"Quiet luxury," a trend that originated in the fashion world and is now gaining attention in the watch industry, is explored in the November 2024 issue of Chronos Japan in its main feature, "An Introduction to Quiet Watches," which delves into this trend in watchmaking and the watch market. At the end of this feature, "21 Quiet Watches" are listed. What are these new trend watches that are different from both "luxury sports" and dress watches?
Edited by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
21 Quiet Watches Selected from Current Models
Up to this point, we've defined "quiet luxury" and considered various watch details and features that fit that definition. However, since it's a term not yet established in the watch industry, many people may still not fully grasp its meaning. Therefore, to conclude this feature, we'd like to present "21 quiet watches selected from current models." The models listed here are new-trend watches with characteristics that set them apart from so-called "luxury sports" watches and dress watches.
Cartier "Santos-Dumont"
This model features an 18K yellow gold case with a satin and polished finish, accented by a striking blue dial. A radial guilloché pattern adorns the center, harmonizing beautifully with the gold-colored Roman numeral indices. Every detail is meticulously crafted, including the clearly printed railway minute markers.
Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection 45GS Reissue Design Limited Edition"
The "45GS," Grand Seiko's first hand-wound high-beat model, has been reissued. It's packed with features that fans will covet, such as a case mainly composed of distortion-free mirror finishes, a warm dial, and a logo that follows the original.
Vacheron Constantin "Fiftysix Automatic"
The 2024 new model of the "FiftySix" inherits the design code of the Ref. 6073 that appeared in 1956. The elegant black dial is given a striking contrast with an opaline finish in the center and a sunburst satin finish on the flange.
Chopard "LUC XPS Forest Green"
This new 2024 model features a modern take on the sector dial with a calming forest green color. Its appeal lies in the meticulous craftsmanship, including the engraving around the small seconds subdial and the variations in the satin finish. The case is made of Lucent Steel™, known for its high gloss.
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase
This watch features an asymmetrical dial with a panoramic date display at 4 o'clock and a moon phase display at 10 o'clock. The grained gray dial gives it a subtle yet elegant impression. It is equipped with traditional blued steel hour and minute hands.
Omega De Ville Trésor
This model features a power reserve indicator at the 12 o'clock position and a small seconds subdial at the 6 o'clock position. The subdials, set slightly lower than the main dial, have a record-groove-like finish, creating a three-dimensional appearance. The short lugs and thin case also contribute to a comfortable fit.
IWC Portofino Automatic
The IWC Portofino collection, named after the upscale Italian resort town of Portofino, boasts a minimalist design. The combination of plump, leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, three-dimensional gold-colored indices, and a rounded case is loved by people of all ages and genders.
Parmigiani Fleurier "Tonda PF Micro-Rotor"
Developed for the ultimate purist, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor features a non-date design. The golden Siena-colored dial, with its understated indices, is adorned with the company's signature barleycorn guilloché pattern.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
The Perpetual 1908 is the only classic line currently offered by Rolex. This particular model features a platinum case and an ice-blue dial. The rice-grain motif guilloché dial and the bezel, which combines domed and fluted edges, add a touch of elegance.
Blancpain Villeret Ultra Slim
This dress watch bears the name of the brand's birthplace. The company's craftsmanship shines through in its simple design, from the distortion-free polished round case and the lustrous Roman numerals on the pure white dial to the tightly fitted sage-shaped hour and minute hands.
Capek "Promenade Guilloche Bleu Nuit"
This is a guilloché dial model from Czapek's new "Promenade" collection. The guilloché decoration, which radiates outwards from the small seconds subdial, was developed in collaboration with the company's partner, Metalem, and allows you to enjoy the complex reflection of light, reminiscent of a solar flare.
Van Cleef & Arpels "Pierre Arpels Watch"
This slim dress watch features a pure white dial adorned with a "pique" motif in the center, resembling the brand's lozenge logo woven into the fabric, surrounded by delicate Roman numeral indices. The rounded edges of the bezel allow it to easily slip under a shirt cuff.
Tasaki "Face of Tasaki"
The rectangular case is inspired by the rafts of the pearl farms that are the roots of TASAKI. The light green dial features circular discs that resemble pearls floating in the sea, and a playful mechanism is incorporated that rotates in conjunction with the automatic winding rotor.
Roman Gautier "C by Roman Gautier Platinum Edition"
The platinum-cased "C by Romain Gauthier" model expresses continuity through its slightly offset dial and gradually tapering indices. The rubber strap integrated with the lugs and the three-dimensional bezel with facet cuts add a sporty touch.
Hermes "Hermès H08"
Hermès' sporty watch, which garnered instant attention upon its release in 2021, features a unique font that exudes Hermès' signature elegance, while luminous indices and hands, along with a sharply polished titanium case with 10 ATM water resistance, ensure excellent practicality.
Hermès "Arceau Grande Lune"
The Hermès Arceau is characterized by its asymmetrical lugs, dynamic italicized Arabic numeral indices, and three-dimensional leaf hands. This particular model features a triple calendar and moon phase, and its sunburst blue dial evokes a romantic scene reminiscent of the night sky.
Hermès "Slim d'Hermès"
This slim dress watch, with its rounded, notched Arabic numeral indices, exudes the elegant charm characteristic of Hermès. The varying finishes on the central dial, the small seconds subdial, and the outer edge create a striking contrast despite its monochrome design.
Kikuchi Nakagawa "Murakumo"
With its small seconds subdial and spade-shaped hands, this watch boasts a classic, almost quintessential design. However, the flawlessly printed indices, sharp case, and black polish applied to the case and hands give it a modern feel and a unique presence.
Armin Strom "Tribute 1 Fumé"
Featuring an offset fumé dial and the brand's signature finger bridge, this watch boasts a distinctive three-dimensional structure. The guilloché decoration on the plate was hand-engraved in the atelier of independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
Raymond Weil "Millesime Moonphase"
A "neo-vintage watch" that blends classic details with modern elements. In 2024, a model with a moon phase complication will be added to the collection. Pay attention to the finely finished sector dial and the sharply designed case.
Baltic "Micro Rotor Roulette Salmon"
This classic watch features a domed Hesalite crystal and a salmon-colored dial. The dial is divided into multiple sections, with different finishes applied to the center, outer perimeter, and small seconds subdial, giving it a rich and expressive appearance.
