Have you heard of SERICA? A thorough discussion of this micro-brand that's a favorite among watch enthusiasts!

SERICA is a French watch brand. While it engages in cross-border e-commerce, it lacks a legitimate distributor in Japan and is relatively unknown. Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota happened to borrow one of these Celicas. With four of the brand's most iconic models on hand, each member of the editorial team shared their impressions and thoroughly discussed the design, usability, and the Celica's prospects for the Japanese market. In addition to Hirota, the panel included Yuto Hosoda, Yosuke Ohashi, and transcriber Chieko Tsuruoka. Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki was absent from the discussion due to the flu, so he added a review of the "Diving Chronometer" Ref. 530-2 he wore in the comments.

Our impressions of SERICA, a micro-brand favorite among watch enthusiasts!

Hosoda"The subject of this discussion is a wristwatch from the brand SERICA. Mr. Hirota, could you tell us how this subject came to be featured?"

Hirota"There was someone I'd known for a long time who worked at a French PR company, and they asked me, 'We're starting a Celica. What do you think? Are you interested?' The Celica was reasonably priced, had an antique watch feel, and was typical of French watches, with a bit of a twist, so I thought those were great qualities. They don't have a distributor in Japan, but after talking with the two founders, I thought, 'This is great,' so I borrowed one and offered to test it out. The Celica was already a hot topic among some watch enthusiasts."

Hosoda"Yes, it was a hot topic on Instagram and other platforms."

Hirota"And so, I decided to rent it."

Hosoda"I was approached through Mr. Hirota's connections. To explain a little about Celica, it is a brand that was founded in France in 2019. The founders were Jérôme Bourgueil and Gabriel Vachette. As Mr. Hirota mentioned, there is no official import agency in Japan that handles the brand, but they do cross-border e-commerce, so you can purchase directly from their website even from Japan."

Hirota"It's a brand that has made affordable watches that satisfy the 'otaku' mindset."

Hosoda"Almost all of the models are priced between 20 and 30 yen. Currently, the prices of mid-range watches have risen, and there are very few mechanical watches that can be purchased for 30 yen, so in that sense, it is a brand that falls into the old-fashioned mid-range price range. The designs are also all to the otaku's taste."

Hirota「そうですね」

Hosoda"The watches that Hirota borrowed this time were the "Diving Chronometer" from the "DIVING" series, which is a diver's watch; the "Field Chronometer" from the "EXPLORATION" series; the "Travel Chronometer" from the "TRAVEL" series, which has a GMT function; and the "Parade" series, which is a two-hand dress watch? Anyway, these are the four watches. Each of the five members of our editorial team took turns wearing one of them. We'll give our impressions of each one, focusing on the wearer."

"Field Chronometer"

Hosoda"The watch Hirota-san is wearing is a Field Chronometer. As the name suggests, it's an Explorer-type watch."

Hirota"What I liked about it was that, despite its reasonable price, the packaging was stylish. It really seemed to be made by people who love watches. Watches made by watch enthusiasts often have great packaging, and that's certainly true of the Celica. The fact that it's from France may have something to do with it."

Hosoda"The model that Hirota-san is wearing is water resistant to 20 atmospheres, has a case diameter of 38 mm, and is 10.4 mm thick. What did it feel like wearing it?"

Hirota"I thought it was very light and good."

Hosoda"From the looks of it, the bracelet looks rather poor...old-fashioned."

Hirota"The Bonclip (bamboo bracelet). It's simple to use. All you have to do is insert the tabs on the buckle (into the gaps between the links) and snap it into place. It's certainly simple, as it's the same as the old bracelets, but the head is light so you don't notice it. The Bonclip is thin, but you can precisely adjust it to fit your wrist, and it's very convenient to operate, as you just insert the tabs. It also looks cool. Also, while the design of this model is retro, I thought it also cleverly incorporated modern watchmaking elements, like Raymond Weil's Millesime, with vertical hairlines on the tops of the lugs and a shiny polished lacquer dial."

