Is the "deepening" of Chopard's 2026 new collection inevitable? Further refinement of usability and a new interpretation of "style."

2026.04.17
PR: Chopard

 Looking at Chopard's new collection unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026, it appears they are shifting towards further enhancing the perfection of their existing models. One of these changes is in their "appearance." In addition to the nuanced color dials they have been working with for some time, Chopard has introduced two approaches they had never attempted before: "field watches" and "patina." Furthermore, the "Alpine Eagle" has been improved with features that enhance usability. Let's explore these changes through the new models.

Text by Yosuke Ohashi (Kronos Japan):
Text by Yousuke Ohashi (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 17, 2026]


Chopard's new releases have undergone further "deepening."

 The 2026 Watches & Wonders Geneva show has finally begun, and Chopard unveiled new watches at the event. To summarize these new models in one word, it would be a reinterpretation of "style." Chopard's long-standing pursuit of nuanced color dials has expanded even further, and this technique has now been adopted in the milestone model, the "LUC 1860."

 In addition, models that represent a shift in thinking about "appearance" have also appeared. One of them is the "LUC Time Traveler One." In Chopard, which is strongly associated with dress watches, this model emphasizes a field watch feel by using a khaki color for the dial. Furthermore, in another new model, the "Mille Miglia Classic Patina," the case has been treated with a finish that evokes the appearance of aging, a first for Chopard.

 With these new models, Chopard seems to be aiming for a new interpretation of "style" compared to its previous models. The resulting "elegance" transcends the boundaries of "high-quality and highly accurate mechanical watches," elevating the company's timepieces to the level of "a presence that is completed within an outfit."

 Furthermore, the refined usability of the new "Alpine Eagle" model is also noteworthy. The adoption of a new movement with magnetic resistance and a bracelet equipped with micro-adjustments make the watch more comfortable to wear in everyday life.

 Now, let's take a look at some of the new Chopard models that were unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva and that we think deserve special attention.

LUC 1860

 First, let me introduce the new variation of the LUC 1860. The LUC 1860 was a model that shocked the watch industry, as Chopard had already established a reputation as a jeweler. The reason for this was that they designed and manufactured the movement from scratch in-house. And it wasn't just a matter of "making" it.

 The Cal.1.96 (now Cal.LUC 96.01-L), an in-house developed and manufactured movement unveiled in 1996, achieved extremely meticulous decoration and finishing, earning it the Geneva Seal. In addition, it boasted high accuracy, making it an exceptionally well-crafted product despite being the first of its kind. The model equipped with this movement was the LUC 1860, which was released the following year.

Chopard "LUC 1860" Ref. 168860-3005
Automatic movement (Cal. LUC 96.40-L). 29 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Lucent Steel™ case (36.50mm diameter, 8.20mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Estimated price: 19,041,000 yen (tax included).

 The LUC 1860, a landmark model, was once retired from production but made a comeback in 2023. This new model, lacking a date display window at the 6 o'clock position, can be seen as a new variation of the salmon-colored model released in 2023.

 But is it really fair to interpret this simply as "the addition of new colors"? This new release seems to be a manifestation of Chopard's unwavering confidence in its "nuanced color dials."

The case back is transparent, allowing you to admire the Cal.LUC 96.40-L movement. This movement has earned the Geneva Seal and belongs to the lineage of the exceptionally high-quality Cal.1.96 (now Cal.LUC 96.01-L).

 This is because, while the salmon color of the dial in the previous model certainly beautifully expressed subtle nuances, it was one of the classic colors in watchmaking. In contrast, the new model features a subdued blue color, named Alluse Blue after the Alluse River that flows near the manufacture.

 In fact, what's noteworthy is the color scheme inspired by the place name. Chopard has already released several nuanced colors in its Alpine Eagle collection that are named after the Alps.

 Chopard used to pursue precision in its movements, but its dial colors were often austere, such as black or silver. However, with the later Alpine Eagle, they experimented with a variety of nuanced colors, broadening their range of expression.

 The fact that this trend was incorporated into the LUC 1860, a symbolic representation of the first step, coinciding with the 30th anniversary of the founding of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, should be seen as a declaration of Chopard's commitment to putting more emphasis on "dressmaking."

LUC Time Traveler One

 From the new models announced this time, let me introduce another model that shows a strong emphasis on "style." That is the LUC Time Traveler One, which features a khaki-colored dial.

 The "ceramized titanium" used in this model is a material that combines the best of both worlds: its surface is ceramicized through a plasma treatment that oxidizes the surface layer of titanium, resulting in extremely high Vickers hardness that makes it resistant to minor scratches, and the crack resistance that comes with being a metal.

