The Otsuka Low-Tech "No. 8" is a "warm" retrograde! Watch professor Masamasa Hirota takes a deep dive into this new model

Released on Wednesday, March 11, 2026, Otsuka Low-Tech's latest work, "No. 8," was delved into earlier than anywhere else by Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan and webChronos, who also happens to be known as Hakase, and interviews Jiro Katayama. In addition to its "warm" retrograde feel, this work boasts even more "tone and manner" and details, so will it be difficult to obtain?

Otsuka Lowtec "No. 8" now on sale!

　Otsuka Low-Tech has gained worldwide fame for its combination of retro-futuristic design and unique display mechanism. Its one-of-a-kind appearance makes it easy to see why it has so many enthusiastic fans. The company has now created the No. 8, a watch with a slowly returning hour hand. While the mechanism is impressive, the revolutionary design is also appealing.

"I wanted to create a watch like the retrograde watches made by Ulysse Nardin, a retrograde watch that uses a string to slowly return the hands to zero," says Jiro Katayama, head of Otsuka Low-Tech, explaining the concept of the No. 8. "However, that watch required a special barrel and governor to stabilize the retrograde movement. I thought it would be difficult to recreate."

　In contrast, Katayama came up with a mechanism in which the minute hand (or more accurately, the fader) is reset to zero using a balance spring, and its movement is controlled by a heavy flywheel rather than a governor. "Does that mean the retrograde is returned slowly? No (laughs)."

　The basic structure is the same as a regular retrograde. However, by adding a flywheel that rotates over time, the fader is able to reset to zero more slowly. "I actually wanted it to move even more slowly, but if I lowered the gear ratio and slowed down the reset speed, the clock wouldn't work. And besides, if I used a ruby ​​on the axis of the retrograde, it wouldn't work." As a result, Katayama replaced the ruby ​​with two bearings and reworked the design several times before completing this retrograde.

　The mechanism is ingenious. The fader is reset to zero by a balance spring, but its movement is supported by a flywheel. It may seem difficult to stop it precisely, but the rotation of the flywheel is ingeniously controlled. The key is the intermediate wheel that meshes with the fader rack. Specifically, when the intermediate wheel rotates at a constant speed, the intermediate wheel and rack disengage midway through. This means there is little risk of the flywheel rotating excessively and damaging the retrograde mechanism.

"The base Miyota movement has a low torque, so it was difficult to install this module." Because torque is required to turn the flywheel that controls the faders, the power reserve is not long at around 32 hours. However, considering that they added 62 parts to the Miyota 90 series and created a retrograde movement that moves slowly at a constant speed, this figure is more than sufficient.

　To coincide with this retrograde, Katayama also made significant changes to the design of the No. 8. The metallic finish, an Otsuka Low-Tech icon, remains the same as before. However, the corners of the case are deliberately angled, and the corners of the crystal are rounded. Furthermore, the case's grain finish is much softer than previous models. While it may not suit a retrograde that quickly returns to zero, it matches the tone and style of the design of a slow-moving retrograde.

"The inspiration for the design came from old reel-to-reel watches," Katayama explains. This is why the hour hand is reminiscent of the knob used to turn the reel. The hand is made from aluminium. Previous Otsuka Low-Tech watches would have had a sharpened finish, but in this model the edges have been carefully rounded to match the case. What's more, the finish on the dial itself is not abrasive, but rather painted grey. The reason for this is that "we wanted to create the feel of an open-reel watch." If you look closely, you'll see that the flywheel that controls the retrograde movement is also shaped like an open-reel watch.

　The No. 8, including the mechanism, strongly emphasizes softness. However, no effort has been spared in its construction. The logo and indexes, which are deliberately printed rather than engraved, have a three-dimensional finish. In addition, the red part added to the aluminum fader is actually machined plastic. Instead of being painted, a separate part is fitted in like an inlay, so the red part and the top of the hands are perfectly flush.

　The rubber strap on this watch is also well-finished. Katayama found a manufacturer willing to produce small batches and commissioned them to create the rubber strap. This was the company's first attempt at this, but the seams of the strap are inconspicuous and the surface finish is on par with that of products from major manufacturers. Otsuka Low-tec watches have always had a consistent tone and style, but this watch feels even more refined.

　Now, the price of the No. 8 model is 99 yen. It's not cheap compared to previous models, but considering the unique mechanism, more refined tone and detail, it's a real bargain. Honestly, I'd recommend it to all watch lovers, but it's definitely more difficult to obtain than previous models.