Hosoda"good"

"Travel Chronometer" and "Diving Chronometer"

Hosoda"The Travel Chronometers that Tsuruoka and I wore were GMT watches, and were similar in price and size to the Field Chronometer worn by Hirota. However, the case was larger than the Field Chronometer, with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 12.3mm, and the strap was quite thin and tapered. With this head, it moved around on the wrist and was uncomfortable to wear. I thought this was a real shame. With the Field Chronometer being as light as it was, this strap might have been fine."

Tsuruoka"It didn't look like it, but the head of the travel club we were wearing is heavy."

Hosoda"It has a rotating bezel, so the weight is unavoidable. In addition, the Field Chronometer strap isn't tapered, but this one is. Even though they're in the same range, it's the subtle differences that make such a big difference."

Hirota"A moderate taper is best. A more tapered skirt gives off a dressy look."

Hosoda"Also, while it doesn't bother me with a matte black dial, the glossy hands on the Travel Chronometer's glossy brown dial look a little cheap to me. I think they're the same hands (as on the Field Chronometer)..."

big bridge"Maybe it's because the needles are a little dark? I don't think they're showing the perfect white."

Hosoda"I think that was intentional. It's a burnt cream color that has been aged. What I felt was that when you look at the contrast with the dial, it gives off a slightly cheap impression. I wish the hands were a little less shiny. But that's purely my own opinion. Of the four watches, I honestly feel that the feel and hands were a little disappointing. Looking at the other three, the balance between the head and bracelet is good."

Tsuruoka"The Parade's strap is thin, but the head is also light."

big bridge"However, there are also models with metal bracelets."

Hosoda"That's right, the official website only has the metal bracelet listed. The cutout of the strap was in a promotional image, so maybe both will be included. I think the feel and image of the watch will be different if it's a bracelet."

Hirota"I see. Is the bezel ceramic?"

Hosoda"Yes, ceramics."

Hirota"Who was wearing the diver's watch?"

Tsuruoka"This is Deputy Editor-in-Chief Suzuki Yukiya. He's off today, so I've left his comments here. First of all, he said, 'This is a model that excels in its packaging of design and performance.' He added, 'Overall, the design is clean and refreshing, and it clearly expresses the essence of a diver's watch not only in performance but also in design, but also combines individuality and modernity with the lug finish, which combines polished and hairline finishes, making it a very appealing design.'"

Hosoda"The case size is 39mm, but the bezel is thick and the dial is small, giving it a very condensed feel, which is also a favorite among otaku (laughs)."

Hirota"That's right. The attention to detail, like placing the index in the center of the dial, is what otaku like."

Tsuruoka"For a 300m water-resistant diver's watch, the compact case, measuring less than 40mm in diameter, feels well-balanced on the wrist," the article also states.

Hosoda"This is amazing, it's water resistant to 300m. Is the crown... screwed in?"

Tsuruoka"It's screwed in, but there's a slight gap. Incidentally, one comment said, 'The diameter of the crown is large compared to the small case, making it easy to wind and set the time.' Another comment said, 'The mesh bracelet is a little delicate compared to the case, so when you move your wrist, the head feels heavy and it feels like it's being pulled slightly outward.' Like us, they seemed to be concerned about the balance between the head and the bracelet. On the other hand, they also wrote, 'The mesh metal bracelet itself is smooth and feels good against the skin and is comfortable to wear.' 'The mesh metal bracelet is threaded through the buckle and tucked inside, so the buckle doesn't stick out, it's neat and doesn't get in the way, which is good. On the other hand, it can be a little difficult to tighten the bracelet.' Another point of concern was, 'The 120-minute unidirectional rotating bezel is a little heavy, but not so heavy that it becomes an inconvenience.'"

"parade"

Hosoda"Ohashi-kun was the one wearing the parade uniform."

big bridge"In terms of design, it's a type of watch that you don't see very often, with a UFO-like shape, but I was really impressed by how well that was incorporated into the design."