 Up until now, Chopard has tended to unify the entire watch in monochrome when using ceramicized titanium cases. This gave the impression of a high-tech and mysterious experimental machine, much like a stealth fighter jet.

Chopard "LUC Time Traveler One" Ref. 168574-3013
Automatic movement (Cal.LUC 01.05-L). 39 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Ceramized Grade 5 titanium case (42mm diameter, 12.09mm thickness). 50m water resistance. Limited edition of 250 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 2,871,000 yen (including tax).

 Chopard has given new possibilities to this ceramicized titanium: a field watch. Ceramized titanium, which is inherently resistant to minor scratches, is a case material that should be used extensively in the outdoors. The LUC Time Traveler One, with its newly adopted khaki-colored dial, embodies this potential.

 Chopard has undergone a complete image change in terms of "materials and appearance." They have succeeded in competing not only with dress watches, but also with field watches primarily designed for land use, rather than diver's or pilot's watches.

 One reason for adopting such a practical design might be that the LUC Time Traveler One is a wristwatch designed with convenience in mind. The city discs, characteristic of a world timer, can be intuitively operated using a special crown adorned with a globe symbol, making adjustment easy.

The case back of the new "LUC Time Traveler One" features a colored sapphire crystal, allowing you to see the Cal.LUC 01.05-L movement inside.

 In addition, the high legibility of the dial is another reason. The existing LUC Time Traveler One had a sector-type dial that separated the overwhelming amount of information, thus organizing the information.

 This has been further updated in the new model. The hour and minute hands are white, while the second hand and the date display hand are a dark yellow, allowing you to intuitively find the hand you're looking for. The distinctive shape of the font also contributes to its high legibility. This thin yet extremely precise font does not hinder readability, and is a major factor in giving the overall look a refined and chic impression.

LUC XPS Prussian Blue

 And finally, let me introduce one last model from LUC: the "LUC XPS," now available in a new Prussian Blue color. The LUC XPS has a case thickness of only 7.2mm, but its movement boasts such high precision that it has obtained COSC certification, making it a dress watch.

Chopard "LUC XPS Prussian Blue" Ref. 168629-3002
Automatic movement (Cal. LUC 96.12-L). 29 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Lucent Steel™ case (40mm diameter, 7.2mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Estimated price: 19,041,000 yen (tax included).

 The current model features a sector dial that gives it a modern look, and while it was previously only available with a green dial, a blue color has now been added to the lineup. This addition of color will provide a new option to suit a wider range of styles.

The new "LUC XPS" features a deep blue dial. The off-white indices and markings are the same color as the green dial model.

 This deep blue dial, with its sunburst satin finish, has the unique characteristic of changing color depending on the angle of light, and the origin of its color is also intriguing.

 The "Prussian Blue" in the name refers to the Kingdom of Prussia, which was once part of present-day Germany. You might wonder why Chopard, a Swiss watch brand, would use this color. The canton of Neuchâtel, where Chopard's workshop is located in Fleurier, is actually part of Switzerland, but it has a unique historical background: from 1707 to 1857, it was a duchy with the monarch of the Kingdom of Prussia as its head of state.

 Furthermore, Prussian blue actually has a connection to Japan. This color, the first modern synthetic pigment, was called "Berlin blue" or "Prussian blue" in Berlin, the capital of Prussia, and was introduced to Japan during the Edo period, where it caused a major revolution in the world of ukiyo-e (woodblock prints). Until then, ukiyo-e had mostly used green and red, but thanks to Prussian blue, it became possible to express a deep blue.

 Just as Katsushika Hokusai once revolutionized the conventions of ukiyo-e prints with his deep blue Prussian blue, "LUC XPS" may also be intended to innovate the world of "fashion" with its multi-layered blue that changes its impression depending on the lighting.

Alpine Eagle 41 AM

 Next, let's take a look at the new Alpine Eagle model. It has been modified to be more user-friendly for everyday use, improving usability. One example is the "Alpine Eagle 41 AM".

Chopard "Alpine Eagle 41 AM" Ref. 298600-3038
Automatic movement (Cal. Chopard 01.01-C). 31 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Lucent Steel™ case (41mm diameter, 9.75mm thickness). 100m water resistance. Estimated price: 2,420,000 yen (including tax).

 Modern society is permeated with magnetism everywhere. Computers and smartphones, and other everyday items, pose a significant risk. Therefore, utmost care is needed when wearing a wristwatch. Alpine Eagle's new model is designed to allow for worry-free wear.

The movement, Cal. Chopard 01.01-C, can be viewed through the case back. While the movement's layout and naming conventions are basically the same as those used in other "Alpine Eagle" models, the balance spring and other components have been revised.

