In 2025, Chronos Japan will celebrate its 20th anniversary. Looking back at the representative Grand Seiko models that Chronos Japan has introduced to date, critic, editor, and leading watch journalist Goro Yamada and editor-in-chief of the magazine Masamasa Hirota discussed from their respective perspectives the changes and evolution of Grand Seiko over the past 20 years, and why Grand Seiko is now so highly regarded around the world.
Photographs by Masahiro Okamura (CROSSOVER)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
Goro Yamada and Masamasa Hirota discuss Grand Seiko's 20-year history and evolution
Born in Tokyo in 1958. Editor and critic. After serving as editor-in-chief of Kodansha's Hot-Dog PRESS, he went independent. He writes and lectures on topics such as Western art history, mechanical watches, and urban development. He is also active on the YouTube channel Goro Yamada's Adult Educational Lectures.
Masamasa Hirota:Looking back at Grand Seiko over the past 20 years, what do you think has changed and what has remained the same?
Goro Yamada:Looking back at the past 20 years of Grand Seiko, I think one change is that they have become serious about mechanical watches. Another change is that Grand Seiko has become an independent brand.
Born in Osaka Prefecture in 1974, he began working as a watch journalist in 2004 after working as a salaryman. He contributes to watch and lifestyle magazines in Japan and overseas, and also serves as a lecturer at seminars and events for watch and luxury brands and retailers, as well as a radio personality on the program "BESTISHIDA Presents Chronos Japan Edition Tick Tock Talk♪" (every Sunday from 20:00 PM to 20:30 PM @TOKYO FM). He is also a member of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix Academy and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize 2025-26. He has held his current position since 2016.
Hirota:Yes, in 2017.
Yamada:However, I think Grand Seiko is a rather difficult brand to master.
Hirota:What do you mean?
Yamada:First of all, Grand Seiko was once positioned as the "pinnacle of practical watches."
Hirota:I agree.
Yamada:But there's another reason: Grand Seiko was once the top brand within the entire Seiko brand.
Hirota:Yes.
Yamada:So, in terms of practical watches, we have to surpass Rolex, for example.
Hirota:Yes.
Yamada:And as the top Seiko brand, they have to compete with the likes of Patek Philippe.
Hirota:I agree.
Yamada:Grand Seiko has always had these two directions in mind, and I think the way they're moving forward is interesting.
Hirota:That's certainly true. In the past, Grand Seiko had the image of being a watch for older men, and then it caught the attention of otaku like us, but there was a time when it didn't really catch on to the general public. To be honest, I never thought it would become as popular as it is now.
Yamada:That's true.
Hirota:In the past, I had the impression that it was something that only respectable business people bought, but now I think things have changed so much that even young people can wear it.
Yamada:Hmm. It's spreading, which I think is a good thing. Also, among those, Suwa (now Seiko Epson) and Kameido (now Seiko Watch) started making mechanical watches. Now they are made in Shiojiri (Editor's note: quartz movements and Spring Drive movements are manufactured) and Shizukuishi (Editor's note: mechanical movements are manufactured). These two manufacturing locations basically make Spring Drive and mechanical movements, respectively. One of the characteristics is that this friendly competition continues to this day.
Hirota:I agree.
Yamada:The fact that this is still going strong is very Grand Seiko-like.
Hirota:I agree.
Yamada:There's no other brand like this.
Hirota:That's right. It has three engines (Editor's note: quartz, Spring Drive, and mechanical movement). One of the reasons Grand Seiko first became popular was the model with a snow-white dial equipped with Spring Drive, released in 2005. This model, which features a unique dial pattern that resembles the delicate wind-blown patterns on the snowy surface of the snowy landscape of Shinshu, where Spring Drive is produced, sold well both in Japan and around the world, and this was the catalyst that made people think, ``Grand Seiko is on the rise.''
The Hotaka mountain range surrounds Seiko Epson's Shinshu Toki no Takumi Kobo, where Spring Drive models are manufactured. This model is the first to feature a "Snow White" pattern dial, which evokes the delicate wind patterns seen on the mountainside during the winter. The gliding blue steel second hand emphasizes the stillness of winter. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R65). 30 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (41mm diameter, 12.5mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Reference product.
Yamada:This is it.
Hirota:This is it. I'm still making this.
Yamada:Where was this evaluated?
Hirota:Is it because of the snow-white dial?
Yamada:Yeah, that's nice.
Hirota:This pattern, known as "Snow White," is embossed on the dial, and Grand Seiko has become extremely skilled at it.
Yamada:Is this the original?
Hirota:That's right. This is the original that made it big.