Hosoda"Is this an automatic too?"

big bridge"Yes, it's an automatic watch. The dial has a rare pattern. It has a whirlpool-like design."

Tsuruoka"Yes, I also really like the pattern on this dial, so I asked the photographer, Senta Murayama, who took the photos for us, to take some beautiful photos. Isn't that amazing?"

Hosoda"Is this pattern carved into the piece?"

Tsuruoka"It's carving."

Hosoda"Are dot indexes on all the hour markers?"

Tsuruoka"Yes, in the photo it's tilted a little to the 12 o'clock side, so it's hidden..."

Hirota"(The index) is embedded."

Hosoda"That's interesting."

big bridge"Whether it's the form or the dial, you can feel the ingenuity and ingenuity, and in that respect I felt it was a watch I'd never seen before. I thought it was interesting."

Hosoda"The color of the dial is not just a simple yellow."

Tsuruoka"Champagne gold maybe?"

big bridge"I think it has a slight green tint."

Hirota"That's interesting."

big bridge"That's right, the buckle is also designed to fit the shape of the case, with a curved surface and chamfered edges, which I think is a very clever touch."

Hosoda"This buckle is so intricate and interesting!"

big bridge"This brand has a strong retro impression overall, but at the same time, it has a modern feel, and it's fun to see them reinterpret it in a new way. As with other models, I was impressed by the beautiful design of the Celica's buckle. I thought it expressed the message that 'this isn't just an accessory to a watch.'"

Hirota"It's a uniquely French way of packing."

Hosoda"I see. How does it feel to wear? The strap of this model is also tapered, just like the Travel Chronometer. It's 18mm at the lug and 14mm at the buckle. However, this one seems to be comfortable."

big bridge"The head is very light and easy to use."

Hirota"It's 41mm long, 35mm wide, and 8.2mm thick, so it certainly feels comfortable to wear."

Tsuruoka"By the way, the Parade's crown is small for its design. But it's surprisingly easy to pull out, even with nail polish on the fingers. That's a big plus for me (laughs)."

Hosoda"Indeed, it's easy to withdraw normally."

big bridge"Also, I'm pretty sure this brand also runs a strap shop."

Hirota"Many brands have released models with oval cases like this, but the Celica Parade is clearly iconic."

Hosoda"Last year, Denison won the Challenge Category at the GPHG (Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix). This type of watch is attracting attention."

Hirota"It's a bit of an 'abnormal' design. It's not 70s or any other era."

Hosoda"It's amazing. What's more, it's incredibly sturdy, with a water resistance of 10 atmospheres, even with this design. It's screwed down, yet it's still 10 atmospheres! The field chronometer and travel chronometer are water resistant to 200m, and the diving chronometer to 300m."

Hirota"I think it's great that it's a watch that can actually be used."

big bridgeAccording to a reporter from Watch Time, a magazine whose translated article is also being republished on webChronos, the screws are long enough to reach the bezel, and an O-ring or some other gasket is inserted there.

Hosoda"It's a three-piece suit, as far as the case goes. At first glance it looks like a two-piece suit."

A microbrand with high overall scores. Waiting for its launch in Japan!

Tsuruoka"There were a variety of opinions on different models, but what was the overall score for the brand?"

Hirota"It's not uncommon for microbrand watches to have some good and some bad, but the Celica scores highly overall."

Actually Swiss made

Hosoda"And it's Swiss-made."

big bridge"It appears to be designed in France and manufactured in Switzerland."

Hosoda"I thought for sure that it wouldn't be able to get the Swissness certification, but the movement is a Soprod, and if the exterior crystal and other parts are Swiss made, it will meet the 60% standard (as stipulated by the Swissness Law). I thought for sure that the case would be made in China."

Hirota"I think that's true."

