Diamond watches were a symbol of a man's success. Tracing its history from the Longines "Signet" for the American market

When we think of diamond watches, we tend to think of women and the bling-bling watches worn by rappers. However, in the 1950s in America, male businessmen wore sparkling diamond-studded watches as a sign of success. Martin Green, editor and writer for the US edition of WatchTime, explores the aesthetics of the Signet, a watch made by Longines for the American market.

The Longines Signet: An Example of the American Dream

　In the 1950s, successful American men were choosing to treat themselves to elegant diamond-set watches. One of the most luxurious options at the time was the Longines Signet. The very existence of this model speaks volumes about the momentum the brand was enjoying at the time.

Men used to love diamond watches too

　When evaluating a vintage watch, it's important to remember the historical context in which it was created. This is especially true for diamond watches. Today, the brilliance of the gemstones and their modest size can easily lead us to immediately assume that these watches are for women.

　But things were very different back then. North America, in particular, has a long tradition of men wearing diamond watches. While today, sparkling gemstones are often associated with the music and entertainment industries, in the 1950s and 1960s, established businessmen wore them as a sign of success. And the Longines Signet was the ultimate watch for those who truly reached the top.

Big purchases in booming America

　The Signet we're looking at today was manufactured around 1956, the heady era when Elvis Presley was dominating the charts with "Heartbreak Hotel," Eisenhower was re-elected president, and the Bell X-2 became the first manned aircraft to reach three times the speed of sound.

　At the time, it was priced at $495, making it one of the most expensive watches in the Longines lineup at the time, and considering that the average annual salary in the United States in 1956 was around $4500, its value is quite impressive.

Not 14k gold, but 18k gold. And a large diamond.

　The first thing that set it apart from other products of the time was the case material. 14K gold was the standard in North America at the time, but Longines chose 18K gold. Wristwatches with diamonds on the bezel were not uncommon, but the Signet had large stones even covering the lugs. To hold these stones in place, the bezel was drilled with a hole to allow the culet to escape. The diamond itself filled this hole, ensuring the watch's dust- and moisture-proofing standards that were standard for dress watches at the time.

Why is it quiet and diamond-free on the dial?

　Considering such a luxurious case, the dial is surprisingly restrained. While Longines has also made models with diamond-set indices, the Signet has deliberately avoided this. The silver-colored dial features a slightly recessed small seconds at 6 o'clock. Like the hands, the indices are extremely thin, with only two indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. The only inscriptions on the dial are the brand name, logo, and the small seconds scale.

　This clean design not only improved legibility, but also, ironically, highlighted the extravagant diamonds set into the case, making it ideal for a self-made businessman who wanted to demonstrate that his vast wealth had been achieved through "practical and efficient methods."

　At just over 25mm wide and 29mm long (excluding lugs), it may seem small by modern standards, but in the 1950s it was unmistakably a men's size. Longines has kept the case sharp, preventing it from becoming overly feminine.

　Here too, the straight design of the dial plays a role in supporting the masculine and powerful impression. At 7.75mm thick, it is an excellent balance for this category. It is not too thin, and gives a moderate presence to the wrist.

Golden Ratio Design and In-House Movement Cal.9LT

　Inside is the Caliber 9LT, a standard yet highly capable in-house cushion-shaped movement of the time, perfectly harmonizing with the rectangular case. This manual-winding movement features 17 jewels, three of which are proudly set in gold bearing cages near the balance. The elegant beveled bridges are also a testament to the movement's high quality.

A unique treasure born from the booming American market

　Unlike the dial, the movement is stamped "Swiss," as Longines manufactured its movements at its headquarters in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, and shipped them to the United States. The cases and dials were made in the United States by a local subsidiary, in order to avoid the heavy import duties imposed on finished Swiss products at the time, and above all to respond quickly to local tastes.

　While Europe was still recovering from the war, the American economy was booming. This economic disparity created the perfect fertile ground for the creation of "unique American masterpieces" that occupy a unique place in Longines' rich history. The Signet is undoubtedly one of its most dazzling jewels.