[Geneva Diary Day 1] After being tossed about by the rough waves of life with a Rolex, then Tudor, Grand Seiko, Jaeger-LeCoultre → my head exploded but I was soothed by L'Epée 1839

2026.04.19

Watches & Wonders Geneva will be held in Geneva, Switzerland from April 14th to 20th, 2026. Masayuki Hirota, editor-in-chief of the watch magazine "Chronos Japan," has been updating the "Geneva Diary" every year despite his exhaustion, but this year, Chieko Tsuruoka from the editorial department, who is covering the event on-site for the first time, has taken over. She will share the atmosphere of the new product trade fair along with her challenging yet enjoyable (really?) days in Geneva.

[Geneva Diary Day 0] 1 yen has turned into 42 Swiss francs (shudders). Covering the new watch exhibition.

FEATURES

Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos Japan): Photos and text
Text by Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos-Japan
[Article published on January 19, 2026]


My first Watches & Wonders coverage in Geneva was an immediate baptism of fire.

Monarch

I'm writing this diary entry on the evening of the third day of my reporting trip. Of all the watches I've seen, the Tudor "Monarch" left a particularly strong impression. Find out why in this diary entry!

 I woke up at 4 AM Swiss time on April 14th. Incidentally, I've been to Switzerland twice before for reporting, and no matter how late I stayed up the night before or how tired I was, I always woke up around this time. This lack of sleep was probably one of the factors that drained my energy later on.

 Anyway, I had heard that the venue would open at 8:30, so I ate breakfast and headed to the station to catch the 7:5 train.

Delicious breakfast

Breakfast consisted of several types of bread, ham, cheese, egg dishes, sausages, yogurt, and fruit. The lineup was pretty much the same every day. The bread and cheese were really delicious, and I was especially hooked on the pain au chocolat, eating two every morning.

Geneva Station looks like Misato-Chuo Station.

The hotel had guests who appeared to be affiliated with Watches & Wonders Geneva, and several journalists were staying there for trade fair coverage. However, there were also many residential areas, and the trains were fairly crowded with local commuters. To give you an idea, it's like Misato-Chuo Station on the Tsukuba Express line in Japan.

 I transferred in Cornavin and headed to Geneva Airport. During the Watches & Wonders Geneva event, a dedicated desk is set up in front of the departure gates at the airport, so I asked there for directions to the shuttle bus to Palexpo, the venue. It seemed that the previous flight had just departed, so I was told to wait a little before being taken there by minibus.

 I spoke to everyone at the desk and the minibus driver in my broken English, saying, "This is my first time at Watches & Wonders Geneva!" Thank you so much for listening with a smile (I did a sliding bow of gratitude).

 Then we arrived at the venue. Even though it was only a little past 8am, there was a long line. We ran into the Chronos magazine team, who were staying in Geneva, and exchanged greetings.

Entrance

I took a commemorative photo in front of the venue. I've set it as my phone's wallpaper.

Escalator

By just after 8 AM, there was already a long line. It's Disneyland, I can see why.

 While all this was going on, we finally made it inside the venue. Our first destination was the Rolex booth. It was located in a secluded area away from the entrance, and it took us about five minutes to get there, only to find a crowd already gathered.

Rolex

It was around 8:30 AM in front of the Rolex booth. It was bustling with many visitors. Some brave souls were already taking pictures and interviewing people!

 Because the booth itself was so large, I started looking at the showcases and exhibits that weren't yet crowded, but then visitors with cameras started pouring in one after another. Some people stuck their smartphones in front of my camera while I was still taking pictures, and others pushed me aside to try and take photos... I thought to myself, "Is this the baptism of fire at Watches & Wonders Geneva...!" but I did my best not to be outdone.

 Incidentally, for the sake of my own reputation and the reputation of all Watches & Wonders Geneva attendees, including the editorial staff of this magazine, I should mention that this kind of pushing and shoving only occurred in front of the Rolex booth during the entire event, and is not typical of the trade fair. Watches & Wonders Geneva is both a trade fair and a "salon," so the visitors are generally well-mannered.

