Tissot continues to dominate the watch market. The Powermatic 80 exemplifies its extraordinary "price" and "value."

Tissot is often praised for its excellent cost performance, offering high-quality watches at affordable prices. But what is the reason behind this? We will explore the background of its outstanding "price" and "value" by examining the company's history, which began in 1853, its current flagship automatic movement "Powermatic 80," and its latest collection, the "Gentleman 38mm," as examples.

Why is Tissot so popular?

　Founded in 1853 in Le Locle, a town in the Swiss Jura region, Tissot is a long-established brand beloved by many watch enthusiasts for its high quality and affordable prices. From its inception, the company focused on international expansion, steadily increasing its sales channels not only in Europe but also in the United States, Russia, and other countries. It has established itself as a global brand and is known worldwide.

　Excellent development capabilities are also an indispensable element when discussing Tissot. In 1930, when electrical appliances were becoming widespread, they developed and mass-produced the world's first anti-magnetic wristwatch, the "Tissot Antimagnetique," which made it possible to maintain high accuracy even in environments exposed to magnetism. In the 1950s, they released the "Tissot Navigator," a world timer that displayed the time in 24 major cities around the world, supporting the arrival of the aviation age. In 1999, they developed the "T-Touch," the world's first touch-sensor multi-function digital watch. They created a new form of wristwatch by fusing electronics technology. It would not be an exaggeration to say that this digital watch is the prototype of the smartwatch that is now widely used. More recently, with the "PRC 100 Solar" announced in 2025, they removed the design constraints of light-powered quartz watches by incorporating a newly developed honeycomb structure solar cell into a sapphire crystal.

　Furthermore, the company has incorporated innovative approaches not only in terms of functionality but also in the materials used to construct its watches. The "Idea 2001 (commonly known as Astrolon)," released in 1971, was a watch that made extensive use of plastic from the case to the movement, and is said to be the root of Swatch, which later took the world by storm. In 1985, they released the "Rock Watch," which used granite for its case, and in 1987, the "Wood Watch," which featured a wooden case, demonstrating to the world the various possibilities of wristwatches.

　Thus, Tissot has led the watch industry by developing timepieces that keep pace with the times, driven by its exceptional marketing and development capabilities. This history and pioneering spirit are carried on in its modern collections.

　One of the defining characteristics of the company's collection is its broad coverage that meets diverse needs. The lineup includes everything from classic, traditional mechanical watches and tough diver's watches to connected watches that can link with smartphones, and even pocket watches.

　One collection that has garnered particular attention in recent years is the "Tissot PRX." The Tissot PRX is a collection characterized by its integrated bracelet case, based on the model of the same name that was born in 1978. The "PR" in the model name comes from the initials of "Precise" and "Robust," and the "X" comes from the Roman numeral "X" meaning "10," indicating that it has a water resistance of 10 atmospheres. It has become a huge hit because it fully reflects Tissot's characteristic high practicality, and has a wide lineup including case sizes, color variations, and mechanical and quartz movements. Based on archive pieces that have shaped the brand, the Tissot PRX reflects modern needs and specifications, and can be said to be a collection that shows Tissot's attitude of paying homage to the past while never stopping moving forward.

　And let's not forget that every collection maintains a high level of quality while keeping prices affordable. While watch prices have skyrocketed in recent years, Tissot has consistently maintained a price range mainly between tens of thousands and 30 yen. This is largely due to the massive capital of the Swatch Group. The Swatch Group includes movement manufacturer ETA and its component manufacturers, and by combining their technology and expertise, they are able to achieve both modest pricing and outstanding specifications.

　With its rich history, advanced technology, and affordable prices, Tissot is a brand that caters to a wide range of needs, from beginners considering their first high-end watch to luxury watch collectors looking for everyday wear, all through its extensive collection.

