As luxury sports watches have become commonplace, people are now paying more attention to regular watches. This is something I often hear from people in the industry. However, if so-called "basics" remained outdated, they wouldn't have captured the hearts of these new watch enthusiasts. One of the factors that has driven this change is undoubtedly the evolution of details.
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Text
Abe Takeshi: Planning cooperation
Edited by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
The evolution of details enhances the texture.
Judging from the new products from various companies, the quiet luxury genre is currently being driven by three-hand (or petite complication) watches with leather straps. However, the way watches are perceived has changed dramatically with the luxury sports watch boom, and this has had a significant impact on basic watches that are once again gaining popularity.
A more casual take on the Calatrava. While incorporating details uncharacteristic of a dress watch, meticulous craftsmanship results in a finish that sets it apart from typical casual watches. Automatic movement (Cal. 26-330 SC). 26 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. 18K white gold case (40mm diameter, 8.53mm thickness). 3 ATM water resistance. (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109
Take Patek Philippe's "Calatrava" as an example. The Ref. 5196, released in 2004, featured typical dress watch details such as lugs molded into the case, long bar indices, and dauphine hands. To emphasize its sophisticated appearance, the case thickness was only about 7mm. In contrast, the new Calatrava Ref. 5226 incorporates a more casual character. The "practical" Arabic numeral indices, the textured dial, and the nubuck strap are more characteristic of a "luxury sports" watch than a dress watch. The Calatrava's iconic lugs have also been redesigned to be molded into the case back rather than the case itself. To be honest, unless you look at the Clous de Paris pattern on the side of the case, you might not even recognize the Ref. 5226 as a Calatrava. In other words, the essence of Calatrava has now been reduced from the overall look to the details.
The legitimate successor to the Calatrava Ref. 96, which began in 1932. The design, including the integrated lugs, dauphine hands, and bar indices, remains unchanged. Sadly discontinued with the release of its successor, the Ref. 6119. Manual winding (Cal. 215 PS). 18 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 44 hours. 18K white gold case (37mm diameter). 3 ATM water resistance. Reference item.
The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 has undergone a similar transformation. Its basic design is based on the original 1936 model and the 1993 Portugieser Jubilee. However, careful modifications have transformed this timepiece from a classic into a modern 2024 version.
The new gold and black combination makes this timepiece look even more luxurious. While inheriting the design of the Portugieser, the emphasis on three-dimensionality strengthens its presence. Water resistance has also been improved. Automatic winding (Cal. 82220). 31 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.4mm, thickness 12.3mm). 5 ATM water resistance. (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868
The railway track on the outer edge of the dial is a testament to this effort. For a dress watch, the standard minute indices are plated dots. However, by replacing them with a practical railway track and raising the indices every five minutes, this watch has a distinctly different look from a classic dress watch. The same goes for the lugs. They are clearly too thick to be considered a dress watch, but IWC has added versatility to this model. The deliberate rounding of the cutouts on the inside of the lugs is a technique to prevent the "legs" from appearing too thin. The dial is also black, a color favored by tool watches of the past. However, by retaining a glossy finish on the surface, it achieves a look that is different from military watches.
A reissue of the now-legendary Portugieser. While the Arabic numerals give it a casual feel, the slender lugs and hour and minute hands enhance its dressy appearance. The design, typical of 1940s dress watches, remains appealing today. Manual winding (Cal. 9828). 19 jewels. Power reserve approximately 46 hours. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter). 3 ATM water resistance. Reference item.
Even more ingenious is Cartier. Their new "Santos Dumont" updates a classic icon not by altering the overall form, but solely by refreshing the details. It's understandable that Cartier, which is striving to refine its icons, wouldn't touch the design, but it was unexpected that the impression of the watch would change so dramatically just by adding new details.
A new model for 2024. While the design returns to the original, the vibrant dial, lacquered case, and Arabic numerals offer a fresh, unprecedented look. The matte strap also adds a modern touch. Manual winding (Cal. 430 MC). 18 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. 18K yellow gold case (43.5mm x 31.4mm, 7.3mm thick). 3 ATM water resistance. (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00
The model I'd like to compare this one to is the "Santos Dumont" from about 10 years ago. That model wasn't about details, but rather an attempt to alter the design itself, omitting the bezel and making the case thinner while giving the overall piece a more massive look. The skill behind that was impressive, but the new model, with its layers upon layers of detail, is even more refined.
An attempt for a "massive" rather than "quiet" era. By boldly omitting the bezel and the screws that secure it, and adding thick lugs, this ultra-thin watch gains a sense of robustness. It is, in a sense, a modern ultra-thin watch. Manual winding (Cal. 430MC). 18 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18K rose gold case (44.6mm x 34.6mm, 5.58mm thick). 30m water resistance. Reference product.
Three iconic pieces transformed by new details. The significantly evolved details bring a fresh look to what was once a staple—or, to put it bluntly, the "dad watch"—a remnant of the "luxury sports" trend. Ultimately, isn't this the essence of "quiet luxury" in the world of watches?
