Jacob & Co. celebrates its 40th anniversary by unveiling the "Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut." This timepiece features diamonds set in the Angel Cut, an invented technique to achieve an exquisite sparkle. This watch perfectly embodies the brand's passion for complication watches and Jacob & Co.'s roots as a jeweler, making it a truly fitting model for the 40th anniversary.
[Article published on January 2, 2026]
Jacob & Co.'s 40th Anniversary model is an extremely rare and "special" model.
It was March 2026, a day in the freezing cold of New York City, USA. At Jacob & Co.'s flagship store, surrounded by photographs of numerous celebrity clients, an unveiling event for a certain "special jewelry watch" was being held.
It was explained that this watch is exceptionally "special" in every way. Firstly, it's for a "special anniversary." Secondly, the "cut" of the diamond in this watch is also said to be extremely special. It took two years to create this "cut," and they even obtained a "patent" for it, which should give you an idea of how "special" it is.
Yes, that watch is the "Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut." At first glance, it looks like Jacob & Co.'s "Billionaire Double Tourbillon," which is made up of an overwhelming number of gemstones, but I immediately sensed that "this watch is different from the other models."
Manual winding (Cal. JCAM50). 58 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K white gold case (54mm x 40mm, 11mm thick). 30m water resistance. Limited edition of 18 pieces worldwide. 598,400,000 yen.
The special radiance of "Angel Cut"
It's dazzling, yet it has a unique "sparkle." Although numerous diamonds are set, the light doesn't scatter; instead, it reflects "alignedly." This is one of the "special" features of this wristwatch: the "angel cut" applied to the diamonds.
A special anniversary model worth over 5 million yen
Another "special" aspect is that Jacob & Co. is celebrating its 40th anniversary. Furthermore, this watch is priced at a staggering 598.4 million yen. In today's watch industry, where the term "new release" has become somewhat cliché, this incredibly high price tag makes it a truly gorgeous timepiece, perfectly suited to this momentous 40th anniversary.
What kind of brand is Jacob & Co., to begin with? Let's trace the history of this brand as it celebrates its 40th anniversary.
Jacob & Co.'s 40-Year History
Jacob Arabo founded Jacob & Co. in New York in 1986. In the 1990s, his jewelry store became a status symbol for New York celebrities due to its flamboyant designs, and it became a symbol of a new generation of luxury—flashy, confident, instantly recognizable, and overwhelmingly luxurious.
Overwhelmingly unconventional ideas lead to rapid growth in the watch industry.
In the early 2000s, Jacob & Co., originally a jewelry store, established a watch division. It took a long time to develop this division. Their debut was the "Five Time Zone" watch, equipped with five quartz movements that instantly displayed the time in various parts of the world.
Quartz. Sold out model.
And so, it has grown into a full-fledged player in haute horlogerie, producing technically intricate creations that even Swiss craftsmen are amazed by, such as the "Twin Turbo Furious" and the "Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon." The four-axis tourbillon of last year's "Astronomia Revolution" is the latest example of this.
Caliber JCAM54 (hand-wound). 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 36 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 47.00mm, thickness 27.00mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Limited to 18 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.
Jacob & Co.'s philosophy: Turning the impossible into the possible with a wristwatch.
For its 40th anniversary, Jacob & Co. could have easily celebrated by simply upgrading popular models or releasing reissues. But Jacob & Co. would never settle for that. They deliberately chose the more difficult path, fusing their origins with advanced watchmaking techniques. The philosophy of founder Jacob Arabo, "Inspired by the Impossible," was evident here as well.
A facet imbued with the name of my beloved wife and the journey of 37 years.
The name "Angel Cut" comes from Jacob Arabo's wife, Angela (editor's note: the name Angela has its roots in the Spanish word for "angel"). This cut has 37 precisely calculated facets, a number that represents the 37 years the couple has spent together.
This skillful technique of linking biographical significance with technical specifications adds emotional depth to the cut without compromising its technical quality in any way, because what the Angel Cut has achieved is truly remarkable from a gemological perspective.
A challenge to an ancient problem in the history of diamonds
The fundamental question that Jacob & Co. faced in its development was one of the oldest and most challenging problems in the history of diamond cutting.
In other words, the challenge lies in how to overcome the structural trade-off of a "modest sparkle" while maintaining the elegant and understated beauty of the rectangular shape that characterizes the Asscher cut and emerald cut, which are developments of the step cut.
In other words, it was a challenge to respect the beautiful rectangular silhouette established by our predecessors while simultaneously fusing it with a rich light from another dimension.
Geometric modulation of light and three-dimensional brilliance
The Angel Cut attempts to resolve this contradiction through "geometry." Its most distinctive feature is the placement of a rhombus-shaped table (top surface) within a stepped rectangular outline with rounded corners.
This unusual combination alters the path of light within the stone. Instead of linear reflection patterns, a three-dimensional luminous region is created, which modulates and reflects light rather than simply collecting it quietly.
The height, depth, and facet orientation of the crown (the top of the gemstone) are meticulously calculated, allowing the stone to emit a rich, upward-facing light even in situations where light is limited, such as in a setting where stones are densely packed.
Not a flash of light, but a light welling up from within.