Hosoda"That's true, I think some parts are manufactured in other countries, such as the bracelet, which is made in China. By the way, going back to the topic of movements, all four of the watches I borrowed this time were Soprod watches, and all except the Parade were COSC certified."

Hirota"The parade is two stitches long."

Hosoda"Parades aside, having COSC certification means the movement is also in good condition."

The price is also reasonable

Hirota"Yukiya-san also commented that the bezel of this diver's watch is quite stiff to rotate."

Tsuruoka"The bezel on the travel chronometer is also quite stiff. It was difficult to turn."

Hosoda"The feel is definitely worth the price."

Tsuruoka"In the same price range, it may be inevitable that it will look inferior when compared to major brands like Seiko's Prospex."

Hosoda"For a watch in the 30 yen range from a while back, I don't think it feels very good. But now that watch prices have risen across the board, it can't be helped."

Hirota"It would be nice if the details could be worked out, but overall it's very well done."

Who is SERICA recommended for?

Tsuruoka"In the Japanese market, where there are no authorized dealers yet, please tell us what kind of users you would recommend the Celica to."

Hosoda"It's a watch that people who have reached the pinnacle of their watch hobby buy for fun, not their first or second watch."

Hirota"If we continue to refine it, such as by adding more details, I feel that it could possibly become a good choice for 'your first mechanical wristwatch.' When buying a watch, you either choose it based on positive or negative points, but otaku choose it based on positive points. However, the Celica has few negative points, so I think it could be even better if they could refine the details, such as not making the strap too tapered or the feel of the bezel."

Hosoda"That's true, it's a microbrand that's doing its best."

Tsuruoka"Oh yes, as I mentioned earlier about it being a hot topic on Instagram, I posted on Twitter (X) that we were going to have a discussion about the Celica. I received a lot of positive feedback from Japanese watch enthusiasts, with comments like, 'I have one,' and 'SERICA is great,' and some even had multiple watches. Everyone seems to be buying them through cross-border e-commerce."

Hirota"Even though it's not available in Japan, it still reaches people who like it."

Hosoda"The fact that the brand logo is not conspicuous is also very otaku-like (laughs)."

Hirota"There is a small inscription 'SERICA SWISS' written on the dial below the 6 o'clock position."

Hosoda"It's like 'SWISS MADE' (laughs). It's not a logo though."

big bridge"I think that microbrands with affordable prices like this will resonate with people who are not hardcore watch fans, but who are interested in mechanical watches or who have a desire for a watch with a twist."

Hosoda"Well, the other question is where (such users) find out about it. I think many people find out about it on social media. However, because there is no distributor in Japan, it is not something I would recommend too easily, especially to casual watch users. For example, BALTIC, which is a slightly cheaper competitor, is sold by Hº M' S" Watch Store. Even if it is the same micro brand, I think it is easier to purchase from a company that has an official distributor in Japan. Even if it is cheap, I think it is quite difficult to order a watch that costs 20 to 30 yen from overseas at your own risk. I think one of the reasons they can sell at this price range is because they do not go through a distributor."

Hirota"I think it would be great to expand into Japan in the future. They're coming to Japan soon, so I'll ask them about it. Oh, by the way, I showed the Celica to some friends who deal in antique watches. They said, 'This is great!' and 'I want to make a Celica Japan.' It's a hit with connoisseurs. Of course, there are some shortcomings, but the Celica is popular with otaku, and it's relatively well-made, so I'd say that the Celica is a great choice for seasoned watch lovers like Chronos readers to try out."

Hosoda"That's right. If you already own several watches, you'll love it even if you notice some imperfections. You probably also have a watch that you wear every day. You might want a watch to wear on your days off... I recommend this to watch enthusiasts who have a variety of ways to use and enjoy their watch."

Hirota"As for the Celica, it's a micro-brand worth keeping an eye on in the future, so I'll end by saying, 'Thank you for letting me borrow your Celica!'"

Hosoda"That was an interesting watch!"