Oyster Perpetual Yachtmaster II

Rolex's new 2026 model, the "Oyster Perpetual Yachtmaster II." While I was taking this photo, someone pushed me aside, saying "Sorry, sorry." There's a saying in Japan, "If 'sorry' was enough, we wouldn't need the police."

booth

Although you can't touch them, actual machines and some of their parts are on display. As I've mentioned several times in this diary, the booths of each brand, each with its own unique and elaborate design, were exciting just to look at.

Daytona dial

The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is the first to feature a Grand Feu enamel dial. It has a completely different texture from previous models such as the "porcelain dial" and "albino dial."


It was precisely because it was "good" that my head exploded...

 After photographing Rolex and looking around the surrounding booths, I headed to Tudor for my first interview at 9am. The booth featured the familiar red and black color scheme also used in Tudor boutiques. I was greeted by Ms. M and viewed the new collection in the press room.

 The all-new "Monarch" collection has a different feel from previous Tudor models, and although Tudor doesn't explicitly say so, I felt it was a watch that redefined the "luxury sports" concept. We also covered a wealth of other new watches, including the "Black Bay Ceramic," "Black Bay 54," and "Black Bay 58."

Monarch

This extensive use of facets in the exterior is a feature not seen in previous models such as the "Black Bay" and "Royal." Polishing reportedly takes more than twice as long as on standard models.

Black Bay Ceramic

At first glance, it looks like a bracelet version, but the "Black Bay Ceramic" features a redesigned case and dial. It looks really cool.

bracelet

What I found puzzling was the shape of the parts that connect the pieces. In this piece, which is fastened with screws, the opposite side of the screw head had a curved shape that followed the shape of the piece. Incidentally, when I inquired with Ms. M, she told me that the screws are made of stainless steel with a black PVD coating, and the strangely shaped nuts are made of ceramic (Thank you as always, Ms. M! I will email you with my thanks and additional questions once things have settled down).

Royal

The new "Royal" color also caught my eye. The diamond setting also gives a sense of meticulous craftsmanship.

 I was so thrilled with Tudor's new watch that I shot a video while the excitement was still fresh. Please check it out if you'd like!

 Next, I went to Grand Seiko. The booth's setup, which was linked to the new watches, gave me the illusion of being underwater (perhaps I was tired?). The way the spheres of light flowed randomly up and down evoked the spray and bubbles of a large waterfall, which inspired the new diver's watch "Shio" and the new "Masterpiece Collection."

The sight of the spheres constantly moving is fantastical, offering a moment of tranquility.

GS

The "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver," a small diver's watch equipped with the high-precision Spring Drive "UFA," was released last year. While the "Tide" dial is noteworthy, this model, with its smaller diameter, thinner profile, and lighter weight thanks to the use of bright titanium, would surely be among the top four diver's watches (lol). Since there have been many inquiries about the bracelet on social media, I'll add that, like the case, it's made of bright titanium, and the links are connected with pins. The buckle features a micro-adjustment mechanism and extender, first introduced in last year's UFA. Overall, it's lightweight and well-balanced. However, with many companies focusing on improving buckles and bracelets, including micro-adjustment mechanisms, this year some users might feel it's not quite up to par for the price.

Masterpiece Collection Hand-wound Spring Drive Engraved Limited Edition

The "Masterpiece Collection Hand-wound Spring Drive Engraved Limited Edition" is manufactured at the "Micro Artist Studio" within Seiko Epson's Shiojiri Plant in Nagano Prefecture. The engraving is inspired by the Tateshina Great Waterfall, located in the primeval forest of the Tateshina Plateau in Shinshu. What is astonishing is that such intricate engraving has been applied to the complex case shape based on the "44GS."

 The upload was delayed until the following day, but I also filmed a video about Grand Seiko's new watches.

