What is "quartz"? Things you should know before buying a watch

Quartz watches are a familiar presence, but there aren't many opportunities to learn about their history or how they work. So, in this article, we'll explain quartz watches and introduce three masterpieces.

What does "quartz" mean, a term often heard in relation to wristwatches?

　Quartz watches are often considered the counterpart to mechanical watches. While mechanical watches seem to dominate the world of luxury watches, quartz watches far outnumber the overall production volume, making them the mainstream movement system for modern watches. According to the "2024 Global Watch and Clock Production (Estimated)" published by the Japan Clock & Watch Association, quartz watches, both analog and digital, will account for approximately 97% of all wristwatches produced worldwide in 2024. While quartz watches are a common and familiar presence, their history and mechanisms are rarely discussed. So, in this article, we'll take a closer look at what a quartz watch is.

　Most mechanical watches keep time by converting the power of the mainspring into a constant rhythm using an escapement, which combines a hairspring, balance wheel, anchor, and escape wheel. The number of times the anchor oscillates during this process is called the frequency, and the higher the frequency, the stronger the resistance to external disturbances and, theoretically, the better the accuracy. As mechanical watches matured, manufacturers focused on developing high-beat movements in order to achieve even greater accuracy.

　Along with the trend toward higher precision, wristwatches also saw a wave of electronics. In 1957, Hamilton released the world's first battery-powered wristwatch, the Ventura, and in 1960, Bulova released the tuning fork wristwatch, the Accutron. The Accutron in particular was a groundbreaking wristwatch that achieved high accuracy of ±2 seconds per day by using sympathetic vibrations generated by a tuning fork at a high frequency of 360 vibrations per second.

　Even higher precision was achieved by quartz watches, which take advantage of the properties of quartz crystals, which vibrate precisely when voltage is applied. Quartz clocks themselves appeared in 1927, but because they required huge housings, the volume needed to be reduced to one-300,000th of the original size in order to make them into wristwatches, while still incorporating components such as a battery and quartz oscillator.

　Seiko (Suwa Seikosha) of Japan was the first in the world to achieve this and mass-produce it. After overcoming numerous hurdles, including miniaturization and power saving, the company released the Quartz Astron on December 25, 1969, creating a major milestone in the history of watches, known as the quartz revolution. The Quartz Astron's vibration frequency was 8,192 vibrations per second, while the current standard for quartz watches is 32,768 vibrations per second. This was a literally exceptionally high frequency compared to mechanical and tuning fork watches.

Advantages and disadvantages of quartz watches

　Quartz watches have unparalleled accuracy thanks to the high vibrations generated by their quartz crystal oscillators. However, their merits extend beyond accuracy. They also have high resistance to magnetism and shock, which are considered taboo in wristwatches.

　In mechanical watches, accuracy deteriorates when magnetism is applied to the balance spring, which is one of the components that make up the regulating mechanism and is made of an alloy containing iron. Furthermore, this magnetism can only be eliminated by using a special demagnetizer. However, even if a quartz watch is exposed to magnetism, it has less impact on accuracy than a mechanical watch, and in many cases, the hands will resume accurate movement once the watch is away from the magnetism. Unless the magnetism is extremely strong, there is no need to worry excessively about magnetism with a quartz watch.

　When a mechanical watch's regulating mechanism is subjected to shock, it can break the balance, the hairspring can become tangled, or the regulator can become misaligned, resulting in a loss of accuracy or even a malfunction of the watch itself. However, quartz watches, which use a quartz oscillator and motor, do not have a balance and, with the exception of some movements, do not have a regulator, so the impact of shock is limited compared to mechanical watches.

On the other hand, quartz watches have their own disadvantages. One of them is that they have less torque than mechanical watches. This makes it difficult to move large, thick hands, which is a disadvantage in watches such as divers' watches that require high visibility.

Another disadvantage is that the watch will completely stop functioning if the battery runs out. Quartz movements are powered by applying voltage to a quartz oscillator and are battery-powered. Therefore, they will stop working when the battery runs out. Although this varies depending on the movement, the battery generally needs to be replaced every two years or ten years at most. While it is possible to replace the battery yourself, doing so carelessly could damage the case or movement. It is best to have it done by a specialist. Some movements have a function that notifies you when the battery is about to run out by moving the second hand.

　To overcome this disadvantage, there are also options such as light-powered movements and movements called auto-quartz or kinetic movements that generate power through the rotation of a rotor. These do not require periodic battery replacement, so they can basically be used maintenance-free. However, it is important to note that even in these cases, the secondary battery may need to be replaced due to deterioration.

　There are also several other disadvantages, such as the fact that the frequency of the quartz oscillator fluctuates with temperature changes, leading to loss or gain in accuracy, and that many movements have a structure that makes them difficult to repair.

A masterpiece that takes advantage of the strengths of quartz watches and overcomes their drawbacks

　Quartz watches are more accurate, magnetically resistant, and shock-resistant than mechanical watches. Here we introduce three masterpieces that take advantage of these advantages while also overcoming their disadvantages.

Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection" Ref. SBGX355

　Grand Seiko's Cal. 9F is truly worthy of being called the ultimate quartz movement. This model is equipped with the compact Cal. 9F62. It uses a quartz oscillator that has been carefully selected through three months of aging, and performs temperature measurement and temperature correction 540 times per day, achieving high accuracy of ±10 seconds per year.

　To rotate the large, thick hands that are characteristic of Grand Seiko, the watch is equipped with a twin pulse control motor that moves the hands two steps per second, a three-axis independent guide structure that ensures smooth hand movement, and a backlash auto-adjust mechanism that suppresses vibrations in the second hand, allowing you to enjoy the movement of the hands that are characteristic of a high-end watch.

　It is also equipped with many mechanisms that enhance its practicality, such as a mechanism for fine-tuning accuracy using a regulator switch, which is rare for a quartz watch, a super-shield cabin that prevents dust from entering and improves oil retention, and an instantaneous date change calendar that instantly changes the date just after midnight.

The "Ref. SBGX355" features a dial embossed with a snow-white pattern. The motif is the delicate wind patterns that emerge on the surface of windblown snow. This represents the winter scenery of the Hotaka mountain range as seen from the Shinshu Toki no Takumi Atelier, where Grand Seiko quartz models are manufactured.

　The case and bracelet are made of bright titanium, a shining white titanium alloy. In addition to being lightweight and comfortable to wear, it is more scratch-resistant than regular titanium. Another attractive feature is the modest size of the case, measuring just 37mm in diameter.

The Citizen "AQ4091-56M"

　The Citizen's light-powered Eco-Drive model boasts high accuracy of ±5 seconds per year. The light-powered function eliminates the need for regular battery changes, and it also features a perpetual calendar that distinguishes between the length of the month and leap years to display the correct date, a midnight calendar update function that instantly changes the date, and Perfex, which detects and corrects hand misalignment due to shock.

　Light-powered Eco-Drive is a system that generates power by shining light on a solar cell. Typically, the solar cell is placed under the dial, which requires the dial to be made of a highly transparent material such as resin. This meant that metal dials could not be used, and so it was thought to be unsuitable for luxury watches, but The Citizen's washi dial models have overturned this conventional wisdom. Washi paper, which allows light to pass through thinly and reveals delicate patterns, is the perfect material for combining functionality and aesthetics, as well as the distinctiveness of a Japanese brand.

　The paper used for this piece is Tosa Washi, one of Japan's three major washi papers. By combining it with indigo dyeing, a Japanese dyeing technique, a deep color is achieved. The indigo dyeing was done by Kenta Watanabe of Watanabe's, a workshop in Tokushima Prefecture. In order to achieve a uniform color on the thin, delicate washi paper, artisanal skills are utilized in each process, such as making adjustments based on the temperature, humidity, and condition of the indigo dye liquid on the day.

　The 40mm case and bracelet are made of Super Titanium, a titanium material treated with Duratect, a proprietary surface hardening technology. Compared to stainless steel, it is 40% lighter and boasts a surface five times harder. The edgy, sharp design and crown guard create a dynamic impression, while the alternating polished and hairline finishes of the bracelet add a touch of elegance.

Cartier Tank Must Ref.WSTA0054

　The Tank is Cartier's signature rectangular watch. The Tank Must, part of the collection, is a relatively new series that was launched in 2021. Its roots date back to the Must de Tank, released in 1977, and this model inherits many of its characteristics, including a rounded case shape and unique colored dials.

　The dial is burgundy with a lacquered finish. It features the Cartier brand logo, but lacks the Tank's signature Roman numeral indexes and railway minute track. It has only two hands for the hours and minutes.

　This watch is also a good example of the affinity between dress watches and quartz movements. Many watch enthusiasts are concerned about the step-movement of quartz watches. However, with this two-hand watch, there is no need to worry about the movement of the second hand or the misalignment of the minute track and the second hand. While a second hand and minute track are essential elements in a practical watch, they are not necessary for a dress watch like this one, which prioritizes design.

　Furthermore, dress watches often have thin, delicate hour and minute hands that can be easily rotated with the torque of a quartz movement. Even if you don't wear your watch on a daily basis, you can take it out and use it immediately when you need to without having to adjust the time, which is reassuring.

　The stainless steel case features a linear design incorporating the Art Deco style characteristic of the Tank. The tip of the pearl-adorned crown is set with a synthetic spinel. The alligator leather strap, which matches the color of the dial, is fitted with a classic Ardiron buckle. Another attractive feature is the interchangeable system, which allows the case and strap to be separated with a single touch.

　This watch is equipped with a highly efficient quartz movement that boasts a long lifespan of approximately eight years, meaning the battery does not need to be replaced as frequently, reducing the effort and costs involved in maintenance.