Yamada:I see. So that's why they still stamp the dials.
Hirota:That's right. Actually, stamped dials themselves have existed for a long time, but the snow-white pattern became popular both in Japan and overseas, and the variety of dials featuring motifs from the natural environment of the manufacturing area increased. Until then, Grand Seiko had the image of being a practical watch, but that began to change around this time, and looking back, it was clearly a major evolution.
Yamada:I see.
Hirota:After that, if the Spring Drive equipped with the snow-white dial model is amazing, then there should also be a mechanical model.
Yamada:I wanted to try high beat music.
Hirota:Yes, the idea was to create a high-beat mechanical movement with a frequency of 10 vibrations per second, and in 2009 the SBGH001, equipped with the caliber 9S85, was released. This is a mechanical high-beat model with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. What you see here is the updated SBGH299 with a new dial.
This is the first model to feature the Cal. 9S8 movement, which uses MEMS technology for the escape wheel and anchor, and new materials for the mainspring and balance spring, achieving a high beat of 10 vibrations per second and a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. It features a sleek design that follows the Grand Seiko style. Automatic winding (Cal. 9S85). 37 jewels. 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.2mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Reference product.
Yamada:This also has some ingenuity in the dial.
Hirota:Yes, the dial has embossed radial patterns.
Yamada:Also, it started to seem like they were getting serious about mechanical mechanisms around this time.
Hirota:Yes, you got serious about it.
Yamada:So that's it.
Hirota:Yamada-san, you also own this Hi-Beat model. It's the same black dial model as the one that won the "Small Hands" award at the 2014 GPHG (Geneva Watch Grand Prix).
Yamada:This is it. This model has an added GMT function, and it's quite useful for everyday use.
Hirota:Actually, before this model, had you ever used a Seiko brand watch or a Grand Seiko?
Yamada:Yes, there is, but it's old.
Hirota:What do you have?
Yamada:All that's left now is King Seiko.
Hirota:King Seiko is great.
Yamada:I also bought an early model of Spring Drive. I have quite a few Seiko watches.
Hirota:It's amazing that you have an early Spring Drive model.
Yamada:It's certainly unusual. I was thinking of buying a Spring Drive at the time, but it wasn't a Grand Seiko.
Hirota:That's right. After that, Grand Seiko started using Spring Drive and made a breakthrough with the snow-white dial model. When I think of Yamada, I think of him as someone who likes mechanical watches, but you also own a Spring Drive, and recently you've been getting attention for your quartz watches too.
Yamada:Yes, quartz. Lately, I've been thinking I should talk about quartz watches. People seem to think that all quartz watches are the same.
Hirota:That's right.
Yamada:But I think it's important to say that quartz has its pros and cons.
Hirota:So have you been wearing this 9F quartz model lately?
Yamada:This is what my manager uses.
Hirota:Is this your manager's model? You have a nice model. Even though it's a quartz watch, the Grand Seiko 9F quartz is certainly good.
Yamada:The crystal oscillator itself is completely different.
Hirota:That's right.
Yamada:A highly accurate model was released in 2025. Was it UFA?
Hirota:Yes, this is a model equipped with the high-precision movement "Spring Drive UFA." It's amazing.
Yamada:It's a Spring Drive, but the quartz crystal inside is incredible. It contains a specially selected quartz crystal.
Hirota:The accuracy is ±20 seconds per year, which I think is great. The case is 37mm in diameter and made of bright titanium.
Yamada:Yeah, I want one too.
Hirota:I want one too. But what did you think of this Grand Seiko GMT model that you own, Mr. Yamada?
Yamada:This? That's a tough question. It's neither good nor bad, in a good way.
Hirota:What exactly does that mean?
Yamada:First of all, how can I put it, is that enough?
Hirota:Yes, that's totally fine.
Yamada:It's good enough for what it is. It has a decent power reserve, so it's fine to leave it alone, and it can be used on a daily basis, though not to the point of being a little rough, and it's fine even if you treat it that way. To be honest, I hardly ever use the GMT function. I don't care about European time anymore. But it's a reliable watch for everyday use.
Hirota:That's right. It's just right.
Yamada:In a good way, I think it's a really good watch, neither good nor bad.
Hirota:But you've seen a lot of watches from overseas, and you've actually used some of them, haven't you? From your perspective, Grand Seiko is essentially a luxury watch made in Japan, but what do you think makes it different from luxury watches from overseas?
Yamada:It's very different. First of all, everything is made through vertical integration by one company, Seiko. The Swiss are trying to do the same as the group, but it's still a bit of a horizontal division of labor. It's not completely vertically integrated. This is the first thing that's completely different.
