Founded in 1995, Roger Dubuis celebrated its 30th anniversary last year. While the brand offers models with flamboyant and original designs, centered around the Excalibur, its watchmaking is also notable for its seriousness, perhaps inheriting the spirit of its founder. A video has been released on YouTube explaining the brand's history and watchmaking techniques, focusing on two masterpieces that Roger Dubuis launched to mark its 30th anniversary: the Excalibur Grand Complication and the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar. The narrators are Yutaka Fukuda, also known as Rock Fukuda, and Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan and webChronos.
Photography: Masatomo Yoshie, Yasuhiro Yokozawa
Direction: Doi Hiroo
Edited by: Saito Nobutaka
Two bi-retrograde watches that only Roger Dubuis could create
Roger Dubuis was founded in 1995 by watchmaker Roger Dubuis and businessman Carlos Diaz. Although a relatively new brand in the watch industry, the company began producing its own movements in 1999, completed construction of a manufacture workshop in 2002, and released the world's first skeleton model equipped with a double tourbillon in 2005. In the words of Rock Fukuda, the company has continued to grow and expand "before we knew it."
In 2025, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and to mark the occasion, the brand has launched two masterpieces: the Excalibur Grand Complication and the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar.
Automatic movement (Cal. RD118). 65 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KPG case (45mm diameter). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 8 pieces, available in boutiques. Price upon request.
Automatic winding (Cal. RD840). 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 40mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 9,647,000 yen (tax included).
These two watches, which use the retrograde mechanism that the founder was particularly good at, for both the date and day of the week calendar, follow the traditions of Roger Dubuis while also being masterpieces that demonstrate the brand's signature solid manufacturing attitude.In a dialogue format, Yutaka Fukuda, MC of ``Rock Fukuda's Watch Spirit!'' and a watch journalist who has been with Roger Dubuis for 30 years, and Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of ``Chronos Japan'' and webChronos, will explore how these two watches are masterpieces that follow the traditions of Roger Dubuis while also demonstrating the brand's signature solid manufacturing attitude.
First half of the video: The history of a brand founded by a "serious" Geneva boy
Born in Geneva, Switzerland in 1938, he began studying watchmaking at the age of 15, and honed his watchmaking skills while gaining experience at several brands. In 1989, he jointly patented the bi-retrograde day-date display with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder of Agenault. In 1995, he co-founded Roger Dubuis with Carlos Diaz. He left the brand in 2004, but returned in 2011, serving as an advisor on product and movement development. He passed away on October 14, 2017.
The first half of the video explains the brand's craftsmanship, which inherited the beliefs of its founder, Roger Dubuis, nicknamed "Placide" - "modest" and "serious" - along with historical archives. Don't miss the story of how the Geneva-born Roger Dubuis pursued the acquisition of the Hallmark of Geneva and the rapid growth of the brand's manufacture.
Second half of the video: 30th anniversary model with bi-retrograde movement
The second half of the video delves deeper into the appeal of the Excalibur Grand Complication and Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, both of which were released in 2025. The video focuses on the evolution of the Biretrograde mechanism, as well as the many Roger Dubuis-esque details on the exterior.
In the second half of the video, you can listen to the Excalibur Grand Complication minute repeater being played with the "Devil's Chord" along with Fukuda and Hirota.
Video Contents
00:00 Opening
00:46 What kind of brand is Roger Dubuis, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary?
01:19 Roger Dubuis' growth and expansion
02:23 A brand created by a Genevan
04:37 Realizing the Manufacture
06:06 Obtaining the Hallmark of Geneva
07:57 Two masterpieces launched to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the company's founding
09:20 The bi-retrograde calendar is Roger Dubuis' specialty
12:56 Excellent design
13:47 Also noteworthy is the mother-of-pearl dial
17:21 "XS" is a thin and easy-to-use size
18:09 Listen to the minute repeater resonating with the "Devil's Chord"
19:15 Enjoy the minute repeater with your ears and eyes
20:37 Practical Interchangeable Mechanism
22:25 Ending