The extraordinary qualities of the "Powermatic 80"

　One element that symbolizes Tissot's high specifications is the "Powermatic 80," which is installed in many of their three-hand automatic winding models. It is based on the ETA Cal.2824-2, a basic movement that has been adopted by various brands and can be called the industry standard for mechanical automatic winding. Furthermore, its predecessor, the Cal.2824, was introduced in 1971, and its reliability is appealing because more than half a century has passed since the completion of its basic design.

　As its name suggests, the Powermatic 80 is a movement with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. For example, if you take off your watch on Friday night and don't wear it over the weekend, it will still be running when you arrive on Monday morning. Traditional power reserves, such as the Cal. 2824, were typically around 40 hours. However, with the intensification of competition in the watch market to develop in-house movements, longer power reserves have been achieved, mainly in the higher price range, creating a gap between lower-priced models with generic movements and higher-priced models with in-house movements. While the power reserves of generic movements have also increased recently, the Powermatic 80's impressive 80-hour specification has enough impact to overturn this perception.

　The main approaches to extending the power reserve are to either increase the power input to the gear train or decrease the power required to drive it. If the input is large and the output is small, the difference, which is the power reserve, will naturally be longer. The Powermatic 80 incorporates both of these methods. First, by reducing the diameter of the barrel arbor, the space inside the barrel is expanded, successfully accommodating a longer mainspring. In addition, the balance wheel's oscillation frequency has been reduced from 28,800 vibrations/hour in the base movement Cal.2824-2 to 21,600 vibrations/hour, allowing it to be driven with less torque.

　The Powermatic 80 is also characterized by its magnetic resistance. Many movement parts are made of iron-based metals, and when exposed to strong magnetic fields, these parts become magnetized and cease to function properly. In particular, if the hairspring, which is responsible for accuracy, becomes magnetized, the thin, spirally stacked hairsprings will stick together, causing disruptions in the oscillation period. On the other hand, the Powermatic 80 uses a Nivachron™ hairspring, which significantly reduces the amount of iron and uses titanium and niobium as its main materials, dramatically increasing its resistance to magnetism. There is also a variation of the Powermatic 80 that features a hairspring made of silicon, a non-magnetic material.

　While silicon hairsprings, commonly used in high-end movements, are fragile and require careful handling, the Nivachron™, being made of metal, offers the maintenance advantage of being handled in the same way as conventional hairsprings. This also differentiates it by allowing for combination with a regulator. At least at present, silicon hairsprings, with the exception of Omega's Spirate™ system, require combination with a free-sprung balance. In Tissot's Powermatic 80, a free-sprung balance is used even with a Nivachron™ hairspring, and precision adjustment is performed using a laser during assembly.

　Furthermore, Nivachron™ hairsprings possess the added characteristic of being highly resistant to temperature changes. Hairsprings made of metal expand and lose elasticity at high temperatures, and conversely contract and gain elasticity at low temperatures. Therefore, they tend to run slow at high temperatures and run fast at low temperatures. However, Nivachron™, due to its composition, is highly resistant to temperature changes, making it less susceptible to external environmental factors and allowing for consistent accuracy throughout the seasons.

　Based on a highly reliable, long-selling movement, the Powermatic 80 has been modernized with a practical power reserve and superior magnetic resistance, making it a groundbreaking engine that gives entry-level watches exceptional performance.

The "Powermatic 80" is divided into three levels.

　The Powermatic 80 movement, featured in many Tissot models, comes in three levels: Standard, Elaborated, and COSC, each with its own unique precision adjustments and finishes.

　The Standard model is used in Tissot's more affordable models, such as the "Classic Dream." The daily rate is adjusted to -4 to +10 seconds, providing sufficient accuracy for everyday use. Subtle yet appealing details enhance the sense of ownership, such as a satin finish on the bridge and a printed brand logo on the rotor.