Hirota:surely.
Yamada:That's why Grand Seiko is able to consistently manufacture high-quality products.
Hirota:That's right.
Yamada:Also, and this might be a bit of a negative comment, but I think it was difficult to make something extremely cutting-edge in the past. There weren't many extreme products. But with the SLGW003 equipped with the 9SA4 that I bought, I felt like Grand Seiko had really broken new ground.
Hirota:It's a hand-wound model equipped with a dual impulse escapement.
Yamada:Yes, it has a new escapement, and you can feel the aesthetic sense in the design of the movement. The kohaze (the mechanism that moves when winding the watch) is shaped like a wagtail, and moves like a wagtail pecking at the food. This kind of gimmick has been incorporated, something never before seen in Grand Seiko. I think this just goes to show how much Grand Seiko's mechanical movements have matured.
Hirota:I agree.
Yamada:I felt that way so much that I had to buy it, and so I did.
Hirota:So when we were on the radio together, I recommended the birch dial model equipped with the automatic 9SA5 watch and dual impulse escapement, and he said he had to buy it.
This watch features a stamped dial inspired by a grove of white birch trees, affectionately known as "Shirakaba," and combines the Evolution 9 style with the Caliber 9SA5 movement, featuring a highly efficient dual-impulse escapement. It achieved the remarkable feat of winning the Men's Watch category at the 2021 Geneva Watch Grand Prix. Automatic movement (Caliber 9SA5). 47 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 11.7mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Priced at 1,276,000 yen (tax included).
Yamada:That's right, so I bought this SLGW003 with the hand-wound 9SA4.
Hirota:But I'm amazed that they managed to do something like this, because the only other mass-produced new escapement was Omega's Co-Axial escapement.
Yamada:It's true that the only low-friction mass-produced escapement was the coaxial escapement in the past. This is the biggest hit since then, or rather, the biggest achievement since then. But despite it being such a groundbreaking attempt, Grand Seiko somehow doesn't really push it. I think that's what they should be saying first, but they only emphasize things like the wagtail pecking. Well, that's very good, but wait a moment before you get to that. The engine is different to begin with.
Hirota:So, while Grand Seiko has made good products up until now, this time the existing engine has been extensively modified, making it a completely different product.
Yamada:That's right. I feel like I've done a good job.
Hirota:I think this is also the result of making Grand Seiko an independent brand in 2017. Until then, we had been operating within the framework of the Seiko brand, but now we've gone beyond that framework, becoming a separate brand, and it's luxurious, it's flexible, and we've tried all sorts of new things, so I think the SLGW003 that Yamada-san has is a milestone.
Yamada:Perhaps Grand Seiko's independence has given them a little more freedom.
Hirota:That's how it feels. By becoming an independent brand, we were able to break away from the constraint of making watches that had to be the pinnacle of practical watches, and instead take the plunge to aim for practicality while also appealing to the senses. In that sense, in 2022, we created the world's first constant-force tourbillon.
Yamada:I think this is a big step forward for starting to do this kind of thing.
Hirota:That's right. And what's more, it has a tourbillon and a coaxial constant-force mechanism, which is a bit interesting.
Yamada:Yeah, do something fun.
Hirota:I honestly didn't think it would evolve like this.
Yamada:I never thought of that happening either, so it was a welcome change for me. I think it's only by doing things like that that Grand Seiko can be called the pinnacle of quality. And now they've brought out the Constant-Force Tourbillon.
Hirota:So after that, the hand-wound birch dial model that Yamada-san is wearing, and this Spring Drive UFA from the Evolution 9 collection came out, and these also have a completely different architecture. Up until now, Grand Seiko watches had grown thicker because they had been made by piling up movement parts, but with these models the design philosophy was different, with the baseplate being widened and the parts being spread out, making it possible to install a large escapement like the Dual Impulse. I think that this is the kind of design philosophy that has changed.
This small-diameter model is equipped with the newly developed "Spring Drive UFA" movement, boasting high accuracy of ±20 seconds per year. The pale blue dial features a embossed motif of the frost-covered trees found in the region where Spring Drive models are manufactured. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9RB2). 34 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (37mm diameter, 11.4mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,518,000 yen (tax included).
Yamada:Yeah, I really think so.
Hirota:I think so. To be honest, I didn't think it would change this much. Including the appearance.
Yamada:I'm really looking forward to seeing what model will come out next.
Hirota:Yamada-san, you've looked at a lot of Grand Seiko watches, so do you have a favorite Grand Seiko model?
Yamada:No no, that's why it's this, this. This is what I bought.
