Released in 2024, the "BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic" is the first BR 05 model to feature a ceramic case. While retaining the sophisticated form of the BR 05 belonging to the Urban Collection, the exterior is unified in black. Its appearance differs from the conventional BR 05, which uses stainless steel or gold, giving it a sophisticated urban feel, while also conveying a sharp atmosphere that is reminiscent of the Aviation Collection, which is inspired by cockpit instruments.
Photographs & Text by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published on January 24, 2026]
A black ceramic model joins the urban-style BR 05 lineup.
The BR 05 debuted in 2019. While adhering to the "circle within a square" design code, the case's four corners were cut off, and the bracelet was integrated, transforming Bell & Ross timepieces, which had previously had a strong, massive impression, into something with a more urban look. This was during the peak of the luxury sports watch boom. In this context, Bell & Ross managed to ride the wave of the times without deviating from its iconic design. I, too, who fell in love with Bell & Ross's design and purchased the "BR 03-94," and have since been captivated by the design work of Creative Director Bruno Belamich, remember praising it with a "That's amazing!"
Subsequently, the BR 05 collection expanded by adding chronograph and skeleton models, and in 2024, it released three models using ceramics as the exterior material. One of these was the "BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic," which was released in two versions: one with a black ceramic bracelet and another with a rubber strap.
Automatic movement (BR-CAL.322). 25 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 54 hours. Ceramic case (41mm width, 11.2mm thickness). 100m water resistance. 1,320,000 yen (tax included).
The understated skeleton design makes a good impression.
The first thing that caught my eye when I held the actual watch in my hands was the processing and finishing of the ceramic case. Many brands now use ceramic as an exterior material, but Bell & Ross has also elevated the BR 05 into an even more attractive timepiece thanks to the processing techniques that they have refined since the "BR 01 Ceramic" in 2011. While the BR 01 and BR 03 mainly feature a satin finish, the BR 05 has a satin finish on the top surface and a polished finish on the bezel and the beveled edges of the case. When light hits it, the polished surface shines, giving it a strong presence despite being all black.
Another distinctive feature is the skeleton dial, which is designed to complement the all-black exterior. While most skeleton designs (naturally) clearly display the movement's structure, this model doesn't particularly emphasize the movement's presence, instead integrating it as part of the design to create a sense of unity with the bezel and case. The way the movement peeks out from behind the dial is like a geometric pattern drawn in three dimensions. To be honest, as someone who isn't particularly fond of skeleton designs, I found this presentation quite appealing.
A "definite weight" befitting a full-black model.
The case width is 41mm. The basic BR 05 is 40mm, and the BR 03 is 42mm (which feels considerably larger than the round 42mm model), so this size is right in between. Smaller models are popular these days, but even so, it doesn't feel particularly large, and it was just the right size for me, with my slender wrist. This is largely due to the streamlined design with the corners of the case cut off.
On the other hand, despite having a ceramic case, my honest impression is that it's "not as light as I expected." Of course, it doesn't have the heavy weight of a stainless steel case (the BR 03 steel model is quite heavy), but when you put it on your wrist, it has a "definite presence." What's particularly noteworthy is the wearing comfort. The model with the rubber strap that I tried out this time has a high degree of snugness, and perhaps because the weight of the watch itself is distributed, it can be worn comfortably for long periods of time. It's a watch that is suitable for everyday use, befitting a collection that boasts an "urban" theme.
Made from black ceramics, this model combines the best features of both the BR 03 and BR 05.
I've handled the BR 05 many times before, but this was the first time I'd tried it out for over a week. What struck me again was that, while it follows Bell & Ross's design codes, its form and fit are completely different from the BR 03. Both the BR 03 and BR 05 have their own charms, but I realized that the BR 05, as advertised as the "Urban Collection," is a watch particularly well-suited for wearing in the city. Moreover, the use of black ceramic in this model gives it a completely different feel from the stainless steel and gold BR 05. With its lustrous finish thanks to meticulous craftsmanship, and a sharp look thanks to its all-black exterior—in other words, the fact that it combines the best features of both the BR 05 and BR 03 is perhaps its greatest appeal.
