Breitling's "Dressy Instrument" in Hand: A Wear Review of the "Navitimer Automatic 36"

The 36mm Navitimer Automatic 36 joins Breitling's Navitimer line in 2023. I spent a week wearing a model from this collection with a silver dial and burgundy strap, and here's my review. This watch subtly dresses up the Navitimer instrument, and its character will likely expand the brand's reach to a new demographic while also capturing the hearts of existing Breitling fans.

I tried wearing Breitling's Navitimer Automatic 36!

　Many users probably have the impression that Breitling is a maker of "instrument-like watches," with large, robust-looking cases and dials featuring scales for measuring values ​​other than time. However, since Georges Kern became CEO in 2017, the brand's "instruments" have been refined. The Navitimer is one collection that best reflects this change.

　The Navitimer, a pilot's watch, is a familiar name to any Breitling fan. The collection, which first released its first model in 1952, is now known as Breitling's signature watch, thanks to its iconic style featuring a chronograph and a circular slide rule for pilots. However, in 2018, a simpler version without a chronograph or circular slide rule was released. Since then, both the classic Navitimer (though models without a chronograph were apparently present in the early Navitimers of the 1950s) and later Navitimers have graced the collection, but modern variations have also been introduced, such as models with dials in nuanced colors with strong sunray patterns and smaller cases.

　The model I wore for a week this time was the Navitimer Automatic 36, a modern Navitimer with a 36mm case, a new size added in 2023.

　This model features an elegant silver dial with gold-colored hands and indices, and an eye-catching burgundy strap. Since 2017, Breitling has focused on refinement and product development targeting women, which is especially pleasing for me as a woman. The Navitimer has long been one of my favorite watches, but it was always too big for my wrist. I recall briefly considering purchasing the Montbrillant, a derivative model of the Navitimer, in a 38mm case, but it was discontinued and I struggled to find a good one. Then, in 2020, the 35mm Navitimer was released, and I was both surprised and delighted to see the compact Navitimer. The current Navitimer models below 40mm are only available in 36mm and 32mm.

　As an aside, when I consulted Breitling Japan about the subject matter of this wear review, they suggested several models. I was undecided, but the burgundy strap was the deciding factor, and I chose this model. While the Navitimer is often available with brown or black straps, I felt that this burgundy strap was original and softened the Navitimer's instrument-like design. A female watch enthusiast I'm friendly with is also currently ordering this burgundy strap for her Navitimer Automatic 36. The combination of burgundy and Navitimer is just great.

Needless to say, this is a perfect watch for practical use.

　I wore the Navitimer Automatic 36 for a week. It goes without saying that Breitling is an exceptional brand when it comes to creating practical watches, and this model continues to showcase the brand's strengths.

　First, let's talk about the wearing comfort. This model's case diameter is 36mm and thickness is 11.42mm, which is smaller than previous Navitimers, but by no means small. In fact, it would be on the larger side for a women's watch. However, it is by no means uncomfortable to wear. This is probably because the total length of the case from lug to lug is kept to a mere 41.77mm, and it's not too heavy. The official weight is 60g.

　Visibility is also good. This model features a silver dial with gold-colored hands and indices. Because the gold is a pale pink gold color, I was concerned that it might get lost in the silver of the dial under strong light sources. The indices in particular are slender, giving it a dressy impression, but also making it difficult to read. However, the indices are three-dimensional and polished along with the hands, so they sparkle outdoors, not only making them easy to read, but also making a statement on the wrist. The red tip of the second hand also contributes to intuitive ease of viewing.

　However, because the second hand did not reach the outer scale, it took some getting used to in order to accurately check the seconds. Of course, this is because the outer dial has a slide rule scale, and I got used to it as I used it, but I wasn't confident in accurately setting the seconds, so I didn't measure the accuracy this time.

　Although I didn't measure the accuracy precisely, there was no significant deviation after wearing it for 10-15 hours a day for three days (I set it precisely to the seconds when I first started using it, and after 72 hours it was about +3 seconds), indicating that the winding efficiency is excellent. The automatic movement installed in this watch is the Cal. 17. Because it is based on a general-purpose movement, the power reserve is about 38 hours, which is short by modern standards, but as mentioned above, the mainspring was wound well during use, and the operation was good, so I didn't feel any inconvenience.

　The watch is only water resistant to 3 atmospheres, so caution is required, especially in the summer, when exposed to sudden rain, or when washing the watch by hand, especially since it has a leather strap.

Combines instrumental feel with dress style

　As mentioned at the beginning, the Navitimer's rotary slide rule gives it a design that resembles an instrument, which is one of Breitling's defining characteristics. While maintaining this instrumental feel, I felt that the watch's clever fusion with a dressy and elegant style is its greatest defining feature and beauty through wearing it.

　For example, the beaded decorations around the outer periphery of the rotating bezel and the simple brand logo consisting of only a wingless "B" express the classic, minimalist character of a dress watch. As exemplified by the slender bar indexes and thin lugs, the Navitimer collection is inherently elegant, in contrast to the sporty impression of the Chronomat and Superocean. Perhaps because it targets women, the Navitimer has been made even more elegant and dressy.

　There aren't many watches that skillfully combine an instrumental feel with a dressy style like this (to begin with, there aren't many "instrumental watches" that aren't tools). The character in this work, which is both an instrument and a dressy watch, skillfully captures the need to "choose from a popular brand, but also want a watch that's different from others." As a luxury watch that is not eccentric but is full of originality, it can be said to have established a solid individuality that is not found in other brands.

The Navitimer: a dressy instrument

　We reviewed Breitling's Navitimer Automatic 36.

　Although I am a woman wearing this watch, which combines the character of an instrument-like watch with a dressy element, the case is not too small and it also features a circular slide rule, a feature of the Navitimer, so I would recommend it to existing Breitling fans, most of whom are men. This dressy instrument would fit easily under the cuff of a business suit and would look elegant. If you find the burgundy strap a bit too feminine, you can change it to a brown or gray alligator strap, available separately.

Breitling has expanded its customer base through its refinement. 2026 has just begun, and we are sure that a variety of models will be released. I would also like to add that this watch makes us look forward to the future.