The 37 facets are significantly fewer than those of many conventional brilliant cuts, but this is intentional. Each facet plays a clearly defined optical role. In other words, "fewer facets mean greater precision."
Seeing the finished product in person reveals that this description is by no means an exaggeration. The brilliance of the angel cut has a certain architectural beauty to it. Rather than emitting an aggressive, glaring flash, it emits a continuous, radiant light that seems to well up from within.
The fact that this cut is patented not only protects Jacob & Co. from easy imitation, but also underscores their pride in pursuing "true gemology" rather than merely superficially rebranding existing patterns.
A 79-carat diamond to a "billionaire"
In which timepiece did Jacob & Co. introduce this new cut? It was in the Billionaire collection, which has been the maison's flagship collection since 2015.
The numerous diamonds set in this watch feature a linear emerald cut. Unlike the brilliant cut, which exhibits a dazzling, reflective sparkle, this diamond has a more subdued brilliance. It features a hand-wound movement (Cal. JCAM50), 58 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. The 18K white gold case measures 54mm x 40mm, with a thickness of 11mm. It is water-resistant to 30 meters. This limited edition watch is limited to 18 pieces worldwide. Price: ¥418,176,000 (including tax).
Previous Billionaire models have employed emerald or Asscher cuts to create the collection's signature "seamless surface of light." Now, the Angel Cut takes over that role, and its debut will take place on an unimaginably opulent stage.
Unimaginably luxurious case and decorations
The 18K white gold case measures 54mm in height, 41mm in width, and 13.2mm in thickness. The bezel and case sides alone are set with 98 angel-cut diamonds, totaling a staggering 51.13 carats. Among them are some exceptionally large single stones.
The crown is adorned with a 1-carat rose-cut diamond. The dial is also fully pavé-set, with 88 angel-cut diamonds (approximately 11 carats) and 80 baguette-cut diamonds (approximately 1.14 carats) framing the openings of the two tourbillons.
The buckle of the blue alligator leather strap is further set with 30 angel-cut diamonds (approximately 15.72 carats).
The overwhelming brilliance is supported by advanced craftsmanship.
Looking at the whole set, there are 298 white diamonds totaling approximately 79 carats. These numbers alone are overwhelming enough. But what is critically important is that the fundamental principle of invisible setting is adhered to, meaning that "no metal prongs (setting metal) are visible between the stones, and the surface of light is uninterrupted."
Achieving such a complex case shape requires an extremely high level of craftsmanship, a skill possessed by only a select few brands in the world of high jewelry.
A movement composed of as many as 460 parts
Beating beneath this dazzling sea of light is the hand-wound manufacture movement Cal.JCAM50, composed of 460 parts. Its most distinctive feature is the two flying one-minute tourbillons positioned at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.
This symmetrical arrangement creates mechanical axial symmetry, which beautifully resonates with the visual symmetry of the diamond setting above it. The light spreading from above and the mechanism hidden below—both follow the same order.
Proof of being a true manufacture
The Cal.JCAM50 boasts a power reserve of approximately 72 hours and operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The sapphire crystal case back allows you to admire the skeletonized movement's architectural structure.
The fact that this movement is entirely in-house developed is by no means an incidental factor when considering the positioning of this watch. The "Billionaire" model has always been a symbol of Jacob & Co. asserting its firm position not merely as a case manufacturer that uses movements from other companies, but as a true "watch manufacture."
The ultimate assertion and a unique philosophy that permeates it all.
The price tag exceeds 5 million yen. This figure should not be judged in isolation, but rather compared to the works offered by other brands in the same price range. What Jacob & Co. is presenting here is not simply an existing watch with extravagant decorations. It is a fundamentally different philosophy: "maximum density, maximum assertiveness, and absolutely no 'modesty'."
Jacob & Co. has never feigned humility. Their unwavering consistency in this direction over 40 years deserves respect, even from those with differing tastes.
"Limited to 18 pieces" as the pinnacle of craftsmanship.
At this price point, the "limited to 18 pieces worldwide" figure isn't merely a commercial rarity appeal strategy. It's a physical reality of craftsmanship. To fill a case of this size and complexity with hundreds of angel-cut diamonds in an invisible setting, without leaving any gaps, requires sourcing the stones and an immense amount of work—it's simply not something that can be mass-produced.
A sincere contribution to gemology and an admission ticket that tests its true value.
The "Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut" is not a model that can be discussed from a neutral standpoint. Jacob & Co. demands a clear stance from the viewer, and perhaps that is precisely their intention.
What definitively distinguishes this timepiece from a mere symbol of authority is the sincere and substantial contribution that the Angel Cut has made to gemology. Approximately two years of development, the acquisition of a unique patent, and a logical and consistent approach to the "architecture of light" in rectangular gemstones—these are undeniably compelling works of art.
Only time will tell whether this new cut will have a lasting impact on the industry or if it will be limited to this initial production run of 18 pieces. In the competition for ultra-luxury jewelry watches, Jacob & Co. has established itself with this timepiece as "a maison that creates not only the most expensive timepieces, but also the most technically original ones."
That is their pride and joy. The price of over 5 million yen is an admission ticket to witness its true essence with your own eyes.
