The miracle of De Bethune, an independent brand where "the blue of the sky" and innovation intertwine.

FEATURES WatchTime
2026.04.08

In the world of luxury watches, where centuries of tradition reigns supreme, De Bethune is an unconventional brand that has rewritten the rules in just a few decades. Since its founding in 2002, it has fused artistic beauty with overwhelming mechanical innovation, quickly rising to the elite of haute horlogerie. We delve into the avant-garde charm and history of this brand, which continues to captivate watch enthusiasts with its striking "Celestial Blue" signature color and spherical moon phase that requires no adjustment for 122 years.

De Bethune "DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon"

De Bethune "DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon" Ref. DB28TBMW
Manual winding (Cal. DB2019). 36,000 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. Titanium (38mm diameter, 8mm thickness). Limited edition of 10 pieces worldwide.
Text by Martin Green, originally published by watchtime.com
[Article published on January 8, 2026]

A vivid blue rhapsody of haute horlogerie. by De Bethune

 In the world of watches, some brands are born with centuries of legacy, while others rewrite the rules in just a few decades. De Bethune undoubtedly belongs to the latter category.

 Founded in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageolet, this independent manufacture has built its reputation on mechanical innovation, artistic boldness, and its signature Celestial Blue aesthetic.

Denis Flagolet

Denis Flagolet is one of the founders.

 In just about 20 years, they achieved what many brands take centuries to accomplish: establishing an unshakeable position among the elite of haute horlogerie (high-end watchmaking).

Origins and Vision

DB25 Starry Various Aerolite

De Bethune "DB25 Starry Various Aerolight" Ref. DB25VTM
Manual winding (Cal. DB2109V4). 43 jewels. 36,000 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. Titanium (42mm diameter, 10.3mm thickness). 3 ATM water resistance. Limited edition of 5 pieces worldwide.

 De Bethune was never a project launched out of vanity, but rather a means to generate complete creative freedom. Zanetta, an art dealer and watch collector, and Flageolet, a fourth-generation watchmaker, fused the complementary worlds of design and technical expertise to create a truly unique timepiece.

De Bethune "DB28XS Starry Seasons"

De Bethune "DB28XS Starry Seasons" Ref. DB28XSTIS3
Manual winding (Cal. DB2005). 27 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 144 hours. Titanium (diameter 38.7mm, thickness 7.4mm).

 Their early collaborations pushed the boundaries of both function and form, drawing inspiration from history while embracing radical modernity.

Design and Innovation

Making-of images

This is an image of a model being assembled that features a spherical moon phase display. Based on the moon phase specifications, it appears to be the "DB16 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon," but what do you think?

 From its spherical moon phase display to its titanium case, dyed a rich and vibrant blue through heat treatment, de Bethune's aesthetic innovations are just as important as its mechanical advancements. The most prominent example is the brand's signature moon phase display, which boasts such precision that it requires adjustment only once every 122 years.

Collaboration and Craftsmanship

 De Bethune's creativity extends to collaborations, such as the intricate engraving on the "Métiers d'Art" model and the bespoke interpretation for "Day of the Dead." Each project reflects a fusion of technical skill and visual storytelling.

Valuation and Heritage

 Less than 10 years after its founding, de Bethune won the prestigious "Golden Hand Award" at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG), the most authoritative award in the industry. This solidified its position as one of the leading forces in independent watchmaking, earning the admiration of both collectors and peers. Having created more than 30 movements and achieved countless innovations, de Bethune continues to prove that modern watchmaking can respect tradition while boldly venturing into the future.



De Bethune "DB28 Kind of Blue Milky Way" - A three-dimensional moon phase and brilliant galaxy floating in the deep blue sky

FEATURES

Introducing the De Bethune "DB25 Starry Various Aerolite," a limited edition of five watches made with rare meteorites

FEATURES

Are complicated watches from small fashion houses recession-proof? Watches that maintain stable prices on the secondary market

FEATURES