Hirota:This is the SLGW003 equipped with the 9SA4. The case is made of brilliant hard titanium.
Yamada:Yes, it's a slightly different titanium.
Hirota:That's right. How do you feel about wearing this Brilliant Hard Titanium Grand Seiko?
Yamada:The case isn't too thick and it's very comfortable to wear, so it's just right.
Hirota:Compared to previous Grand Seiko models, this model is certainly slimmer.
Yamada:It's thin, so it can be worn under a shirt, making it the perfect watch for a suit.
Hirota:A while ago, only a few serious people or enthusiasts would buy Grand Seiko, but now it has become so popular that it is even selling like hotcakes overseas.
Yamada:That seems to be the case. Why is it selling so well overseas? Where is it popular?
Hirota:Conversely, I'd like to ask you why?
Yamada:No, the name Seiko was more famous around the world than we thought.
Hirota:indeed.
Yamada:I felt that strongly when I studied abroad. That was over 40 years ago. People would often ask me if my watch was a Seiko. At the time, I was wearing a Citizen, so I had to explain about Citizen, which was quite a challenge. Decades have passed since then, but I think the Seiko myth is still deeply rooted overseas.
Hirota:So, many overseas people who are relatively new to buying Grand Seiko watches have parents who own a Seiko, and they may have seen it or received it as a gift, so there is clearly a good image of it.
Yamada:Yes, I think that was the case. I think the image that has been cultivated in the past is what is behind this Grand Seiko boom.
Hirota:For example, in America, people in Silicon Valley who don't like Rolex are buying Grand Seiko. I can't really explain it, and please correct me if I'm wrong, but the way Grand Seiko has been received overseas is a bit like Shin-hanga.
Yamada:Oh, in what respect?
Hirota:Something like Kawase Hasui, that sort of thing.
Yamada:A movement in the Taisho era to create new ukiyo-e.
Hirota:Yes, it does have that kind of feel, so although it looks very Japanese, it also has elements that are international, including the use of color and things like that.
Yamada:Ah, I see, I see. That's certainly what Shin-hanga was like. That's why Shin-hanga also sold well to Americans.
Hirota:That's right. It's like he likes Steve Jobs or something. I felt a certain affinity with that. So, the image we had in mind, that Japanese things are somehow domestic and not bad, could unexpectedly be accepted overseas if it was given a little makeover. That's what I thought.
Yamada:I see. So, was this stamped dial also well received?
Hirota:It seems so. When I talk to designers of various brands in Switzerland, I find that Europeans tend to go for symmetry. They like guilloche dials. So mechanical things have to be symmetrical. There's a feeling that asymmetry is a no-no, but aren't Grand Seiko's stamped dials quite asymmetrical? It's not something that Europeans would think of very often, so I think it's interesting that they've made it into a style.
Yamada:I see, that's true.
Hirota:Europeans might prefer the genuine guilloched engraving of a Breguet watch, for example, but the deliberately expressive, distorted feel of a birch forest is very Japanese, and perhaps it's not so much the name "birch" that makes it Japanese, but rather the deliberate asymmetry.
Yamada:I agree with what you say. Personally, I'd like to see them do more than just embossing; I'd like to see them do some guilloche engraving as well. Traditional Japanese patterns in guilloche.
Hirota:Yes yes yes.
Yamada:Like honey scales.
Hirota:Yes yes yes.
Yamada:Something like Seigaiha.
Hirota:That's right. It's something we'd like to see happen. It certainly takes a lot of work. But that's why it's so well-made, and I think it's the original value of Grand Seiko that's been created.
Yamada:In old-fashioned terms, there is now a sense of playfulness, or perhaps a sense of leisure, in watchmaking.
Hirota:That's certainly true. You're right.
Yamada:I think there are many things in the world that only Grand Seiko can do. Seiko holds an incredible number of patents, so I'd like to see them put into practical use one after another. For example, Dual Impulse is something that only Grand Seiko could do. I'd like to see them continue to show off that level of technology.
Hirota:So, from that perspective, Yamada-san mentioned earlier that he wanted this UFA, which is a Spring Drive that maximizes precision.
Yamada:It's like, this is that "VFA" from the mechanical days.
Hirota:That's right. It feels like we've done that with Spring Drive.
Yamada:It's a "U" instead of a "V." It went from "Berry" to "Ultra."
Hirota:I agree.
Yamada:So the "A" stands for "Accuracy" and not "Adjusted"?
Hirota:That's right, "Ultra Fine Accuracy."
Yamada:The annual difference is ±20 seconds. It's scary. It's like a radio-controlled clock.
