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 39mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. (Tax included). (Inquiries) Hermès Japon Tel. 03-3569-3300
Breguet Classique 7235
This is one of the 250th anniversary models inspired by the 1794 "No. 5." The Breguet gold dial and exquisite guilloched pattern are impressive, but the case side has also evolved from a coin edge to a Quai de l'Horloge pattern. It evokes the luxury of mechanical watches that flourished in the 1960s and 70s.
Automatic movement (Cal. 502.3.DRL). 37 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18K Breguet gold case (diameter 39mm, thickness 9.9mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. 10,945,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
Seiko "King Seiko Bannack"
This is a revival of a model that was only produced for a few years starting in 1972. It's a 41mm diameter and heavyweight watch, a counter-trend approach, but it's comfortable to wear. I applaud King Seiko for exploring options for the next generation with this new series.
Automatic winding. (Cal. 8L45) 35 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (45.1mm long, 41.0mm wide, 14.3mm thick). 10 bar water resistance. 396,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012
NAOYA HIDA&Co. “NH TYPE 6A”
This marks the achievement of Japan's first mechanical perpetual calendar (QP). 2025 was a QP war, with so many excellent models lined up, but I'm impressed by the watch's ability to stick to the classic style and fit it into a compact 37mm case, which would be difficult to achieve by the quality standards of major manufacturers.
Manual winding (Cal. 3025PC). 19 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 37 mm, thickness 11.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 8,250,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) https://naoyahidawatch.com/
General comment
2025 is a once-in-a-decade anniversary year, and there were many watches that deserved to be mentioned. While I left the classics to my predecessors, such as the Cartier Tank à Guichet, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, and Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 6159, I tried to select watches that reflect new trends and are more emotional.
Nowadays, small, classic watches are popular, and in some ways we are entering a conservative era. In this context, the King Seiko "Banack" was launched in a deliberately large size, and the Cartier "Santos de Cartier" was developed in an LM size. Initially, I felt a little uncomfortable, wondering, "Why this size?" However, the results of careful adjustments have led to a comfortable fit, and I imagine that the swing back to larger watches may be unexpectedly quick.
And even in classic styles, Breguet and Naoya Hida & Co. have strongly emphasized emotional value. Since the COVID-19 pandemic, popularity has focused on sporty watches, and the number of luxuriously crafted classic watches has not increased significantly. While still small, there is certainly an increase in such striking timepieces. Their craftsmanship resembles the dress watches of the 1960s and 1970s, which many enthusiasts have become fascinated by, and the mechanical watch revival period from the 1990s onwards that modeled on that era. They exude a sense of splendor rather than efficiency, which is extremely luxurious. Finally, as a personal preference, I always recommend originality like that of Hermès. Using mechanical mechanisms in a unique way to appeal to the emotions is something only mechanical watches can do.
Selector Profile
Yu Sekiguchi
Editor-in-Chief of Hodinkee Japan and Richesse Digital. Born in 1984. After serving as editor-in-chief of WatchNavi, he became editor-in-chief of Hodinkee Japan in 2019. Since 23, he has also served as editor-in-chief of Richesse Digital, the online media for Richesse, a high-quality luxury-themed magazine.
