If we're going to talk about quiet luxury, we absolutely must invite this man. Mark Cho, the founder of the men's select shop "The Armoury," has become a leader in the world of men's clothing thanks to his exceptional aesthetic sense. He's also a watch enthusiast, collaborating with numerous watch brands.
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Quiet luxury features numerous thoughtfully considered details.
Born in London, England in 1983, he is the co-founder of the menswear store "The Armoury" and co-owner of the British tie manufacturer "Drake's." A renowned figure in the world of tailoring, he is also a long-time watch collector. In recent years, in addition to writing for publications such as "Watches by SJX" and "Robb Report," he has become widely known in the watch industry through unique collaborations with brands such as H. Moser & Cie., Unimatic, and NH Watch. He is one of the rare individuals who truly understands the worlds of men's clothing and watches.
"Luxury should be about things that are particularly rare, well-made, and beautiful, or a combination of all three." This pioneer of quiet luxury, who speaks of this trend, shares his perspective on the current state of the boom that has emerged in recent years.
"I think the quiet luxury boom shows that luxury goods before it had gone too far. They were too flashy, and customers were fed up with them. Now, luxury brands are trying to change direction and attract customers in different ways. Meanwhile, The Armoury has always focused on classic style, excellent craftsmanship, and design. If that's what you call 'quiet luxury,' then that's fine."
This stance of his is also clearly reflected in his collaborations with the watch industry.
"We've collaborated with several watch brands in the past. Some are high-end, like H. Moser, while others are quite affordable, like Unimatic. The important thing is that we like the brand's products and the people who support them. We love products with clear designs, a strong sense of style, and unique, special techniques. If there's mutual respect, collaboration is possible."
And these watches, needless to say, are both luxury items and quiet.
"It is certainly possible to have both. Quiet luxury items are the result of several special circumstances. At first, you might only notice the color and shape, but upon closer inspection, you'll discover numerous thoughtful details that take time to appreciate. For example, a vintage Patek Philippe with only a time display may seem very simple at first glance, but you can appreciate the meticulous typography and markings on the dial, the three-dimensional enamel work, the beautiful case shape, and, when you open the case back, the beauty of the movement."
However, as a highly skilled businessperson, he is skeptical about quiet luxury becoming the mainstream.
"Quiet luxury is not for everyone. It's hard to understand and, for many, just a hassle. Besides, one of the key elements of luxury is showing off. If you want to flaunt your wealth to the average person, it's easier to wear a flashy watch from a well-known brand that everyone will recognize."