 Next up was the Jaeger-LeCoultre touch and try session (where you can actually touch the watches). The luxury of having Takahiro Hamaguchi, the brand's product development director, act as interpreter! I got to handle and photograph a number of rare watches that you don't usually get to see, such as the "Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon" and the "Reverso Tribute Enamel Katsushika Hokusai Tour of Waterfalls Series," and basked in pure bliss. However, around this point, I started to feel my head spinning. Perhaps because I'd never seen so many watches and absorbed so much information in one day, I became confused and feverish.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon

The "Master Grand Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date" features a pointer date that jumps as it moves through a tourbillon housed within a large opening.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon

"Master Hybrids Mechanica Ultra-Slim Minute Repeater Tourbillon." After this, we'll actually get to hear the repeater in action...!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Capsule Collection Series: La Vallée des Merveilles – The Mysterious Valley™

"Reverso One Capsule Collection Series: La Vallée des Merveilles – The Mysterious Valley™". Not only the movement, but also the enamel and gem setting are among Jaeger-LeCoultre's signature features.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Katsushika Hokusai Tour of Waterfalls Series

"Reverso Tribute Enamel Katsushika Hokusai Tour of Waterfalls Series." The mark placed in the lower right corner of the enamel painting is the secret signature of the enamel craftsman. By looking at this, you can tell who created which enamel.

 Even though I was confused, the interview wouldn't wait, so next I headed to the A. Lange & Söhne booth. A gigantic "Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 'Lumen'" greeted me. A. Lange & Söhne, though not producing many models each year, always puts out some incredible (lack of vocabulary) models. This Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen" isn't just a sapphire crystal dial with luminous paint (it is Lange, after all). To make the "Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar" into the "Lumen," they equipped it with a newly developed movement, Cal. L225.1. The movement for the "Saxonia Annual Calendar," which now has a 36mm diameter case, is also newly developed, of course.

A. Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”

The highlight of the A. Lange & Söhne booth at Watches & Wonders Geneva was the large clock, which even features a rotating and light-up mechanism.

A. Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”

The "Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 'Lumen'" illuminated. I never realized the light could be this intense.

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

The "Saxonia Annual Calendar." The push button at the 10 o'clock position allows you to advance all calendar displays at once. And the feel of pressing it is really nice.

 Next up is Hublot. The highlight is the "Big Bang Reloaded." As always, they let you enjoy ceramics with a variety of colors, but this time there seems to be a concept to highlight the five patented technologies of the "Unico" movement it houses, and the column wheel at the 6 o'clock position and the backlash-reducing horizontal clutch at the 8 o'clock position are particularly distinctive for their coloring.

Hublot Big Bang Reloaded

"Big Bang Reloaded Blue Ceramic." Personally, I was surprised that the outer edge of the bezel was made of titanium. The reason given was "for robustness and to emphasize the fusion of different materials."

Hublot Big Bang Reloaded

The "Spirit of Big Bang Impact All Black" was released to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the "All Black" series. It features sharply shaped sapphire crystals embedded in the dial. Seriously, how did they make that?

The illustration of the balance wheel was what the Chronos Japan team was most excited about when they came to interview us. The escape wheel is made of silicon, and the pallet stones have been eliminated.

 Just as we were leaving Hublot, we received some fun photos from the Chronos Japan team...

(From right) Rainer Bernard, head of research and development at Van Cleef & Arpels, and Hiroyuki Suzuki from our magazine's editorial department. The photo appears to have been taken at a photo spot inside the brand's booth.


Gecko → Bulgari → Panerai → IWC

 I sat on the sofa to rest my head for a bit (it was already 16 PM, so I had completely missed lunch), and as I looked around, I noticed something cute looking at me...! It was a gecko clock from L'Epée 1839.

A clock from L'Epée 1839. It can be attached to walls or slopes by 10 parts (I couldn't hear what the parts were for...) placed on the gecko's feet.

