What about Breitling as your first luxury watch? Introducing its appeal and recommended models [Beginner's Edition]

Breitling is often mentioned as one of the most iconic watch brands. The company has produced reliable watches that have been favored by professionals, and they are also a great choice for first luxury watches. We will look back on the brand's history and introduce some recommended models.

What kind of brand is Breitling?

　Breitling is one of Japan's major watch brands. The company originated in 1884 as a small workshop opened by Léon Breitling in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. The company's focus on manufacturing pocket watches with chronograph mechanisms met the needs of the time, which increasingly required precise timekeeping in science, sports, and other fields. The company gradually grew, and in 1892 expanded its business to its new base in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

　Gaston Breitling, who took over the company as the second president in 1914, introduced chronographs with functions such as tachymeters, counters, and split-seconds, further developing the chronograph manufacturing technology that Leon had built up.

　Building on this technology, the third generation of Breitling, Willy Breitling, strengthened the company's ties with the aviation industry. Following the remarkable advances made in aircraft, which had come to be recognized as useful after World War I, Willy signed a contract with the Royal Air Force in 1939 to supply chronographs. This marked the beginning of Breitling's efforts to build relationships with airlines and aircraft manufacturers around the world. The company established the Huit Aviation division, specializing in aviation instruments, and developed instruments such as the Ref. 734 chronograph watch.

　Seeing a new opportunity in the skies, the company developed the Chronomat, a chronograph watch equipped with a circular slide rule used by pilots to create flight plans, in 1942. The arrival of the Chronomat, whose name combines the words "chronograph" and "mathematic," further strengthened Breitling's credibility in the aviation industry, leading to the development of the Navitimer in 1952.

　The Navitimer is a chronograph watch created in response to a request from the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). The Navitimer, which updated the rotating slide rule characteristic of the Chronomat, which debuted in 1942, for aviation use and added a 12-hour counter to the chronograph, became a highly sought-after professional tool for pilots around the world.

　Around the same time, the company expanded its scope of activities by focusing on product development targeting industries other than aviation. This was exemplified by models such as the Premier, which featured a chronograph, a feature previously thought of as being for professionals, but with an elegant design, and the Top Time, which blended in with the youthful cafe racer culture.

　The company continued to increase its presence in the watch industry by developing products that addressed the needs of the times. In the 1950s, when diving and marine sports became popular, the company released its first diver's watch, the Superocean, in two versions: a three-hand model and a chronograph. In 1962, it introduced the Cosmonaut, a 24-hour chronograph watch based on the Navitimer, and in 1969, it introduced the Chronomatic, one of the earliest automatic chronographs.

　However, the quartz revolution that soon followed had a serious impact on Breitling's business, which was still producing mechanical wristwatches. The person who overcame this adversity was Ernest Schneider, an electronics expert who Willy entrusted with the business. Under Schneider's direction, Breitling expanded its quartz watch lineup and successfully rebuilt itself. In 1984, Breitling developed a new mechanical automatic chronograph watch for the Frecce Tricolori, the Italian Air Force's aerobatic flying team. This watch, named the Chronomat, shared the same name as the legendary pilot's chronograph. The name actually comes from the combination of "chronograph" and "automatic," and the rotating bezel featured interchangeable rider tabs that could be used to count up or down.

　Breitling, which had catered to a wide range of needs, eventually became overwhelmed by its complex collection structure. Theodore Schneider, who succeeded Ernest Schneider, restructured the brand. Furthermore, in 2017, Georges Kern, formerly of TAG Heuer and IWC, became CEO and implemented a clear lineup centered on land, sea, and air, as well as bold model changes based on the brand's extensive archives. While Breitling was once known for its massive, masculine designs, these changes gradually transformed the brand into one with more sophisticated designs, and the brand has grown into one that is loved by both men and women.

3 Recommended Breitling Models for Your First Breitling

　Breitling is also a great brand for first-time luxury watches. The company has produced many watches for professionals and specializes in watches that emphasize robustness. This is evident not only in the exterior but also in their in-house movements. The Cal. 01, the company's first in-house movement, features heavy bridges and plates, a calendar mechanism with no blackout period, a highly startable balance, and excellent maintenance. Mechanical watches are precision instruments that require careful handling. If you're buying your first watch, it's best to choose one that's durable and easy to repair if it does break.

　And above all, if you're going to buy a luxury watch, you should choose one with a design you like. Breitling's collection caters to a wide range of needs, from men to women, so you're sure to find one that matches your tastes and the occasions you wear it in. From here on, we'll introduce three models we recommend for your first Breitling.

Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43, Ref. AB0138211B1A1

　The Navitimer, a pilot's watch equipped with a circular slide rule for aviation, is a collection that can be said to be the face of Breitling. Since its launch in 1952, it has been updated many times without changing its basic design.

　The model featured here features a "reverse panda" dial, combining a black base with a silver subdial. The AOPA logo shines in gold at the 12 o'clock position. The Navitimer's signature slide rule can be used for multiplication, division, and other operations by manipulating the bidirectional rotating bezel.

　The three-dimensional case, with its brushed and polished finishes, is made of stainless steel. It features the iconic design, which has been carried over from the first model, including the clean lugs and pump-type pushers. The stainless steel bracelet, with its distinctive diagonal lines, is also one of the elements that symbolizes the Navitimer in recent years.

　The movement is Breitling's in-house automatic chronograph movement, Cal. 01. The precise movements of the column wheel and lever can be viewed through the see-through case back.

"Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42" Ref. AB3111161C1A1

　While Breitling is known for its pilot watches, it also has many attractive diver's watches. Of particular note is the Superocean Heritage, which was redesigned in 2025. Its simple design was inspired by the original Superocean, released in 1957. With a classic appearance and 200m water resistance, this model is easy to wear for a wide range of occasions, from business to leisure.

　The dial is an elegant blue with a sunray finish, and the unidirectional rotating bezel is set with a ceramic insert, which is highly scratch-resistant and has a lustrous texture. Details inherited from the original, such as the large arrow-shaped hour hand and the dot overlapping the index at 12 o'clock, are also attractive. The date display is located at 6 o'clock, creating a symmetrical layout.

　The simple case is paired with a mesh bracelet that enhances the vintage feel. The mesh bracelet is soft to the touch and comfortable to wear.

　It also features the company's first in-house automatic three-hand movement, Cal. B31, which has a power reserve of approximately 78 hours.

"Chronomat Automatic GMT 40" Ref. A32398101B1A1

　The Chronomat, under the direction of Georges Kern, has undergone a model change that has significantly altered the impression of the watch as a bulky chronograph. The current Chronomat is defined as a multi-purpose watch that goes beyond the framework of a pilot's watch, and the lineup includes not only chronograph models, but also three-hand and GMT models.

　This GMT model features a modest 40mm case. The black dial features simple line indexes and pencil-shaped hour and minute hands, with a red GMT hand indicating a second time zone. The polished unidirectional rotating bezel is convenient for measuring elapsed time.

　Although it does not have a chronograph mechanism, the exterior features many of the Chronomat's signature designs. The short, protruding lugs, onion-shaped crown, and iconic Rouleaux bracelet are a combination that fans will love. Despite its modest 11.77mm case, it's also water resistant to 200m, more than enough for everyday use. The movement is the Cal. 32, based on a general-purpose movement.