We take a closer look at one of the new watches for 2025 that caught our eye. Watch writer Tsubasa Nojima focuses on the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, which commemorates the 50th anniversary of the founding of the select shop SHIPS.
Photographs & Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 30, 2025]
There are many new releases that catch my eye, but I'm drawn to watches that are within my reach.
Many new watches were announced for 2025. Perhaps due to the fact that several brands were celebrating anniversaries this year in particular, each company released a flurry of enthusiastic new models. Breguet released a 250th anniversary model inspired by an archive piece, Patek Philippe released a regular model of the Grand Complication, Audemars Piguet released a groundbreaking perpetual calendar that can be operated entirely with just the crown, and Rolex released the Land-Dweller equipped with the newly developed Chronergy escapement...the momentum seems even stronger than usual.
Among the many masterpieces in the 2025 new releases, if I had to choose one that caught my eye, it would be Hamilton's Khaki Field Mechanical. While the new Khaki models include a 40mm case model with a power reserve indicator and a special model sold exclusively at the Hamilton flagship store, Hamilton Store Tokyo Cat Street, the one I'd like to focus on here is a three-hand model made to order by select shop SHIPS.
Naturally, I'm also interested in the high-end models mentioned above. However, as someone who has ventured into the world of writing from a pure watch lover's perspective, I'm drawn to models that are actually more accessible, both in price and other factors. With new brands entering the market one after another, there are many attractive watches in the entry- to mid-range that require uniqueness while maintaining an affordable price range, even if they don't get much attention. The Khaki Field Mecha is one of them.
The "Khaki Field Mecha" was released as a special order model for SHIPS. It features a navy blue dial, the company's corporate color. It has a manual winding (Cal. H-50) movement, 17 jewels, 21,600 vph, and a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It has a stainless steel case (38mm diameter, 9.5mm thick). It's water resistant to 5 bar. It's priced at 89,100 yen (tax included).
Special model commemorating SHIPS' 50th anniversary
The official name of the model featured this time is the "Khaki Field Mecha SHIPS 50th Anniversary Edition." It is based on the basic Khaki Field Mecha, with a 38mm stainless steel case, a no-date dial, and a manual-winding movement. As this is a special order model, it is not listed on Hamilton's official website or catalog, but can be purchased at SHIPS stores or the official online store.
Let's briefly touch on the collaboration partners. SHIPS is a select shop that originated as MIURA & SONS, which opened in Shibuya in 1975. Its founder was Yoshitetsu Miura. A former teacher, he retired in 1970 and took over Miura Shoten in Ameyoko, Ueno, from his mother, changing the name to MIURA. With his keen eye for quality, Miura, which handled imported American fashion items, garnered strong support from fans. This success led to the establishment of MIURA & SONS in 1975. SHIPS' first store, the Ginza store, opened in 1977. Since then, SHIPS has expanded its branches across the country and established itself as one of Japan's leading select shops.
Of note is the revival of the old logo.
This year, SHIPS, celebrating its 50th anniversary, released a number of commemorative items, including blazers and leather shoes. One of these is the Khaki Field Mecha. Its most distinctive feature is the navy blue dial, which is SHIPS' corporate color. While the regular model also has a blue dial, the navy blue of this model is several levels deeper and more subdued. It is paired with a navy blue NATO-type strap that harmonizes with the dial.
The index is a 24-hour type with 1 to 12 large on the outside and 13 to 24 small on the inside. These Arabic numerals are printed in white, but the outer 1 to 12 numbers have a thick layer of paint, making them appear puffy.
The triangles every five minutes on the minute markers and the hour, minute, and second hands are coated with vintage-colored luminous paint, which glows in the dark. Personally, I'm not a big fan of "artificial" luminous paint that simulates discoloration over time, but I welcome it on this model. The dial, with its large, thick Arabic numerals, is packed with information and can be a bit cluttered. The beige luminous paint creates a contrast, allowing you to instantly read the time without any distractions.
What attracted me most was the use of the old logo. Details reminiscent of the khaki of the 1960s, such as the italicized "HAMILTON" and "Khaki" at 6 o'clock, are not available on the current regular model. I don't know how they ended up using the old logo, but I'm sure there are many fans who have been waiting for it.
Although it is a special order model, there is no indication of this on the dial. The case back is engraved with the words "for SHIPS," but to see this you have to remove the watch from your wrist and partially remove the pull-through strap.
Hamilton's Khaki Field Mechanical: A New Look
The Khaki Field Mechanical, a long-standing member of the Hamilton collection, is a rare find as a genuine hand-wound watch available for under 10 yen. It maintains the most basic function of a watch—displaying the time—while offering the joy of operating a hand-wound watch. This model strikes a balance between practicality and affluence, making it a perfect choice for everyday use, and clearly demonstrates the value of choosing a mechanical movement in an age where accurate quartz movements are readily available.
Winding a manual movement is a blissful experience for watch enthusiasts, but only if you have the mental and time resources to do so. When you're in a hurry, even winding can often feel like a hassle. With this watch, you won't have to worry. With a power reserve of approximately 80 hours, you can keep it running for a day or two without winding. The moment you turn the crown to wind the mainspring should be a rich experience. If you feel obligated to do so, it can quickly become suffocating. Some argue that a long power reserve isn't necessary for a manual-wind watch, but for these reasons, I personally disagree.
The Khaki Field Mecha offers the full appeal of a hand-wound watch, despite its modest price. This special edition from SHIPS, featuring a navy blue dial and the classic logo, is a highly recommended piece that offers a special feel not found in the regular model. While it may not have the impact of a new release, it's sure to provide a long-lasting sense of satisfaction.