Hirota:Moreover, unlike radio-controlled watches, it operates as a standalone watch, so as a watch, it's probably in a different league as a spring-driven watch.
Yamada:It must be the best in the world.
Hirota:It's the best in the world. The Spring Drive uses the power of the unwinding mainspring to move the hands, and the rotor and tri-synchro regulator generate electricity, which then sends power to the IC and vibrates the quartz crystal, and it also has temperature compensation.
Yamada:This temperature correction is amazing, isn't it? It corrects the temperature all year round.
Hirota:It's done 540 times a day. It adjusts the temperature if it's out of sync, which is why it's possible to achieve such high accuracy. An annual deviation of ±20 seconds is astonishing. It's really impressive. That kind of accuracy is possible with a mainspring drive.
Yamada:That's really amazing.
Hirota:Yamada, you also own an early Spring Drive, but honestly, did you think it would evolve to the extent that it did?
Yamada:No, I didn't think so. As for Spring Drive. But a few years ago, Credor made a Spring Drive minute repeater.
Hirota:Yes, there was.
Yamada:I was amazed when I saw a video introducing the process. They put a complicated mechanism into a Spring Drive. Because I was amazed by that, I'm not so surprised by anything else they do after that. This is another area where the two manufacturing locations are competing with each other.
Hirota:That's right. So when the Spring Drive UFA was released, I felt a sense of determination, like, after creating a mechanical dual impulse escapement, we're going to create something amazing with Spring Drive.
Yamada:That's right. That's what makes it interesting and something that other brands don't have.
Hirota:The result was the 2025 Spring Drive UFA, which was incredibly well made for a mass-produced watch.
Yamada:It's the pinnacle of mass-produced watches, I think.
Hirota:And it's also more comfortable to wear. Finally, Mr. Yamada, you've seen Grand Seiko change over the past 20 years, but what do you want to see from Grand Seiko in the future?
Yamada:I would like to see Grand Seiko continue to do things that only they can do. And speaking of Japanese patterns, I would like to see them incorporate traditional Japanese designs and such. I have high expectations for them.
Recommended by the editorial department of "Chronos Japan"!
6 Current Grand Seiko Models
Over the past 20 years, Grand Seiko has further evolved not only in the quality of its exterior but also in the movements it houses, earning it high praise and solid support both in Japan and overseas. Here, the editorial team at Chronos Japan, who have witnessed this evolution, introduces six current Grand Seiko models that we recommend.
Among the many Grand Seiko embossed dials, the "Snow White" pattern, featuring the winter scenery of the Hotaka mountain range, is particularly popular. The delicate wind-shaped snow surface is expressed not with white paint, but with a special silver plating process. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R65). 30 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium (diameter 41mm, thickness 12.5mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 902,000 yen.
This modern design model of the 44GS established the unique design grammar of the Grand Seiko style. By focusing primarily on flat surfaces, it creates shadows and expresses the Japanese aesthetic sense. The case and bracelet are made of Everbrilliant Steel, which has excellent corrosion resistance. Automatic winding (Cal. 9S85). 37 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm, thickness 13.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Priced at 968,000 yen.
This Spring Drive model features a water surface pattern dial that captures the tranquility of Lake Suwa before dawn. The dark blue dial changes appearance in various ways depending on the viewing angle and lighting conditions. It features the slim Cal. 9RA2 movement, boasting a long power reserve and high precision. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9RA2). 38 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm, thickness 11.8mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Priced at 1,276,000 yen.
Grand Seiko's first mechanical chronograph, featuring a high beat of 10 vibrations per second for precise timekeeping. It features a sporty design based on the Evolution 9 style. It features a stamped dial with a Mount Iwate motif, a view from the place where the mechanical model is manufactured. Automatic winding (Cal. 9SC5). 60 jewels. 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium (diameter 43.2mm, thickness 15.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Priced at 1,980,000 yen.
This is a modern design model of the 62GS, known as Grand Seiko's first automatic model. The case and bracelet are made of lightweight, lustrous bright titanium. The pale pink dial depicts a flower raft, with cherry blossom petals covering the surface of a river. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R65). 30 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium (diameter 40mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 946,000 yen.
This mechanical chronograph features a dynamic design based on the brand's symbolic lion motif. The lightweight titanium material ensures a comfortable fit. Its easy-to-find push buttons and color-coded subdials make it easy to use. Automatic movement (Cal. 9SC5). 60 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Brilliant hard titanium (diameter 43mm, thickness 15.6mm). Water resistant to 20 bar. Price: 2,310,000 yen.