 This new Alpine Eagle 41 AM reportedly reduces the effects of magnetism to about 1/15th by using a non-magnetic material in the balance spring. This is indicated by the U-shaped magnet with a diagonal line through it on the dial. However, the material itself has not yet been revealed. Let's look forward to further updates.

 Also, please note that the bracelet is more tapered than the previous version, giving it a more contemporary feel.

Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

The "Alpine Eagle 41 XPS." Named with "XP" for extra-plat and "S" for small seconds, this model is truly the flagship of the Alpine Eagle series.

 This is because it is equipped with the Cal.LUC 96.40-L movement, which boasts high precision and intricate decoration, also used in the LUC 1860. In addition, it achieves a case thickness of only 8mm, making it a truly exceptional model.

Chopard "Alpine Eagle 41 XPS" Ref. 298623-3003
Automatic movement (Cal.LUC 96.40-L). 29 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Lucent Steel™ case (41.00mm diameter, 8.00mm thickness). 100m water resistance. Estimated price: 4.4 million yen (including tax).

 At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026, this model was introduced with a new version featuring a delicate champagne-colored dial called Mountain Glow. While the elegant color is captivating, that's not the only thing that stands out.

 One of the features added to the bracelet is "micro-adjustment." By extending or contracting the links on either side of the butterfly-style folding clasp, it's now easy to fine-tune the size to fit your wrist.

 Simply adjusting the links doesn't guarantee a perfect fit for everyone's wrist. Furthermore, a person's wrist size can even change depending on the time of day. Therefore, the ability to make fine adjustments allows for the best possible fit. Alpine Eagle has become even closer to the ideal fit for the actual wearer.

 Furthermore, this bracelet also has a stronger taper compared to the previous model. Additionally, the "Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Gold," which was also announced, now features a fine-tuning mechanism.

Mille Miglia Classic Patina

 The Mille Miglia collection, which symbolizes the connection between Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and the classic car race Mille Miglia, also features models that are noteworthy from a "fashion" perspective.

Chopard "Mille Miglia Classic Patina" Ref. 168619-3010
Automatic winding. 37 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 54 hours. Lucent Steel™ case (40.5mm diameter, 12.88mm thickness). 50m water resistance. Limited edition of 100 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 1,804,000 yen (including tax).

 This is the "Mille Miglia Classic Patina." Patina refers to the aging process, which in the case of watches is most likely to occur on the case and dial. As the name suggests, the edges of the case surface of this new wristwatch are worn down, giving it the impression of having been cherished for a long time.

Please note that the edges of the DLC coating on the bezel and lugs have been shaved down due to the Tribo finish process.

 First, the case is coated with black DLC (diamond-like carbon fiber), and then a tribofinish process is applied, which uses vibrating ceramic particles to finish the surface, creating a worn-in look on the edges and other parts. As a result, even though it is brand new, it gives the impression of being a model that has been cherished for a long time.

 Chopard, with its origins as a jeweler and its reputation for extremely high-quality surface finishing, has added a new expression to its lineup, showcasing the expanding possibilities in Chopard's watchmaking. The background to this attempt at expression lies in the aesthetic of the classic car world, where, rather than completely restoring a car, the aging process is preserved as part of its charm.

Rule of Diamant

 And finally, let me introduce the "L'Heure de Diamant" from Chopard's newly announced ladies' models. This timepiece is inspired by an archive model from the 1960s and features a fluted gold link bracelet that seamlessly connects from the dial to the bracelet.

Chopard "Le Rule de Diamant" Ref.10A387-1515
Manual winding (Cal. Chopard 09.01-C). 27 jewels. 25,200 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18K ethical white gold case (33mm x 33mm, 9.3mm thick). 30m water resistance. Estimated price: 16,797,000 yen (including tax).

 Despite its small size of 33 x 33 mm, it is equipped with the Cal. Chopard 09.01-C mechanical movement. Chopard's current watchmaking, for both men and women, is brimming with a passion for mechanical watches and a desire to refresh its aesthetic.

"Deepening" is by no means a coincidence.

 A new challenge in nuanced colors, an expansion of material expression, and improved usability—all of these are extensions of the journey Chopard has taken so far. Each model is not merely an individual update, but rather a clearer indication of the brand's overall direction. Chopard's current position, having matured even further, is quietly emerging through this "deepening."


Contact info: Chopard Japan Press Tel. 03-5524-8922

Interview with Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele: "We wanted to create a limited edition model inspired by Japan"

FEATURES

The latest evolution of elegant watches with rich individuality


Chopard LUC Limited Collection Reinterprets "Japanese Beauty"

FEATURES