In this series, prominent watch journalists highlight their "most interesting" and "recommended" new models released in 2025. This time, freelance editor and writer Yoshiko Agata shouts out, "I really want this!!!" It's the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, introduced in 2025, the 150th anniversary of Audemars Piguet's founding, with its groundbreaking "all-in-one" crown.
Photograph & Text by Yoshiko Agata
[Article published on January 29, 2025]
I desperately want it!!! "Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar"
The webChronos editorial team asked me to "tell us your top picks for 2025," and I thought back to the many new models I saw this year...and sure enough, there was one. There was a watch that I desperately wanted! I'd like to write about that particular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (the one with a 38mm case diameter, not the 41mm one).
A perpetual calendar with full functionality
As many of you know, 2025 marks the 150th anniversary of Audemars Piguet's founding. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, featuring a completely new "all-in-one" crown, was announced in February as one of the first new models for 2025, drawing attention from watch industry insiders since the previous year.
Hakase has already given a detailed introduction to this model, so if you want to know more about its mechanism, please click here (http://www.webchronos.net/features/132735/) please read it.
The greatest feature of the automatic perpetual calendar movement, Cal. 7138, which took five years to develop, is that the date, month, day and week display, and moon phase display can be adjusted individually by turning the crown. The ease and fun of being able to operate the functions using only the crown, as well as the excellent feel, have been met with rave reviews from many watch writers.
Many perpetual calendars currently on the market are not expected to require adjustment until February 28, 2100, an exceptionally normal year according to the Gregorian calendar. However, this only applies if the watch is kept running. If the watch is not worn for even three days, the calendar will be out of sync the next time it is used. Watch connoisseurs sometimes jokingly say, "A perpetual calendar that's out of sync is proof that you own multiple watches," but if you've gone to the trouble of buying one, it's best to be able to make full use of its functions. This is why the satisfaction of owning a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, with its focus on ease of use, is likely to be extremely high.
My recommendation is the compact 38mm diameter model.
However, the model I would like to recommend this time is the 38mm case diameter model announced in the fall. Speaking personally, although I write about watches, as a regular person, complicated watches are beyond my reach, and being lazy, I don't feel like I could master their mechanisms. So, while I do admire the ingenuity of the mechanisms, it somehow feels like something that doesn't concern me. But even someone like me would want to wear the 38mm Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.
Automatic movement (Cal. 7136). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18KPG case (38mm diameter, 9.4mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 150 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.
This model doesn't seem to have been as much of a topic as the 41mm model. In my case, it was only introduced as a bonus when I went to see the "Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (RD#5) "150th Anniversary" (laughs).
However, it was clear at a glance that this was not simply a downsizing. By removing the week display from the inside cover, the dial impression is suddenly cleaner, and the beauty of the Grand Tapisserie decoration stands out. Everyone has their own preferences, but I thought this was definitely the one. I was also impressed by Audemars Piguet's speed in releasing size variations about six months after the first release (although perhaps they deliberately did not release both sizes at the same time).
This perpetual calendar is sure to be easy to use every day and is a joy to operate. And of course, it's comfortable to wear. It fits the recent trend toward smaller diameter watches, and its size makes it perfect for both men and women with smaller wrists, making it a great choice for sharing with a partner.
However, in my case, I have one serious problem: I don't have the money to buy one. So, I would like to ask all watch enthusiasts with deep pockets to take a good look at this 38mm case model and purchase one for me... (I'm also looking forward to receiving gifts in case of an emergency, haha).