　The Elaborated movement is used in flagship collections such as "Le Locle" and PRX. Its daily rate is adjusted to be a step higher than the standard, ranging from -2 seconds to +8 seconds, and the finishing is even more elaborate. In particular, some models feature skeletonized rotors or a wave-like decoration called "vague du temps," which can be enjoyed through the see-through case back.

The COSC-certified movement in the Tissot Ballade is characterized by its high precision, adjusted to a daily variation of -4 to +6 seconds based on COSC-certified chronometer standards, and its superior finish. The dial proudly displays the word "CHRONOMETER."

What is the latest "Gentleman 38mm" that demonstrates Tissot's capabilities?

　A good example of Tissot's current position is the new "Gentleman 38mm," announced in March 2026. The "Gentleman" is a practical collection characterized by its simple design suitable for daily use, and features 10 ATM water resistance and a sapphire crystal. While the automatic winding models equipped with the Powermatic 80 movement had previously only been available in 40mm diameter cases, a smaller 38mm diameter model has now been added to the lineup. This can be seen as a development that follows the recent trend of smaller watch sizes in the watch industry.

　Symbolizing gentlemanly style is the dial's classic design, devoid of any gimmicks, featuring wedge-shaped applied indices, pencil-shaped hour and minute hands tapering towards the tip, and a date display at the 3 o'clock position. The elegant sunray-finished dial is available in four variations: silver, black, blue, and green, allowing users to choose a color that suits their occasion or preference, from business to casual.

　A distinctive feature of the 38mm diameter case model is the pyramid-shaped dial with four facets that emerges through light reflection. While a 40mm diameter case model also featured a cross line in the center, the new model incorporates this element while also being redesigned to allow for a greater appreciation of the changing appearance.

　The case features a design that combines polished and brushed finishes, creating a sophisticated yet sporty look. The smooth bezel is polished, while the middle case has a brushed finish, providing a striking contrast. Similarly, the three-link stainless steel bracelet is polished in the center and brushed at both ends, harmonizing with the case.

　Furthermore, this model's bracelet features an interchangeable system that allows it to be easily removed from the case by pulling a lever attached to the spring bar with your fingertips. A wide variety of genuine brand straps are also available separately, so you can change them to rubber, leather straps, mesh bracelets, etc., to customize the watch to your liking.

　The watch features an elaborated Powermatic 80 movement. The transparent case back allows you to admire the skeletonized rotor and balance wheel. While the 40mm case model used a silicon balance spring, the 38mm case model uses a Nivachron™ balance spring. This, in part, contributes to its more affordable price, which is another attractive feature.

Tissot's strength lies in its value that exceeds its price.

　Tissot's popularity among watch enthusiasts goes beyond mere affordability. In today's watch industry, micro-brands are emerging worldwide, some of which focus on the tens of thousands to over a hundred thousand yen price range. In fact, it's becoming increasingly difficult to survive on price alone. Considering this, the fact that Tissot watches are perceived as offering higher value than their rivals in the same price range is likely the reason why the company has maintained its dominance in the entry-level market for so many years.

　So what is that value? To borrow the words of investor Warren Buffett regarding the difference between price and value, "Price is what you pay, value is what you gain." A wristwatch, which is both an ornament and a practical tool for telling time, and also an object of collection, requires both emotional and practical value. In the case of Tissot, the brand's history and achievements as a brand that has contributed to the progress and development of the watch industry throughout its long history since 1853, and the inclusion of traditional mechanical movements that embody the culmination of human ingenuity, evoke a sense of romance in the owner. Furthermore, the high-spec Powermatic 80, the robustly designed case, and the comprehensive after-sales service system provided by being part of a large group enhance its reliability as a tool for telling time.

　By possessing value in multiple aspects as a wristwatch, Tissot creates attractive products for many people and supplies them to the market at an affordable price range. In short, Tissot's strength lies in its high cost performance, but it is important not to forget that this is underpinned by its ability to develop products that capture current trends and the brand's continuous efforts to maintain its price range.