 I was soothed by the geckos (though their price was anything but cute), and feeling a little more energized, I headed to the Bulgari booth tour. While I couldn't see or photograph the actual watches during the booth tour, I was immersed in the Bulgari world. What I found particularly interesting was the details about the manufacturing of the new Cal.BVF 100 automatic movement, which is featured in the new 37mm diameter Octo Finissimo model. It's a new design, different from the conventional Octo Finissimo movement, but the inspiration for this design doesn't come from the conventional thin Octo Finissimo movement, but from the small, hand-wound movement "Piccolissimo" that has been used in ladies' high jewelry watches. It's an inspiration typical of Bulgari, a company with a long history of working with jewelry.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo

This is one of three 37mm diameter Octo Finissimo models released at Watches & Wonders Geneva, featuring a titanium case. The lineup includes a titanium model with a different dial finish, and an 18K yellow gold model. Incidentally, the case thickness has increased slightly.

Cal.BVF100

A model of the newly developed Cal.BVF100 movement. Compared to Cal.BVL138, a closer look reveals differences in the shape of the balance bridge and screws. I would have liked to see the dial wheel side as well, but the mock-up only shows the case back side.

Bvlgari Serpenti

Not only Octo, but also Serpenti and high jewelry watches have released numerous new models.

 Having finished my interview at 18:30 PM, I headed straight to the Panerai cocktail party without a moment's rest. Among the many exhibiting brands, the Panerai booth was particularly eye-catching. Upon entering the booth, which was filled with blue, I saw a huge tank-like structure in the center. This was a replica of a training tank that is still in use today and installed at Le Grazie (La Spezia), Italy, where the Italian Navy's COMSUBIN base (Comando Raggruppamento Subacquei e Incursori) is located!

 The exhibits inside this tank include waterproof testers from various eras, as well as original timepieces alongside new models, creating a space where visitors can enjoy a journey through time.

Panerai Watches & Wonders Geneva

The booth design fully reflects their history as a manufacturer of military watches. The booth was so crowded during the cocktail party that I couldn't get a good shot of the whole thing, so I've borrowed some promotional images.

There was live jazz music at the cocktail party, and the venue was buzzing with excitement. If I wasn't working, I would have drunk tons of champagne...!

 After that, I went to the IWC booth to photograph their new watches. Every media outlet was busy taking pictures, and it was difficult to get the models I wanted to photograph, so I waited and took pictures while drinking champagne until 22 PM (because I was offered it...you know?).

IWC's booth this year is themed around "space" and "The Little Prince."

IWC Perpetual Calendar

This is a mock-up of the movement used in the "Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Proset," which allows you to adjust the date forward or backward with a single crown. I'll ask Hirota about the detailed mechanism!

IWC Pilot's Watch Venturer Vertical Drive

This "Pilot's Watch Venturer Vertical Drive" is so popular that it's hard to get your hands on one...! It doesn't have a crown; instead, you can adjust the home time, local time, and wind the mainspring by using the push buttons on the case and rotating the bezel. The bezel is a little stiff.

 I left Palexpo a little after 10pm. It had been a whirlwind day... There were no more shuttle buses, and I was a little scared to walk home down the dark streets, so I took a taxi to Cornavin. It took about 20 minutes and cost around 30 Swiss francs, or 6000 yen. For comparison, if I take a taxi home from Hanzomon, where the Chronos Japan editorial office is located, after working late into the night (ahem), it takes about 40 minutes and costs around 7000 yen.

 I didn't get back to the hotel in Annemouth until after 23 PM. I slept like a log, feeling apprehensive about how busy I'd been from the very first day.



▼Continue reading here!▼

[Geneva Diary Day 2] I wandered into the world of Ghibli, but was brought back to reality, and saw masterpieces at TAG Heuer and Van Cleef & Arpels.

FEATURES


[O(taku)'s Narrow Path] Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 Diary Day 3 "I've been looking at the clock so much, my head's starting to get all messed up."

FEATURES

[O(taku)'s Narrow Road] Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 Diary Day 2: Covering 8 brands including Zenith and A. Lange & Söhne

FEATURES

[O(taku)'s Narrow Road] Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 Diary Day 1 From Bvlgari to Cartier via Heuer, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Grand Seiko

FEATURES