Since its inception in 1997, Chopard's LUC collection has pursued understated luxury. While it briefly explored more aggressive designs, in recent years it has returned to a more restrained approach. So why has Chopard shifted its focus back to restrained timepieces? Co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele answered this question.
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
For Chopard, quiet luxury is not a new concept.
Born in Germany in 1958, he moved to Switzerland at the age of 15 and enrolled in HEC Lausanne. After graduating, he joined Chopard. In 1988, he launched the Mille Miglia collection, and in 96, he established a workshop in Fleurier. The following year, he began manufacturing the LUC collection, which features in-house movements. Following the great success of the sporty Alpine Eagle, the latest LUC collection, which emphasizes a more orthodox style, is once again attracting attention.
"It's because the changing customer preferences we're experiencing in the market align with our very essence. People are now once again turning to smaller, more refined, and elegant watches. This trend has been going on for about two years now. In particular, the response from younger customers to classic watches was a strong signal that I should start what I wanted to do. Personally, I like refined products, so I welcome this market trend." So, what exactly does quiet luxury mean to Mr. Scheufele?
"For us, quiet luxury isn't a particularly new concept, because that's what the LUC collection is all about. In other words, it's a watch that not everyone has heard of, or at least, a watch that many people don't know how much it costs. And now, people are paying more attention to quiet luxury. It's perfect timing for LUC." So, what exactly does "quiet" refer to?
"I think this: the label is definitely on the inside, and the appearance is definitely just a facade. In other words, only the owner knows the true value of the item. In the case of a watch, it might have a good movement, but the exterior would be rather simple, and it would have a refined finish. When people see such a watch, many won't immediately think, 'Wow, that's nice.' But they will come to feel a sense of understated luxury." So, do sensory aspects such as weight influence the luxurious experience?
"Sensation is a personal experience. Anyone can perceive what they see. But weight and feel are things only the person wearing them can understand. For example, let's say you put on a cashmere garment with a very delicate color. No one would know it's cashmere unless they touch it." How does Scheufele define such luxury?
"Well, it's about being able to spend time on things you enjoy, and immersing yourself in those things. It can be something very simple. It doesn't necessarily have to be extravagant. Also, luxury is equivalent to quality. High-quality things can sometimes change people's minds. Currently, luxury is often thought of as something you pay for. But for me, luxury isn't necessarily something that can be measured in monetary terms."
