In the fall of 2025, Swiss watch brand Frederique Constant added two models to its "Classic" collection. While the collection was known for its bar indexes and leather straps, the brand introduced a new, somewhat modern yet classic "Classic Premier" model with Arabic numeral indexes and a metal bracelet.
Text by Roger Ruegger
© WatchTime Germany
Originally published in WatchTime Germany
Reprinted with permission.
[Article published on January 25, 2026]
It's hard not to love this dial
It's hard not to love this dial, and in its latest release, simply titled "Classique Premier," Frederique Constant combines polished Arabic numerals, Breguet-style hands, and a railway minute track.
The stepped dial is available in blue or salmon, with a sandblasted center and satin-finished outer ring creating a beautiful contrast.
Automatic movement (Cal. FC-301). 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 68 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38.5 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. No worldwide limited edition. 363,000 yen (tax included).
The Classic Premiere follows two strong releases: the Classic Manchette, which debuted in early 2025, and the Moneta Moonphase in 2024. Both models are quartz-powered.
Automatic movement (Cal. FC-301). 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 68 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38.5 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. No worldwide limited edition. 363,000 yen (tax included).
This is a testament to the brand's commitment to not only affordable manufacture movements, but also to its constant evolution in terms of design: while the Classic Manchette and Moneta Moonphase pay homage to the designs of the 1950s and 1980s, respectively, this timepiece references designs from different eras in a more free-flowing style.
The Arabic numeral hour markers with Breguet numerals, popular in the 20th century, the elegant pomme hands popular in the 18th century, and the Art Deco-style railway minute track combine with a 1940s-style five-link Jubilee bracelet and a modern mechanical movement boasting a power reserve of approximately 68 hours to create a surprisingly timeless watch that pairs well with both a suit and jeans.
The fruits of collaboration
It's not just the mix of designs that's surprising. The mechanical movement, Caliber FC-301, is based on La Joux-Perret's Caliber G100. What surprised watch industry observers was the news in 2012 that Citizen Watch had acquired Protole Holding, the parent company of La Joux-Perret, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Six years later, the Japanese group also acquired the Swiss Frederique Constant Group as part of its Citizen Global Plan 2018. This expansion strategy will enable movement maker La Joux-Perret to receive "cutting-edge technical support" from the group while retaining control over its own production technology and ensuring equal supply to all customers by 2025.
La Joux-Perret continues to provide a full line of movements to numerous brands today, ranging from simple hand-wound and automatic movements to tourbillons and chronographs.
At the same time, it is also the heart of its own group brands, such as Arnold & Son, Angelus, and Frederique Constant, and has established itself as the "Swiss base" for premium movements across the group.
In particular, in developing the Caliber G100, La Joux-Perret benefited from the know-how of Miyota, the prestigious movement factory established in 1980. Miyota's origins date back to 1959, when Citizen Watch built a factory in Miyota, Nagano Prefecture.
Although designed in Switzerland, the Caliber G100 appears to share some similarities with Miyota's Caliber 9000 series, known for its reliability and performance. It features redesigned gear trains, shock absorbers, regulators, barrels, and a repositioned balance wheel. This apparently took more than a year of research and development.
This allows for a longer power reserve of approximately 68 hours compared to the approximately 42 hours of comparable Miyota models, as well as a more refined layout. The Caliber G100 also serves as a replacement for the Sellita Caliber SW200. With a diameter of 25.6mm, the traditional and most common size for mechanical watches, it ensures full compatibility with cases for the Caliber 2824, the world's most popular Swiss movement.
Both the Caliber G100 and Caliber FC-301 operate at 28,800 vph, but the Caliber FC-301 eliminates the date display and instead features a rose gold-colored rotor. This automatic movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback and is housed in a 38.5mm unisex case that is water resistant to 50m.
Two choices and a classic dilemma
While previous models in the "Classic" collection often featured printed Roman numeral indexes, a silver-colored guilloched dial, and a leather strap, this Classic Premiere gives off a more modern look with applied Arabic numeral indexes and a stainless steel bracelet.
On the other hand, the polished hands and Arabic numerals are not coated with any luminous paint, making it difficult to read the time in the dark.
The watch is available in two color variations: a light cloud blue (Ref. FC-301BL3B6B) and salmon (Ref. FC-301SAL3B6B), both of which feature a grained dial in the center. While blue is a more conservative option, salmon is one of the most popular colors in the current vintage-oriented trend.
We had the chance to try the blue model on, and it was amazing how versatile it looked on the wrist. Shifting from blue-gray to dark blue depending on the light, the watch complements virtually any outfit.
With a similar diameter of 38.5mm, it's hard to imagine a wrist on which this watch wouldn't look good. Furthermore, Frederique Constant has repeatedly proven the perfect balance when paired with a stainless steel bracelet, and this model weighs just 124g (measured).
In my opinion, metal bracelets are more versatile and durable than leather straps, but I would have preferred the option of a quick-release strap change system to better complement the case and dial (note that leather straps are also available separately on the official website).
The Jubilee bracelet is very comfortable to wear, but some may find its assertive design doesn't quite mesh with the overall look, including the classic Breguet hands, which are a staple of the brand's collection, though perfectionists might prefer a slightly longer minute hand.
But with the Classic Premiere, Frederique Constant presents an extremely attractive option: a breath of fresh air in the modern base movement, a well-balanced case, and a richly detailed dial that hits the mark with modern collectors. The only unanswered question is, "Which dial should I choose?"
